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The LRP motors fit like a glove in there.
Almost all motors with a tampered rear end will fit perfectly. For th GM you need to remove a little bit of the side tensioner at the motor side. For the rest i don't know. cheers Roy
Originally Posted by iPearl
(Post 6697286)
Which BL motors fit the non 09 E4RS ?
Novak Velocity 6.5 Brushless So far this is the only one that fits mines. Non of the Speed Passion 1st gen Motors fit mines. And also what ESC dont hang of to the side Besides Tekin RS series ? |
I wanted to try the LRP motors. Thanks for the info!
Originally Posted by Pro10noob
(Post 6697346)
The LRP motors fit like a glove in there.
Almost all motors with a tampered rear end will fit perfectly. cheers Roy |
Thanks Isaac and JS... Guess I don't need to worry about that... What I'll be getting from you is the older version of the car right? Have you already made changes to fit larger motors? Or what motors were you running? Thanks... If Drew and the guys make fun of the cars I'll tell them they were yours and that should shut them up right lol?
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob
(Post 6693304)
Hey Wyd,
Look at my sig:D:D Can't stay away from the E4FS. 1 for indoor,1 for outdoor and a E4RS just for fun. Love the car. Easy to set up and no suprices in the corners due to the great balance. I thing i don't like about the car tho,and that is have to ad weights to it to get it op to 1350grams for the lipo class:D:D:D:lol: cheers Roy |
Originally Posted by Isaac
(Post 6696839)
The foam FS arms do not help with the correct ride height with rubber tires. The rs arms lower the car for the correct ride with rubber tires. Doesn't matter if it's carpet or asphalt if you are running rubber tires you want the rs arms. Unless you use short springs with the foam arms. The foam arms are for the extremely low profiles of foam tires to get the correct ride height.
Can't wait ti hearhow your car worked for you after you get a chance to run it. |
I actually might try the FS arms at some point. The car would be a tank yet still light. I'm thinking the associated spring carriers as the sit lower.
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Originally Posted by Isaac
(Post 6701449)
I actually might try the FS arms at some point. The car would be a tank yet still light. I'm thinking the associated spring carriers as the sit lower.
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Both of my cars(in and outdoor) have FS arms and are on rubber tires and i had no probs with getting it low enough.
cheers Roy
Originally Posted by Isaac
(Post 6701449)
I actually might try the FS arms at some point. The car would be a tank yet still light. I'm thinking the associated spring carriers as the sit lower.
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Ok. I get it.
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E4RS
I just picked up the E4RS 09 with the wolf hobbies steel battery tray. Can someone tell me the max dimensions that will fit in the battery tray without adding spacers? I don't see it written anywhere's in my manual. Thank you, Vinny
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Body.
I have already read a grip of the 183 pages of this thread. I will be the only one at my local tracks running a team magic car. I really wanna kick their butt. I need to learn to drive better but, well, I still wanna roost them. I am now running a TC3. Please, don't tell me what I allready know!!! Old, worn out, blah blah blah. I'm new and wanted to get something cheap to start. I wanted a new car and this is the one I picked. What is a good body to use for this car? What works? I use a mazda speed 6 body now. But my new car needs a new body. Was looking at the "?Mazda R9?" Kinda like the 6 but a little different. I like it a little bit better than the 6. But only for looks. Can you please give my your opinion or ideas of what works good for this particular car. Thanks, Vinny
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Oh yeah. I will be running outdoors. Medium traction asphalt. Small track. 5 to 6 minute heats. Track is sometimes technical. Thanks, Vinny. Also, running 17.5
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somebody told me that the arms of the e4's are really weak? please enlighten. I currently drive a tamiya and looking at wolf's price I might be leaning in getting one, anyways, ever since I bought my tamiya ( bout a year ago )I have only broken 1 front arm, and two spindles and 1 c hub. And I do hit the boards in almost every race.
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Mazda R9 has BIG steering and unless you are ready for that I would stay away from it. Even the pro don't run that body. LTC or the Mazda. I have the Mazda and it's fine. The car changes direction like no other chassis I have ever owned.
Originally Posted by vinny73
(Post 6708245)
I have already read a grip of the 183 pages of this thread. I will be the only one at my local tracks running a team magic car. I really wanna kick their butt. I need to learn to drive better but, well, I still wanna roost them. I am now running a TC3. Please, don't tell me what I allready know!!! Old, worn out, blah blah blah. I'm new and wanted to get something cheap to start. I wanted a new car and this is the one I picked. What is a good body to use for this car? What works? I use a mazda speed 6 body now. But my new car needs a new body. Was looking at the "?Mazda R9?" Kinda like the 6 but a little different. I like it a little bit better than the 6. But only for looks. Can you please give my your opinion or ideas of what works good for this particular car. Thanks, Vinny
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I ran today and had one good hit and the arms are fine. ALL arms break no matter the chassis. I saw the "X" car today in shambles after a hit and seen others too.
Originally Posted by GCT69
(Post 6709841)
somebody told me that the arms of the e4's are really weak? please enlighten. I currently drive a tamiya and looking at wolf's price I might be leaning in getting one, anyways, ever since I bought my tamiya ( bout a year ago )I have only broken 1 front arm, and two spindles and 1 c hub. And I do hit the boards in almost every race.
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