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Originally Posted by wyd
(Post 6226188)
Its indoor asphalt and when alot of races show it has traction as high or higher than carpet. Its fine grain rice asphalt with almost no pores and only one tiny bump on the whole track which is not a problem even for 1/12th scales.
Once I try are new layout this week I might shorten the rear camber link on the rear hub if I need more rotation and possibly another spacer under the ball stud on the hub. Have to try the layout first. Try 3 deg of camber and 4mm of spacer under the inner upper links.;) |
Team Magic E4FS - pretty much two rollers with a bunch of parts. havent seen the parts yet, but was told id pretty much need radio/receiver, servo and batteries. $250. should i do it?
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We can proudly announce that we are as CometRC.com the distributors of TEAM MAGIC, K FACTORY and HARD products within the UK.
www dot cometrc dot com Regards Team Comet |
Originally Posted by cometrc
(Post 6226680)
We can proudly announce that we are as CometRC.com the distributors of TEAM MAGIC, K FACTORY and HARD products within the UK.
www dot cometrc dot com Regards Team Comet |
Originally Posted by John St.Amant
(Post 6226460)
Are you using Jacos?
Try 3 deg of camber and 4mm of spacer under the inner upper links.;) More than likely once the Nats are over I will switch to another tire but for next 2 months or so Jaco it is. |
So, about those E4FS rollers/parts. Is it worth it? Seems parts can only be found in a few places. Makes me worry.
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Originally Posted by marooko
(Post 6227103)
So, about those E4FS rollers/parts. Is it worth it? Seems parts can only be found in a few places. Makes me worry.
A few places overseas carries stuff as well so if I need something that bad I can always order it and have it in two weeks or so. |
Thank you.
My only other concern is that I'm pretty new to RC. My Rustler is my first car. While I was intimidated at first to work on it, I've now taken everything off except the servo and turns out, it was cake. The E4 looks much more intimidating, but I'm assuming it would be just as easy to figure out. What do you think about the complexity of the car? |
Originally Posted by marooko
(Post 6227147)
Thank you.
My only other concern is that I'm pretty new to RC. My Rustler is my first car. While I was intimidated at first to work on it, I've now taken everything off except the servo and turns out, it was cake. The E4 looks much more intimidating, but I'm assuming it would be just as easy to figure out. What do you think about the complexity of the car? Make sure you have a nice clean work area free of clutter. Makes working ont he car alot easier. Do a little at a time then take a break. Keeps you more refreshed alert while working on the car. |
Those seem like really good tips. Sometimes I'll work on my Rustler for over an hour. Cleaning, replacing parts, etc. and it can be tiresome/aggravating. Maybe I'll keep that in mind next time; shorter work times.
Thank you Wyd. To you and the rest of the Castle team: Mad props. Thoroughly enjoying my MM ESC and motor. |
Originally Posted by marooko
(Post 6227301)
Those seem like really good tips. Sometimes I'll work on my Rustler for over an hour. Cleaning, replacing parts, etc. and it can be tiresome/aggravating. Maybe I'll keep that in mind next time; shorter work times.
Thank you Wyd. To you and the rest of the Castle team: Mad props. Thoroughly enjoying my MM ESC and motor. If your new to touring cars in general being in a hurry will get you nothing but problems. Touring cars are a precision type of car and like to be treated as such. Take your time and do things correctly the first time will save you alot oa headaches later. What you get away with doing for lack of better terms "half ass" will not fly with touring cars. Use the six P method: Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance (the 6 P's):lol: You can apply this saying to almost anything. I learned that after being a little older now. Wish I would of applied this alot more when I was in my teens and early 20's.:nod::D |
www.vgmodelbouw.nl sells stuf for TM in Holland
Has a lot in stock and what they don't have they can get in about a week cheers Roy |
I talked to a fellow racer that I knew had a milling machine. He is going to modify my Wolf Battery tray evey so slightly so it will allow for square battery cases like the SMC packs have and about 1mm wide overall. I could do it with a Dremel if I wanted but he can do it alot nicer than I can with the mill. Will have it Friday.
This will allow me more choices in batteries.:D Never a bad thing. |
Originally Posted by wyd
(Post 6231643)
I talked to a fellow racer that I knew had a milling machine. He is going to modify my Wolf Battery tray evey so slightly so it will allow for square battery cases like the SMC packs have and about 1mm wide overall. I could do it with a Dremel if I wanted but he can do it alot nicer than I can with the mill. Will have it Friday.
This will allow me more choices in batteries.:D Never a bad thing. Wyd, 2010 in my country LiPO will be allowed to race. What is your opinion over the wolf aluminum battery tray ?, it allow to not add too much extra weight for LiPO minimum car weight ?. It worth it ? thanks, Pato Concha Southamerica |
Originally Posted by Tabushi
(Post 6231731)
Wyd,
2010 in my country LiPO will be allowed to race. What is your opinion over the wolf aluminum battery tray ?, it allow to not add too much extra weight for LiPO minimum car weight ?. It worth it ? thanks, Pato Concha Southamerica The nice thing with the Wolf battery tray is the extra weight is kept as low as possible on the car so handling is not affected like adding weight in some other places. Keeps all the weight located in the center of the car. |
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