Pro10 Class
01-29-2008, 02:57 PM
#91
I hate to spoil a great thread with my ramblings, ,
I perfer the Idea of 4-cell in the Pro-10 class. This means all my parts including batteries can cross over from 1:10 oval, 1:12 oval and 1:12 pan car.
I am not found of NiMH batteries, but they have served me well. Maybe a the replacement should be a 4-cell sized brick made from LiFePO4 cells when the technology comes around.
This company carries a battery slightly too long and tall but is getting close to the right track. 96mm x 34m x 7mm.
http://www.falconev.com/batteries.html
A more suitable cell would be about 85mm x 40mm x 5mm. Pack four in a hard case and it would a decent replacement for the NiMH's
I perfer the Idea of 4-cell in the Pro-10 class. This means all my parts including batteries can cross over from 1:10 oval, 1:12 oval and 1:12 pan car.
I am not found of NiMH batteries, but they have served me well. Maybe a the replacement should be a 4-cell sized brick made from LiFePO4 cells when the technology comes around.
This company carries a battery slightly too long and tall but is getting close to the right track. 96mm x 34m x 7mm.
http://www.falconev.com/batteries.html
A more suitable cell would be about 85mm x 40mm x 5mm. Pack four in a hard case and it would a decent replacement for the NiMH's
01-29-2008, 02:57 PM
#92
Tech Rookie
pro 10?
i say just bring back direct drive pan cars period! and not because they are simple but the speed & handeling aspect of it and forget 4 cell rules it should be 1/10s scale 6 cell stock , 19 turn & mod! if you want to use the equilavent to these batteries & motors in lipo & brushless form fine i mean they are legal now...and besides if these classes do take off where we gonna race em' on road is pretty much dead in so cal, only place i can think of is bending corners on OC
01-29-2008, 03:42 PM
#93
I hope CRC going make some touring hex wheel adaptor for their GenX10. Yokomo had a DDT project few years ago. Their prototype car can accept pan car wheels as well as touring wheels. In that way, you can match up the tires and the bodies easily. Yes, Pro-10 should be a 4 cell class. Not many can handle 6 cell with 19T or mod motor on a pan car.
Last edited by Mike Schumacher; 01-29-2008 at 03:54 PM.
01-29-2008, 05:19 PM
#94
I've driven CRC pantoura 200mm and 230mm wide CRC conversion kit from PRC, until about 8 months ago.
With 10.5BL and 7.4V Lipo its not as fast as a TC with 3.5 BL down the straight, rather more like a 5.5 type motor. It is much faster in corner speed and they have incredible handling in and out of corners and overall lap times are as fast as 3.5BL TCs.
So I dont think a 200mm pan car is too much to handle with 7.4v and 10.5BL. Just the opposite, they are much easier to drive with that combo than any mod TC, or even 10.5BL TCs.
I'll be getting a CRC or BMI soon and start running them again and hopefully start a class at our local track and take it up to MDI and talk to Tim Potter and see they'd like to run them also...here's what we'd probably do:
200mm Pan Car w/ 200mm GT bodies or GTP style(like Serpent 200mm GTP body)
Classes:
-10.5 BL & 7.4v Lipo or 6 cell Nimh
-13.5 BL & 7.4v lipo or 6 cell nimh
Budget class:
200mm Pan car w/ Gt bodies, and Novak XBR w/ 10.5BL EX Sport brushless motor system- $150 for combo.
Or even cheaper:
200mm Pan Car w/ GT bodies, and Black Can motors and novak GTS or LRP $45 ESCs that run up to 19T motors...ESC and motor= $65!?!?
With 10.5BL and 7.4V Lipo its not as fast as a TC with 3.5 BL down the straight, rather more like a 5.5 type motor. It is much faster in corner speed and they have incredible handling in and out of corners and overall lap times are as fast as 3.5BL TCs.
So I dont think a 200mm pan car is too much to handle with 7.4v and 10.5BL. Just the opposite, they are much easier to drive with that combo than any mod TC, or even 10.5BL TCs.
I'll be getting a CRC or BMI soon and start running them again and hopefully start a class at our local track and take it up to MDI and talk to Tim Potter and see they'd like to run them also...here's what we'd probably do:
200mm Pan Car w/ 200mm GT bodies or GTP style(like Serpent 200mm GTP body)
Classes:
-10.5 BL & 7.4v Lipo or 6 cell Nimh
-13.5 BL & 7.4v lipo or 6 cell nimh
Budget class:
200mm Pan car w/ Gt bodies, and Novak XBR w/ 10.5BL EX Sport brushless motor system- $150 for combo.
Or even cheaper:
200mm Pan Car w/ GT bodies, and Black Can motors and novak GTS or LRP $45 ESCs that run up to 19T motors...ESC and motor= $65!?!?
01-29-2008, 05:20 PM
#95
I'm all for the Pan10/Pro10 class. when I started racing it was in the Pan10 and 12 classes, and boy do I miss it. I also like what was posted earlier, for classes use regular 10 scale rules. 6cell or 7.4 lipo, stock, 19t or mod. With the tire sizes made for this class 6cell stock should be fine for the average beginner.
Since seeing this thread I'll be ordering my Corally Pro10 soon. I just hope it's not 4cell only thats what 1/12 is for.
Since seeing this thread I'll be ordering my Corally Pro10 soon. I just hope it's not 4cell only thats what 1/12 is for.
01-29-2008, 05:22 PM
#96
One of the things that really "makes or breaks" how realistic or cool a racecar looks is the relationship of wheel & tire size to the size and shape of the car. Running a full bodied GT1 (Corvette, Ferrari, Aston Martin type GT1's) or TransAm body requires a tire and wheel that's a bit bigger - otherwise it looks like a car on roller skates or an old Mini Cooper or something.
However - smaller OD tires look ok when matched up with LeMans Prototypes or Daytona Prototype styles of bodies.
Having said that, I like the thought of using currently available touring sedan wheels and tires, especially the rubber ones. NOT for all 200mm pan cars but in a class where taller GT1 and TransAm style bodies are in use. The other advantage to the narrower taller whell/tire format is the fact it would prevent the cars from being too ballistic fast - hence a little more attractive to the newcomer of novice. I realize that special hub adapters would need to me made - but I know for a fact someone is already working on them. Yokomo once had a pan car with reg. sedan wheels on it many years ago - but I don't think it ever made it into production. I know they had a pretty trick looking hub for the diff. side of the axle.
Just for reference sake - the Porsche 911 GT body in the photo is 194mm wide at the front, 204mm across the rear with 55mm front tires and 59mm rears. Tire size looks pretty good - but in my opinon are little on the small side of things.
Just some food for thought.
Dale Epp - Protoform
However - smaller OD tires look ok when matched up with LeMans Prototypes or Daytona Prototype styles of bodies.
Having said that, I like the thought of using currently available touring sedan wheels and tires, especially the rubber ones. NOT for all 200mm pan cars but in a class where taller GT1 and TransAm style bodies are in use. The other advantage to the narrower taller whell/tire format is the fact it would prevent the cars from being too ballistic fast - hence a little more attractive to the newcomer of novice. I realize that special hub adapters would need to me made - but I know for a fact someone is already working on them. Yokomo once had a pan car with reg. sedan wheels on it many years ago - but I don't think it ever made it into production. I know they had a pretty trick looking hub for the diff. side of the axle.
Just for reference sake - the Porsche 911 GT body in the photo is 194mm wide at the front, 204mm across the rear with 55mm front tires and 59mm rears. Tire size looks pretty good - but in my opinon are little on the small side of things.
Just some food for thought.
Dale Epp - Protoform
01-29-2008, 06:03 PM
#98
I hope CRC going make some touring hex wheel adaptor for their GenX10. Yokomo had a DDT project few years ago. Their prototype car can accept pan car wheels as well as touring wheels. In that way, you can match up the tires and the bodies easily. Yes, Pro-10 should be a 4 cell class. Not many can handle 6 cell with 19T or mod motor on a pan car.
Dale, perhaps your right, the Tamiya Courage body on their Direct drive GT chassis with TC wheels look very realistic.
01-29-2008, 06:18 PM
#99
6 Cell or 4 Cell
TVMRocket69 I could not agree with you more about the cell issue. 12th scale is for 4 cell.
How will this work out with Lipos 4 to 6 cells? I am new to the Lipo deal and I am starting to learn more about them because I am in the market to buy batteries.
How will this work out with Lipos 4 to 6 cells? I am new to the Lipo deal and I am starting to learn more about them because I am in the market to buy batteries.
01-29-2008, 06:35 PM
#101
Tech Regular
We ran the 103's all summer last year with LiPo's and black can Mabuchi's. With rubber tires, these things can be a real pain to get working on a parking lot or low/med bite track and rubber tires. Foams may or may not be better.
4 cell would make for a much more controllable car as far as I'm concerned.
If we do go back to 10th pancars, the bodies MUST be realistic looking. The Porsche body that Dale made is pretty sweet and would be great. Same thing for a body like the Tamiya. If it goes the way that the 12th bodies are currently (all ugly) then I think we'll have problems.
I don't like the idea of forcing the bodies to be licenced but they should look like an actual current style prototype (ALMS, ACO, etc). I think that all of the bodies should have a proper wing.
4 cell would make for a much more controllable car as far as I'm concerned.
If we do go back to 10th pancars, the bodies MUST be realistic looking. The Porsche body that Dale made is pretty sweet and would be great. Same thing for a body like the Tamiya. If it goes the way that the 12th bodies are currently (all ugly) then I think we'll have problems.
I don't like the idea of forcing the bodies to be licenced but they should look like an actual current style prototype (ALMS, ACO, etc). I think that all of the bodies should have a proper wing.
01-29-2008, 07:49 PM
#102
These bodies would be cool for this class:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...c=cs&pn=MCA213
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=PFM140722
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...c=cs&pn=MCA146
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...c=cs&pn=MCA213
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=PFM140722
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...c=cs&pn=MCA146
01-29-2008, 08:55 PM
#103
Tech Adept
My only concern would be to please make these chassis more affordable.
I understand that they are made from plenty of aluminium and graphite, but I'm not really sure when you open the box for just a chassis, it doesn't often feel like you get value for money when you open your pan car compared to opening say a tc or off road buggy.
My opinion.
I do like the idea of this class though, in fact I have been waiting on a new front bumper to convert my HPI Super f1 to 200mm pan car with TC body for a month now.
Best of luck with it.
I understand that they are made from plenty of aluminium and graphite, but I'm not really sure when you open the box for just a chassis, it doesn't often feel like you get value for money when you open your pan car compared to opening say a tc or off road buggy.
My opinion.
I do like the idea of this class though, in fact I have been waiting on a new front bumper to convert my HPI Super f1 to 200mm pan car with TC body for a month now.
Best of luck with it.
01-29-2008, 10:04 PM
#104
There is value in the box: Carbon Fiber is not cheap.
I guess a cheaper car could be made with 2.5mm or 3mm G10. The change would reduce the kit prices by about $30 to $50. With a G10 chassis I would not be as scared to run on asphalt, since the replacement chassis would cost about $40 not $80.
I guess a cheaper car could be made with 2.5mm or 3mm G10. The change would reduce the kit prices by about $30 to $50. With a G10 chassis I would not be as scared to run on asphalt, since the replacement chassis would cost about $40 not $80.
01-30-2008, 01:28 AM
#105
Graphite is a nessesity with todays pan cars. They provide so much grip that it's vital that the cars are as stiff as possible. Only graphite can provide that. All metal alloys are too heavy and dosen't work with electric and fiberglass is too soft.