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-   -   Team Magic E4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/204165-team-magic-e4-thread.html)

Jochim_18 03-30-2011 10:53 AM

The new E4 RS 11' are basically the same us the 09' version just some minor changes... I would wait till yodog finish the final design on the chassis it will be sweet..

buffalobill989 03-30-2011 02:30 PM

not a carpet track for 4 hours around me. man i sure miss diving my sedan:cry:

Willin 03-30-2011 03:10 PM

I had an rs and loved it! I regret selling it. I'm getting an fs tomorrow and can't wait to run it! I've been looking through this thread and it has some awesome info on the cars! I can't wait to get some '11 cars! I wish alot more people would give these cars a chance! There purely awesome in my opinion!

Jochim_18 03-30-2011 03:42 PM

A lot of guys just don't give the car a chance. The only downside is car is not as free as 2 belt driven car.. But who care I like running mine on MOD...

RC Infos 03-30-2011 10:51 PM


Originally Posted by Jochim_18 (Post 8887319)
The new E4 RS 11' are basically the same us the 09' version just some minor changes... I would wait till yodog finish the final design on the chassis it will be sweet..

39 modifications, including totally new flex design and possibilities aren't minor changes ;)

RC Infos 03-30-2011 10:51 PM

More news soon. We are testing many solutions.

Jochim_18 03-30-2011 10:55 PM

Any more pics... I'm hoping you made an independent suspension as one of the modification..

Evoracer 03-31-2011 04:55 AM


Originally Posted by RC Infos (Post 8890681)
39 modifications, including totally new flex design and possibilities aren't minor changes ;)

I thought I saw reference to quite a few changes. Some that aren't easily seen. Looking forward to it.

I don't know about anyone else but if the E4 isn't as "free" as 2 belt cars, it doesn't seem to make any difference going around the track. I race 25.5 and 21.5 classes and temps are always great so there's no drag issues. The great handling helps make each lap as smooth as possible. Smooth is fast as they say. :D

RC Infos 04-01-2011 07:10 AM


Originally Posted by Jochim_18 (Post 8890700)
Any more pics... I'm hoping you made an independent suspension as one of the modification..

Hello

What do you mean exactly about independent suspension ?

This is a point that works nice on my cars (original / own prototype / factory prototype). The only I thing I personnally modified on the suspensions is the roll center. To update it, we changed the rear uprights and front/rear upper bulkheads, and we use spacers under arm holders / pivot ball to fine tune it.

I also modified the rear shock tower, to use "normal" springs with a correct ride height.

The most important modifications are central / front flex (chassis, upper deck), rear flex (motor mount, opposite axle mount, motor position), lipo fitting, steering turnbuckle's position (roll center/bump steer), weight distribution (motor position, servo position).

The major modifications aren't impressive to see, this is not a radical change of layout, but they are made to drastically improve the car handling and performances. This is months of works (since end may 2010).

;) I'm happy with the majority of these modifications, and we have to validate some other soon.

Pro10noob 04-01-2011 07:27 AM

Pic's or it didn't happen:D:lol:;)

I find my TM E4RS08 rather planted at the moment.
I now have the luxery that i need to find more steering in my car.
Working on that one tho:D:D.
Have 2 TC i am driving with but for the moment my "other" TC is faster in a single lap(by 2 tenth) but overall the TM is faster driving it for say 25 to 30 laps(about 2 tenth).
Both run the same setup ESC/motor wise and gearing is almost the same.
Need to figure out if upgrading to the E4RS11 is worth spending the money or just stay with the E4RS08 as i have a rather "special" one.


regards Roy



Originally Posted by RC Infos (Post 8897468)
Hello

What do you mean exactly about independent suspension ?

This is a point that works nice on my cars (original / own prototype / factory prototype). The only I thing I personnally modified on the suspensions is the roll center. To update it, we changed the rear uprights and front/rear upper bulkheads, and we use spacers under arm holders / pivot ball to fine tune it.

I also modified the rear shock tower, to use "normal" springs with a correct ride height.

The most important modifications are central / front flex (chassis, upper deck), rear flex (motor mount, opposite axle mount, motor position), lipo fitting, steering turnbuckle's position (roll center/bump steer), weight distribution (motor position, servo position).

The major modifications aren't impressive to see, this is not a radical change of layout, but they are made to drastically improve the car handling and performances. This is months of works (since end may 2010).

;) I'm happy with the majority of these modifications, and we have to validate some other soon.


Jochim_18 04-01-2011 10:36 AM

I'm talking about fully independent suspension without the the RF and FR suspension mount attach to the bulkheads... This should give the car a little flex on both front and rear..

RC Infos 04-03-2011 04:45 AM


Originally Posted by Jochim_18 (Post 8898266)
I'm talking about fully independent suspension without the the RF and FR suspension mount attach to the bulkheads... This should give the car a little flex on both front and rear..

OK I see.

My RF and FR suspension mounts aren't screwed anymore to the bulkhead since my second day of running with the E4RS.

This is a thing that every E4RS driver can do himself. On my cars, I place the M3x6mm screws to join the RF and FR suspension mounts inside the bulkhead, not outside. So, the suspension mounts are totally free to move up/down, the screw is only a "guide" for them. It's a great difference on the rear, where flex is more better this way. I also use plastic rear bulkheads when I need more flex.

---
To obtain more corner speed, I usually work on the roll center (you can try the upper hole on the rear uprights, with 1mm shim under the RF and RR suspension mounts, it works very good). For stock spec categories (10.5 / 13.5), I usually run without anti roll bars, with Kfactory 25 or 26 springs on the front, and 26 or 27 on the rear.

Bumpsteer is also very important. I use a minimum of 13mm spacers between front steering block and pivot ball.

Jochim_18 04-03-2011 04:53 PM

I'll try that thank for tips..

YR4Dude 04-22-2011 09:10 PM

Found my steering problem
 
I've been having a problem with the E4JS having too much steering such that it handled erratically. Did everything possible to reduce steering such as stiffer springs, reduced front droop and radio dual rate reduction and it still didn't help.:mad:

I gave up on it and went with my XRay and it too had the same problem except not as bad. Looked at the XRay manual to check set up and found that it had little to no ackerman. Changed it and problem was solved. Looked at the E4JS and it had the same problem. The steering pivot was on the front hole instead of the rear hole. Had I known to change that it would have saved me a bunch of frustration.

Still looking forward to Yodog's chassis conversion. This thread hasn't been bumped in almost a month.

RC Infos 04-22-2011 10:18 PM

Hello

You can try to add 0.5 or 1mm spacer under the FF and FR arm holder.

You also can add shims under the inner upper turnbuckle's balls

You could also check if the problem is not on the rear... if you have too low rear grip, you can think you have too much front grip.

;)


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