speedemall

iTrader: (60)

I was the same as you back then Tom,My friends and I had mostly Tamiya and Kyosho's back in the 90's as teenagers and we beat the hell out of them never thinking about the detail put into the bodies and just how beautiful they were when finished correctly. We would just build them,paint the bodies, and stick the decals wherever we felt like it and they never came close to looking like their box art LOL. Fast forward to now and I have seen them as works of art for the past 13 yrs and I baby every Tamiya/kyosho I have,unless I have a beater body for it. My cars are all built to stock specs and run electronics from the time period they were produced,only exception would be the batteries as I run lipo in everything. I can't say that I agree with Tamiya/Kyosho being behind the curve at that time though,The optima dominated the race circuit a good bit along side associated/yokomo in its day as did the Lazer and Nitro burns. Tamiya was the company that was behind because they focused mainly on scale realism and very little on performance.Eventually Kyosho stopped focusing on scale and has been all about full race vehicles ever since. I used to own a Tercel too lol. It was my very first car a 1993 DX.

akura2

I didn't get anything....

PM me

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Was thinking about building up the FF01 with a Carbon chassis that Tamiya still sells for the TA02, but the chassis set only comes with an upper plate and the chassis itself.

How do you get the rest of the components such as the battery hold-down pieces?

The FRP Chassis set comes with all those plastic parts you need, and the top plate and the chassis is fiberglass, but is there a way to use the Carbon/Graphite chassis set without having to buy the FRP Chassis set for the plastic pieces?

niznai

You need more than that. You need the little "shims" (they are actually molded plastic parts) that are used under the rear and front transmission cases as well as the side support for the front gearcase, and the steering posts and the steering arms. Basically you need the whole FRP chassis kit plastics. The only other way is for you to make your own bits but am not sure how you'd go about the steering assembly. The rest is not really difficult to make out of FRP and some machined aluminium.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Too bad Tamiya did it that way:

Buy the FRP Chassis kit first -> Then buy our Carbon plates to replace our Fiberglass one

They are really raking in the dough with their hopups...

I just received my PIAA Accord kit!!! Joy!

Before I start building it, I want to throw out this question, is anyone here interested in a NIB FF01 chassis kit minus the body? The sole reason why I bought this darn thing was to get the Honda Accord body. If you're interested, we can talk off-line via PM.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I just thumbed through the instruction booklet and noticed that these things were pre-foam days.

Did you guys stuff your wheel with foams before you mounted the kit tires?

Or did you guys skip the kit tires and bought some after-market ones?

Also, how do you get subsequent rims for it? I'm a bit of a newb with on-road, and don't understand what this offset and no offset deal and also hex sizes...

niznai

The carbon option chassis for the TA02 was a very expensive option in its day (almost the price of an entire kit in Australian shops). Not sure anyone would have bought it if it were even more expensive and packaged with the plastic bits. I think that's why you can still find NIP ones on ebay to this date. I think their idea was to sell the FRP kit and if one was still not happy with that, they could dish out and buy the carbon plates. Not sure it worked though. The car wasn't competitive at any level and to use those expensive plates on asphalt meant just throwing money out the window (they did take away the flex induced in the bottom FRP plate by the steering arms via the posts). For rally cars (the main kit designation for TA01-02 based cars) it made even less sense since the protection afforded by the tub chassis was forfeited. My opinion is that they released it just as a money making exercise in the collector market (or that's where it ended anyway).

Not sure the kit tires are any good in any situation, but I would use foam.

Offset will make your wheels stand out more or less. It has the same effect as adding shims in betweend wheel hexes and wheels. Be careful though as some wheels will rub on the suspension if correct offset is not observed. It's easier to just use wheels with the correct offset and if you want a wider stance add shims as explained above. To reduce offset you could use thinner hexes but I am not sure why you'd want that.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Niznai, so what are the offset for the "VTEC" wheels of the PIAA Accord???

Also, what tires are good for running on a clean asphalt? What about carpet?

I have two local onroad/offroad tracks (I know, lucky me! )

The track that I usually go to has a newly built, carpet on-road

The new track that I discovered a few blocks away has an AWESOME, SUPER CLEAN asphalt...

What should I do with the kit tires? Should I just throw it on fleabay?

EDIT:

Also, where did you guys get those nifty racing seats and driver figurine and all the interior stuff? Does Tamiya sell them?

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

My NIB FF01 is for sale... I just got laid off so I need to reduce the fleet:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ccord-nib.html

PM me or leave me a message on that thread...

MatsNorway

New FF chassie on the way.

from top racing

http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/t-o-p-r...is/#more-27152

niznai

That looks like a converted TC car, a path that has been explored before and experimented with by almost every basher at some stage (intentionally or not - think broken rear driveshafts). The problem with these conversions is that they don't have the symmetrical/centralised weight of a chassis designed to be front wheel drive.

The M05 challenger is interesting too but I don't think it will be allowed in TCS.

The mini 4wd will be a nice addition to the list beside the Genetic, mini Assasin, RS4 mini and others I can't remember. Not sure I ever heard of a club running a class for these cars though.

Still interesting to see these cars. Maybe we get the second coming of the YR-F2.

MatsNorway

The car shoulda had the servo in front, or motor.

or you will never get the power down right?

IFMAR btw has/had a different weight limit for 2WD cars.

2009 rules.
4WD - 1450 grams minimum
2WD - 1350 grams minimum.

Phat-Boy

iTrader: (25)

top fwd tc looks good.

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

saw this and thought now this is devin's place, and ur here already heh.

R

filbert

iTrader: (1)

This car started life out as a losi jrxs. I got it as a basket case and I modified it into a direct drive fwd touring car. I am running it in the silver can class our club has. It has some bugs to work out but it works.