Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

The LRP motors fit like a glove in there.
Almost all motors with a tampered rear end will fit perfectly.
For th GM you need to remove a little bit of the side tensioner at the motor side.
For the rest i don't know.

cheers Roy

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

I wanted to try the LRP motors. Thanks for the info!

RyeRey521

iTrader: (21)

Thanks Isaac and JS... Guess I don't need to worry about that... What I'll be getting from you is the older version of the car right? Have you already made changes to fit larger motors? Or what motors were you running? Thanks... If Drew and the guys make fun of the cars I'll tell them they were yours and that should shut them up right lol?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!

wyd

iTrader: (51)

When I ran at Frederick when you seen my car run I had the FS arms and had no problems getting the proper ride height with rubber tires. Worked out great for me.

Can't wait ti hearhow your car worked for you after you get a chance to run it.

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

I actually might try the FS arms at some point. The car would be a tank yet still light. I'm thinking the associated spring carriers as the sit lower.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

With the short Tamiya springs and the stock FS arms the car was at 5mm ride height but I could easily run lower if I wanted to. I suggest running the car in stock form til you see how it is. Once you get it dialed in and you feel comfortable then I would try the RS arms and see what it gives you.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Both of my cars(in and outdoor) have FS arms and are on rubber tires and i had no probs with getting it low enough.

cheers Roy

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

Ok. I get it.

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

I just picked up the E4RS 09 with the wolf hobbies steel battery tray. Can someone tell me the max dimensions that will fit in the battery tray without adding spacers? I don't see it written anywhere's in my manual. Thank you, Vinny

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

I have already read a grip of the 183 pages of this thread. I will be the only one at my local tracks running a team magic car. I really wanna kick their butt. I need to learn to drive better but, well, I still wanna roost them. I am now running a TC3. Please, don't tell me what I allready know!!! Old, worn out, blah blah blah. I'm new and wanted to get something cheap to start. I wanted a new car and this is the one I picked. What is a good body to use for this car? What works? I use a mazda speed 6 body now. But my new car needs a new body. Was looking at the "?Mazda R9?" Kinda like the 6 but a little different. I like it a little bit better than the 6. But only for looks. Can you please give my your opinion or ideas of what works good for this particular car. Thanks, Vinny

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

Oh yeah. I will be running outdoors. Medium traction asphalt. Small track. 5 to 6 minute heats. Track is sometimes technical. Thanks, Vinny. Also, running 17.5

GCT69

iTrader: (10)

somebody told me that the arms of the e4's are really weak? please enlighten. I currently drive a tamiya and looking at wolf's price I might be leaning in getting one, anyways, ever since I bought my tamiya ( bout a year ago )I have only broken 1 front arm, and two spindles and 1 c hub. And I do hit the boards in almost every race.

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

Mazda R9 has BIG steering and unless you are ready for that I would stay away from it. Even the pro don't run that body. LTC or the Mazda. I have the Mazda and it's fine. The car changes direction like no other chassis I have ever owned.

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

I ran today and had one good hit and the arms are fine. ALL arms break no matter the chassis. I saw the "X" car today in shambles after a hit and seen others too.