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Old 12-22-2008, 07:22 PM
  #436  
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Originally Posted by Crashby
We raced today and I TQ'd by two laps!!! I had a four second lead in the main with less than a minute to go and was lapping the fourth place car for the second time when he punted me off of the back straight and back onto the infield behind the second place car. Even with that I almost caught him for the win. You will be very happy with the car.
Fastest race lap in that race was by an OD12 !
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Old 12-22-2008, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jrrc
Fastest race lap in that race was by an OD12 !
And the 2nd Fastest lap was by a Rev 5.

I will say after seeing Steve 120 on the carpet it does look good and Steve seams to drive it well right out of the box.
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Old 12-22-2008, 08:19 PM
  #438  
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Originally Posted by jrrc
Fastest race lap in that race was by an OD12 !
But the fastest lap of the day was by a S120 9.012. Oh, and least we forget the S120 was TQ by two laps!!!
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:34 AM
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It has been a long time since I played with and electric car but I built an S120 and must say the quality of the car is very good and there are a lot of nice features on the car. The one qustion I have is where do you find a the small button head screw for the t-plate with out the countersunk holes?
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:11 PM
  #440  
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Originally Posted by C Verano
It has been a long time since I played with and electric car but I built an S120 and must say the quality of the car is very good and there are a lot of nice features on the car. The one qustion I have is where do you find a the small button head screw for the t-plate with out the countersunk holes?
Glad you like it. We are getting info about this from the factory. It's a 2.2x6mm button head screw. We are getting part number and info ASAP to send to dealers and customers
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:13 PM
  #441  
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Originally Posted by Crashby
The first thing I did to try and fix the problem was put 1/8th balls in the diff. While that helped a little, it still binds up and when you take the diff apart, you can see galling on the back side of the orange aluminum cup where the thrust bearing race is rubbing. I think the aluminum cup is not deep enough and it is bottoming out on the end of the graphite part of the axle. I did try and remove a little of that part of the axle and, again, while it did make it a little better, it still binds. I thought maybe when the hole was drilled in the end of the axle for the set screw, that it expanded the graphite and is causing the cup to bind. I sanded down a little of the graphite and that also made it a little better but it's not perfect. I think it's a combination of a lot of tight tolerance issues. I will keep working on it.

Don't get me wrong. I love this car!! As with any fine piece of racing hardware, it takes a little massaging to make it perfect.
Crashby, appreciate your positive and constructive feedback. As you mention, we are working everyday to make it better
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:14 PM
  #442  
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Originally Posted by C Verano
It has been a long time since I played with and electric car but I built an S120 and must say the quality of the car is very good and there are a lot of nice features on the car. The one qustion I have is where do you find a the small button head screw for the t-plate with out the countersunk holes?
I use these guy's a lot and I think they are located in SoCal.

http://www.fastener-express.com/inde...arch=GO&Page=1
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:14 PM
  #443  
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Originally Posted by C Verano
It has been a long time since I played with and electric car but I built an S120 and must say the quality of the car is very good and there are a lot of nice features on the car. The one qustion I have is where do you find a the small button head screw for the t-plate with out the countersunk holes?
hey chris, I just used an associated pivot ball setup with the asc plastics, the aluminum ball and their countersunk screws.. you just have to cut off two of the tabs. Glad you like the car. and with the associated pivot balls and the 2.15mm Tbar you don't use the little roll center shims under the balls.. just in the front on the stationary mount. The associated setup is a fair bit smoother with no play.
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:14 PM
  #444  
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Originally Posted by tpczx6
And the 2nd Fastest lap was by a Rev 5.

I will say after seeing Steve 120 on the carpet it does look good and Steve seams to drive it well right out of the box.
Thanks for the feedback tpczx6, have a great holidays
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:16 PM
  #445  
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Originally Posted by John_S
After switching to the 2mm t bar i havent really broken anything other than a front body post, and thats running mod and 10.5. I am using the countersunk t bars and although i broke my original thick t bar over the rear pivot and i do see the weakness i dont think its as bad as you are making out. Also to note that i had no build defects or axles falling apart in my kit
John_S, thanks for the feedback and happy to hear your report
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:18 PM
  #446  
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Originally Posted by Julius
Did you use the kit supplied balls for the diff?
If so I'm 99% sure your problem is not with the thrust bearing.

Use 1/8th balls and the diff should work perfectly. We've had some issues withthe thread running out prior to setting the correct tension. But I've not seen or hear anything being wrong with the thrust bearing setup.
Julius, thanks for your support and help in this thread. You have a wonderful Xmas time
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Old 12-23-2008, 01:11 PM
  #447  
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Serpentamerica!!!! How long does it take for you guys to repling on info email???
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Old 12-23-2008, 01:19 PM
  #448  
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Thanks for the help guys..
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Old 12-23-2008, 01:41 PM
  #449  
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Originally Posted by Geezatec
Serpentamerica!!!! How long does it take for you guys to repling on info email???
Hi Geezatec, it does not take that long, normally same day or the day after if comes after business hours. I am sorry, maybe we miss your e-mail. I will check immediately. Can i please have your name or the name that appears on the email?

Thanks
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Old 12-23-2008, 01:46 PM
  #450  
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Sorry double post
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