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I noticed when somebody pointed out to me how much slop there is in the tire to axle. Quite a bit of play there.
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That isn't just due to the axle but also in the rear bearing hubs and the front steeringblocks.
I used the Wolf hobbies rear hubs and the red alloy steeringblocks and the play is almost gone. Also i won't have to use the spacers that are normally on the inside of the axle at the CVD's cheers Roy
Originally Posted by vinny73
(Post 6883529)
I noticed when somebody pointed out to me how much slop there is in the tire to axle. Quite a bit of play there.
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Originally Posted by 05forfun
(Post 6881931)
I didn't touch anything since the car out the factory box. Anyway, appreciate your advice, will try it for sure:nod:
Pre-assembled kit does not mean it is ready to RACE...far from it. When I first get the kit, I actually disassemble the whole kit and rebuild it per my way to build RC car. Kinda wish they didn't build the car at the beginning. I am sure the person who pre-build the car is NOT a RC racer, with $5 an hour pay and need to build 10 E4RS within 1 hour...:sneaky: |
Originally Posted by vinny73
(Post 6882718)
I just got the car and only have the experience of driving a TC3 to compare to. But my understanding that the new shocks they have on the latest e4rs are pretty good. I just got the springs so we shall see this sunday how well they work. They'll probably work pretty good for a rookie driver but my understanding of how the car should work and what changes to start with if there are problems is pretty good.
I did order replacement rear and front arms for it and the ones I got from wolf are not like the ones I have on my car. the ones on my car have a metal shaft that runs the length of them . It's like it was molded in the plastic. I don't know why they sent me those. But they sure are lighter. But am afraid they won't be as durable. See, I have a tendency to hit stuff. As my buddies say, I'm still in driving school. I need to learn to drive in the center of the track 1st then learn to cut corners. Thanks for the info, we have a schumacher sponsored driver at our track and I can pick his brain on what he uses. Vinny |
Looking for Lipo batteries that fits my E4RS 09 with out modifications!
What are you using? |
Posted earlier...
Originally Posted by Isaac
(Post 6740939)
These fit. They are the same as other lipo packs as there are only so many companies making these packs. Everyone just puts on their own sticker.
http://www.promatchracing.com/prodim...000LipoNEW.jpg ...and these fit... http://store.hkshobby.com/product_th...pg&w=550&h=329 |
Intelect 5000mah, 3800mah also, both are the same size
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...02-b1_0331.jpg
I Have that one and its to big! http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/ima...P-2S-large.jpg And that one to but itīs even bigger!:mad: |
That might work in the first picture.
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Nope itīs the little to big!
I hits the silver thing that holds the two bearings on the longs belt. |
Does this fix my problems?
WH10101 Steel E4 Battery Tray |
From what I understand from "wyd" on this thread is that the tray you speak of is better for packs that have round corners. He had to mill his out to get some packs to fit. Orion packs are rounded and some others just come to a point/corner.
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If possible, pick the lipo packs that use bullet plugs instead of wires coming out with deans plug...this is only if you are using E4 series TC car.
I am still using my 3 years old Orion carbon 3600 and 3800 running on 17.5 and 13.5 classes and on FOAMS. No run time issue. I just don't believe in these C rating thingy. |
Yea I don't believe the C rate thing either. Biggest concern is Mah for me.
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Originally Posted by Isaac
(Post 6890576)
From what I understand from "wyd" on this thread is that the tray you speak of is better for packs that have round corners. He had to mill his out to get some packs to fit. Orion packs are rounded and some others just come to a point/corner.
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