3LikesCRC 1/10 Pan Car
01-05-2011, 09:07 PM
#1383
After some of the 5 min races, 6 of the top ten drivers were all within 4 seconds of each other, and the rest were barely a lap down (on a 12 second lap).
They appear to be simple cars, but the small details really count when setting them up. A .5 turn somewhere can make all the difference.
Shawn.
01-06-2011, 03:19 AM
#1385
If you can set the end points on your TX then adjust the brake so it is just enough to slow the car into a corner without spinning it, this can be helpful at times, but basically you are using the front end for cornering and not the brakes, so start with the 5º negative blocks and put 2 spacers behind the upper arms for less castor, this gives you the turn in without the hooking (pulling around ) effect coming out of corners (you may even exit a corner with power on understeer).
Unlike a TC where you have to balance the front and rear to work together in harmony, on a pan car the front and rear work independentely with the weight movement of the battery/electrics to balance the two ends.
Unlike a TC where you have to balance the front and rear to work together in harmony, on a pan car the front and rear work independentely with the weight movement of the battery/electrics to balance the two ends.
. The manual requires 3 pieces for both the left and right arms. I replaced them temporarily with the plastic shims from my XRay, inside hole is bigger but it will do for now until the teflon shims arrived from an on-line shop.Got a question though... how long should I thread the kingpin (holding the conical spring) into the steering block. The manual says to thread it until the spring touches the lower arm pivot ball. Will that be enough for the preload on the springs?
01-06-2011, 03:54 AM
#1386
Hope this helps...
Jun
01-06-2011, 05:41 AM
#1387
I think there isn´t anything broken. It seems the center pivot football thing has moved so if you remove the sidesprings you may notice the rear pod won´t move freely also. Just realign the center pivot according to the manual and you should be fine again. But I think it´s a good idea striping down the rear pod completely for this as for the realignemt process it´s the best just having the center pivot and the lower podplate connected to the chassis.
01-06-2011, 05:50 AM
#1388
remove the links and pivot balls, and check for a bent screw or ball, and compare lengths of the links. the center pivot is probably shifted and just needs to be readjusted after you correct the sides.
01-06-2011, 02:24 PM
#1390
reset your football.... its outta wacked!
take your wheels off, remove the rear top plate with shock and side tubes, remove the rear side links.... then inspect the football. make sure it moves freely. then reassemble on a flat board (page 2 in the manual for a reference)
i would do Tom Firsching kingpin length .580" (http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...ngChamps08.pdf)
take your wheels off, remove the rear top plate with shock and side tubes, remove the rear side links.... then inspect the football. make sure it moves freely. then reassemble on a flat board (page 2 in the manual for a reference)
i would do Tom Firsching kingpin length .580" (http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...ngChamps08.pdf)
01-07-2011, 12:43 AM
#1392
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
reset your football.... its outta wacked!
take your wheels off, remove the rear top plate with shock and side tubes, remove the rear side links.... then inspect the football. make sure it moves freely. then reassemble on a flat board (page 2 in the manual for a reference)
...
take your wheels off, remove the rear top plate with shock and side tubes, remove the rear side links.... then inspect the football. make sure it moves freely. then reassemble on a flat board (page 2 in the manual for a reference)
...
And this is how it looks only with pivot links without pivot fottball...
Could it be that my main plate is badly tweaked...? Pivot links looks even to me... The pivot balls and supports looks good... Screw holes also...
01-07-2011, 03:07 AM
#1393
if there is no visible damage, then just swap parts from left to right to see if the problem follows. if you switch links from left to right, does the gap stay on the left side or does it move with the link?
01-07-2011, 06:29 AM
#1395
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Take a look at this setup sheet. I know it is 1/12th scale, but it shows the distance being measured.
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...09IICsetup.pdf
Hope this helps.
dumper