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Originally Posted by Solara
(Post 6553745)
Thanks for all the help....found out, it is the SIDE BELT. Even my belt tensioner on the side is WAY down already. Ended up using a bigger bearings so the side belt can be push down(tighten) a little more...
The side belt need to be a tad SHORTER...or I have to use the FOAM side pulley instead and get my final drive all screw up...LOL. Beside the belt skipping....my E4RS is only OK (1st ever running on carpet after the full summer on outdoor). Using Boost 17.5 with the TEKIN PRO...car is SLOW...turn like a BOAT, very slow and retard on turning. So I am going to use 40 oils, Tamiya blue springs, .5mm sway front and rear and STOP the car rolling like a boat...that roll causes me at least 1~1.5 second per lap. I am using Tamiya Blue shocks with AE TC5 lower shock cap with regular lenght springs. I really like this setup on the E4, at least, on outdoor, it is gold. Also...6.0 final drive, it is NUTS, anything higher (like 5.9 and smaller), car is SUPER SLOW...I really don't like these speedo software technology, totally screw up all the final drive setup from the old time...anyone run RCGT or Stock on E4RS on carpet? Or with TEKIN speedo with 200 software? |
Hi there,
A E4RS'09 review has been post on a Thai RC website (text in both thai and english). This way ! Enjoy. Slide |
Originally Posted by Wolf Hobbies
(Post 6559990)
We understand that people like to use a certain brand of spring (we used associated springs back when we were running Losis and Schumachers) but we do standardize on the TM springs for our published setup sheets. We have also found that the pink and purple springs (in different combinations) are great for just about any condition on asphalt or carpet. Our stanrd setup for new E4XX drivers is pink in the front and purple in the rear.
Thanks |
The pink spring is P/N 502137 and the purple spring is P/N 502138. These are 11 and 16.4 lb respecively. Whenever I show up at a new track or am having trouble with a required spec tire I always use these as a "good foundation" It makes the car very stable and predictable. FYI: the stock silver springs are 10 lbs.
We have some new items on our web site. It is a set of burgundy (same as the limited edition cars) anodized bulkheads. P/N WH18110 is all the bulkheads. WH18111 is all the bulkheads plus the toe in blocks at both ends of the chassis. This is a great way to "tune up" a car if you have any bent bulkheads or if you have an E4JS or E4JR it is a great upgrade over the plastic bulkheads. Of course the real reason for this is that it makes the car look awesome!! The kits cost less than the price of 2 plain bulkheads. These are in stock and ready to ship but are limited supply. |
E4FS for sale
Hi all TM E4 fans! i have a NIB E4FS for sale...$250 shipped to anywhere in US. $300 shipped to overseas. I bought new from Wolf hobbies, but now i don't plan on running this car. it's never been ran, NEW in BOX!:nod:
anyone interested can e-mail me at [email protected] |
Originally Posted by wyd
(Post 6555276)
If you go with the HPI side belt you won't need so much tension and it won't stretch as much as the stock TM ones. I forget the part number but its easy to find in thei thread. I think it is A748 but just search for HPI belt and you should find it. Great working side belt.
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Originally Posted by Slideaway
(Post 6554608)
I guess there's no miracle to expect with a 17.5, whatever the speedo you use...
Originally Posted by Pro10noob
(Post 6554798)
Hmmmzzzzzzzzz:weird: what am i doing wrong that i can't get my belts to skip??
At the moment i am running LRP SPX stock spec with GM 13.5 and lipo with a FDR of 5.05 indoor and no skipping is present from any belt. Don't use the front belt tensioner and moved the front tensioner bearing to the side to get it more losen up and still no skipping:confused:. Other car is with GM 10.5,GM 90 with 8 into 3 mode and 5 cell and a FDR of 4.54. This car is ran outdoors and for the first time i ripped a front belt but that was due to small debree comming in the front spool poelie. Runs very fast and also no skipping of belts??? @ Solara, try the TM springs and then purple front and the pinkish at the rear for indoor. Lots of tracktion and no roll if you use the front swaybar. I use Tamiya 400 oil in the shocks front and rear with standard pistons in the shocks,epa off steering at 65% and sorex 28 front and sorex 24 at the rear. If you can use it prepair your tire with tracktion fluid on the rear complete and at the front just the inside part of the tire and i also use tire warmers when permitted. You then have tracktion from the beginning till the end:D:D cheers Roy Also, I am using Tamiya Blue shocks, with all the regular springs collection I have from Tamiya, Xray, Schumacher...etc, as long as you are using the TC5 spring lower plate, all the regular springs will work.
Originally Posted by cheehtae
(Post 6560806)
If you don't like the v200 version, try going back to the older version which is 198....
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Novaks new ballistic motors fit perfect in all of the E4's tons of room for sensor wire harness
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Originally Posted by Wolf Hobbies
(Post 6568631)
The pink spring is P/N 502137 and the purple spring is P/N 502138. These are 11 and 16.4 lb respecively. Whenever I show up at a new track or am having trouble with a required spec tire I always use these as a "good foundation" It makes the car very stable and predictable. FYI: the stock silver springs are 10 lbs.
We have some new items on our web site. It is a set of burgundy (same as the limited edition cars) anodized bulkheads. P/N WH18110 is all the bulkheads. WH18111 is all the bulkheads plus the toe in blocks at both ends of the chassis. This is a great way to "tune up" a car if you have any bent bulkheads or if you have an E4JS or E4JR it is a great upgrade over the plastic bulkheads. Of course the real reason for this is that it makes the car look awesome!! The kits cost less than the price of 2 plain bulkheads. These are in stock and ready to ship but are limited supply. it would be awesome if you had a sring rate chart (in LBS)for all TM springs on wolfhobbies website anybody know what TM springs are equal to AE blues and greens ...but shorter in length:D my car is dialed but a little high on ride height |
I guess any brushless motors whose cans are not straight to the end cap (rounded or chamfered) will 100% fit into E4RS. I am using Trinity duo and speedpassion in my E4RS, they don't have chamfered end but still fit and leave enough space for adjustment. My E4JS, on the other hand, only works with Novak and LRP motors cause their cap side is chamfered.
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I used to have AE springs, if I remember correctly, the green is softer than blue, and I guess AE green is probably equivalent to TM green and AE blue is equivalent to TM pink or purple.
Originally Posted by rkhess
(Post 6569487)
it would be awesome if you had a sring rate chart (in LBS)for all TM springs on wolfhobbies website
anybody know what TM springs are equal to AE blues and greens ...but shorter in length:D my car is dialed but a little high on ride height |
Hey All, new to the E4 and looking for setups. Are there good websites, forums, blogs, whatever where people are posting setups that have worked ?Looking for asphalt and concrete track advice. Looking forward to getting this car and I'll be spending some time sifting through this thread. Thanks
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First of all hello to the E4 scene:D
What are you running?? 5 or 6 cells,lipo,what motor? What type of E4 your running??? For starters with 5 cells and 10.5 stock you can try toe in at the rear 2.5 degrees,camber 3 degrees,front camber 1.5 and zero toe in. 400 Tamiya oil in shocks and you can use the stock springs but they are a bit soft at the front. Are you running a spool,one way or diff at the front?? If you have a new car the first thing you have to do is remove all bearings and clean them with alcohol and put some good silicone oil in them or replace them with the K-Factory items. This will free up your drive train a lot. If you drive 5 cells you want to move them to the forward position to give you a balanced car. If you then have to much steer try to move them to the back so you get a bit less steering and more pressure on the back wheels. This all is for tarmac. For concrete i don't have a clue:(:( cheers Roy
Originally Posted by Evoracer
(Post 6573209)
Hey All, new to the E4 and looking for setups. Are there good websites, forums, blogs, whatever where people are posting setups that have worked ?Looking for asphalt and concrete track advice. Looking forward to getting this car and I'll be spending some time sifting through this thread. Thanks
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Originally Posted by Evoracer
(Post 6573209)
Hey All, new to the E4 and looking for setups. Are there good websites, forums, blogs, whatever where people are posting setups that have worked ?Looking for asphalt and concrete track advice. Looking forward to getting this car and I'll be spending some time sifting through this thread. Thanks
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Just got my E4JS in the mail. This may be the basic chassis but WOW. Very light, very nice quality. Gonna try and get her on track tomorrow. Oh crap it's gonna be another late nighter. Could run the car thats already to go but.......NAH !!!!! :D
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