Yes, it is a good car, hope you like it:nod: Are you going to run brushed or brushless? if brushless, no many choices you have for motor mounting space, I can only use LRP and Novak to have more space for adjustment, if you are gonna run brushed, then it doesn't matter what kind. Make sure you check every screw is properly tight and in place, mine got one missing screw when it arroved

Thanks ! I'll be running BL 17.5 Novak. Car was bought used although it's in perfect shape. I need a manual though so I may not try to run it until after I get one. Great looking car though and If I like this one I'll probably get the RS soon. In the meantime...time to upgrade things like turnbuckles, sway bars and maybe get the alloy kit from Wolf Hobbies. Just want to add stuff that's reasonable and may make it stronger or perform better. Really like this version though. Love the way the battery goes in and my Zippy hard packs fit great with easy access to the plugs.

I don't know if upgrade is necessary for E4JS. I have both E4RS and E4JS, I built them at the same time and always run both at the track. They have been on the track for more than 10 times and hit the wall pretty bad few times, but I didn't break anything. So it looks to me JS is as strong as RS. I would say the only major difference is one is plastic tub chassis another is carbon fiber, so JS will twist a little more than RS in corners. One thing I will try to improve is the sloppy feeling on both front and rear suspension linkage as well as steering linkage. I also noticed that JS has a little longer wheel base than RS by about 1.5 mm.

Yes...quality of car is very good but I definitely want to upgrade turnbuckles. The small stock units are not to my liking. Many of my Tamiya cars had the same and they were very difficult to use soooo....I will be looking to get pieces with larger head area. The sway bars are just a tuning aid and the alloy.....a little bling never hurts ! :D

About the motor clearance, you can also use Team Orion Vortex Race BL motor.
The previous Orion Vortex (Feigao) is a bit longer so trouble may appear but the current and latest version is fine.

Slide

the new novak balistic fits the best

For E4RS or E4JS??

For the RS'09, the Orion fits perfectly. Enough room to adjust any current modified ratio.

This aside, check out the News page from TEAM MAGIC, they talk about the article posted on RCBlood.com few days ago. Right here.

Cheers
Slide

We have posted this before but as a reminder: If the total number of teeth on your pinion and spur add up to 140 -150 then the motor will be in the middle of its adjustment range. This leave plenty of room for making track and condition adusments

I have the E4JS. I'm looking for front arms that are stiffer than the ones I got are the ones for the FS made of a stiffer material? I'm trying to eliminate front end slop. Already shimmed the suspension as much as possible and updated to the alum. 3deg carriers.

I'm using the Losi Xcelorin on my JS. The problem is the rear motor pod stiffener not clearing the motor's endbell. So just about any BL with a square corner endbell won't fit. The Xcelorin and the Novak has a taper on the end that allows you to squeaze it past the stiffener. However looking at the new Novak Ballistic series motors, they look to have a shorter endbell that probably will clear the stiffener better.

There's nothing wrong with the stock turnbuckles, they work fine for me. They may look a bit cheap but it does the job. If you want a worthwhile upgrade get this: http://www.wolfhobbies.com/product.c...7&product=8351

Don't bother with the other alum. bulkhead pieces because they're not necessary, the chassis is stiff enough for what it is. Any more than that, then you might as well get the '09 RS.

Hi,

I need some help. I´m driving the E4RS08(13.5T) on carpet with very low grip-level, so the rear of my car is very loose.

Can you give me some advice to resolve the problem? I have made the rear a little bit softer, but it does not really work.

Check the side wall of your tire and make sure they are all GLUE up...

More rear toe in (I use -3* sometimes)

Less droop on the rear

More camber on rear (-2*)

This one is odd but I recently had experience...make sure you are not putting too much drag braking on your speedo. I had mine set on 50% and when I let go on throttle, it give me enough brake that gave my car the fish tail...reset it back to 35%~40% problem solved.

Try the TM springs and then purple front and the pinkish at the rear for indoor.
Lots of tracktion and no roll if you use the front swaybar(no rear swaybar).
I use Tamiya 400 oil in the shocks front and rear with standard pistons in the shocks,epa steering at 65% and sorex 28 front and sorex 24 at the rear.
If you can use it prepair your tire with tracktion fluid on the rear complete and at the front just the inside part of the tire and i also use tire warmers when permitted.
Camber rear at 3 degrees and front at 1.5 degrees.
Rear turnbuckles on the inside position on the hubs and 2 spacer rings on the bulkhead side to get them horizontal.
Shocks rear at them most inside position at the top and front on the outside.
Toe in rear at 2.5 and front neutral
This all will get you more grip on the rear.
I also run a 13.5 GM with lipo and it isn't loose.

cheers Roy