Pro10 Class
02-07-2008, 04:48 PM
#406
There is a lot you can do.
Stiffer front springs.
Harder of softer front tires.
Less camber.
More or less caster.
More or less reactive caster.
Move the batteries fore or aft.
Softer center spring.
Softer center shock oil.
Raise the front ride height.
Tighten the diff.
Softer flex plates (BMI cars).
Softer t-bars.
Softer side springs. (Link cars)
Mount body further back.
Mount wing futher back.
Choose body with less front down force or more rear down force.
Do the opposite to get more steering.
Stiffer front springs.
Harder of softer front tires.
Less camber.
More or less caster.
More or less reactive caster.
Move the batteries fore or aft.
Softer center spring.
Softer center shock oil.
Raise the front ride height.
Tighten the diff.
Softer flex plates (BMI cars).
Softer t-bars.
Softer side springs. (Link cars)
Mount body further back.
Mount wing futher back.
Choose body with less front down force or more rear down force.
Do the opposite to get more steering.
Adrian list of changes is good!
My method to sort out the front end is:
1:First change I make is tire change
2:Springs
3:Camber/Caster together
Don't neglect the rear end in finding the setup with quick changes when sorting out steering.
If you have the roll center kits, that is also something to play with.
Also picking a tire compound matters. I perfer tires that are dual compounds with the harder foam being on the egde. More consistant tire set to tire set than CA sidewalls and less prep work.
Also to consider is the rear tires. On my 1:10 Oval I am fond of the G2 compound on the oustide. That tire is about 1/4 Black 3/4 Grey. That harder ring adds many laps of tire life and keeps corner speed up compared to a simple grey tire by not digging or folding the edge.
My method to sort out the front end is:
1:First change I make is tire change
2:Springs
3:Camber/Caster together
Don't neglect the rear end in finding the setup with quick changes when sorting out steering.
If you have the roll center kits, that is also something to play with.
Also picking a tire compound matters. I perfer tires that are dual compounds with the harder foam being on the egde. More consistant tire set to tire set than CA sidewalls and less prep work.
Also to consider is the rear tires. On my 1:10 Oval I am fond of the G2 compound on the oustide. That tire is about 1/4 Black 3/4 Grey. That harder ring adds many laps of tire life and keeps corner speed up compared to a simple grey tire by not digging or folding the edge.
Good info
Thank you
02-07-2008, 07:16 PM
#407
Does it matter what body I want to use? I am paying for the car, I am paying for everything else.... I use will what body I want to...... I know you guys want to use real looking bodys, but I dont really want to... The only real-ish body I would want to run is a Enzo, and no one commented on if there is one or not....
Thank you
Hey Dale...I see that the Cadillac CTS-V is not on the site in 190 or 200mm. I know that runs in SPEED GT and I think that might be an interesting body running with Mustangs and Corvettes and the other GT bodies in a 200mm pan class
02-07-2008, 08:53 PM
#410
The thing with the Enzo is that it was never run in a GT race series which I think is the issue. If your track doesnt have a problem with you running it then have at.
Hey Dale...I see that the Cadillac CTS-V is not on the site in 190 or 200mm. I know that runs in SPEED GT and I think that might be an interesting body running with Mustangs and Corvettes and the other GT bodies in a 200mm pan class
Hey Dale...I see that the Cadillac CTS-V is not on the site in 190 or 200mm. I know that runs in SPEED GT and I think that might be an interesting body running with Mustangs and Corvettes and the other GT bodies in a 200mm pan class
Theres no class for them (yet) But I dont think there will be one
02-08-2008, 02:05 AM
#411
Every country has pro-10 rules already. All you have to do is make the max width 208mm (to accomodate body width) and use all the other rules excpet the bodies.
For bodies just run what your local group decides it wants to run.
For power systems just run what your local group decides it wants to run.
Too many rules turn off novices and make racing un-fun. Just relax, race and have fun. The rules will evolve on thier own.
For bodies just run what your local group decides it wants to run.
For power systems just run what your local group decides it wants to run.
Too many rules turn off novices and make racing un-fun. Just relax, race and have fun. The rules will evolve on thier own.
I know each country has rules, I'm trying to find out what the defecto standard is. If the brca rules vary slilghtly to roar rules it's better to harmonise them now than later on when thousands of people have already bought the cars and bodies etc.
Clubs sometimes like to have something to work from. If they know it's the world wide standard they can easily tell people what fits into the formula.
I would run a leman style prototype shell whatever happens. Pro10 is for proper looking race cars not shoping trolley's. And yes that include huge rear wings!
Last edited by JevUK; 02-08-2008 at 02:28 AM.
02-08-2008, 02:17 AM
#412
http://hobbycentre.ca/ACTIVE+HOBBY+A...00MM+BODY.html
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=18745
Some more 200mm
Last edited by JevUK; 02-08-2008 at 02:33 AM.
02-08-2008, 07:26 AM
#413
Tech Adept
if i get my hands on one, I will beat taz with this body http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/7497/
or maybe this one lmao. With a 3.5 or 4.5 lmao
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/7464/
or maybe this one lmao. With a 3.5 or 4.5 lmao
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/7464/
02-08-2008, 07:37 AM
#414
Tech Adept
I agree. I don't have anything a new - I have an old Bolink 10 Elminator. Very simple to work on. Fun and fast to take out. If I raced, might want something newer but nothing to complicated.
02-08-2008, 08:59 AM
#415
Well I remember racing GTP 1/10 back in the day and I still have P-35 bodies ready to be painted for my Gen-X10.
Most of you guys don't remember using 1200Mah pack and crapy motors, we were still to fast so I think 4 Cell and 17.5 would be more than enough for stock. But mod if you can hang on have fun!!
By the way let's stop talking about it and get some races started!!!!!!!
Most of you guys don't remember using 1200Mah pack and crapy motors, we were still to fast so I think 4 Cell and 17.5 would be more than enough for stock. But mod if you can hang on have fun!!
By the way let's stop talking about it and get some races started!!!!!!!
02-08-2008, 12:26 PM
#417
Fixed lower A-arms and 4-cell is what makes a pan-car a pan car. This is not a touring car, if you want those features go back to Sedan.
A Pro10 car has more incommon with a 1:12 scale car than any other type of car on the market. In that respect, a PRO10 car has alot in common with 1:10 oval. They all use similar front ends, rear ends and 4-cells.
Why change the versitality of my spare parts. I have driven sedan for a few years and filled my pit bag busting with spare parts.
Now that I just drive 1:12 and 1:10 oval, my pit bag is about 20# lighter. Many of the spare parts can be transfered between cars including my batteries. If I were to start racing PRO10 the only thing I need to do is place that car in my car hauler bag and go racing. I already own the shims, ride hieghts adjustors, bearings, tires, lubes, springs, piviot balls and other items to get that car rolling.
Leave independant suspension and 6-cell packs for off-road and Sedans. Keep what works and the cost down by keeping all four classes of pan cars the same:
02-08-2008, 12:46 PM
#418
maybe 6 cell is no necesary, but I will really miss the space for lipos.
I think in the first period, that must be left for each club to decide. After getting some experience, the choice will be better.
I think in the first period, that must be left for each club to decide. After getting some experience, the choice will be better.
