Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

PM me your address and I will mail one to you.

Bill

notsocrazybrit

iTrader: (2)

HI guys, I wonder if anyone has a photo of a Gen x10 le with the forward flat mounted servo option. I have the medium and wide front plates a JR3650 and medium and small Kimbrough servo savers. I spent a little bit of time trying to figure out a proper arrangement but I don't seem to be able to get a reasonable angle on the steering links. I'm trying to use the flat mount servo posts that came with my gen xi, are they the right ones ?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Notso,

For me, the small Kimbrough servo savers are not quite stiff enough for the heavier WGT cars. This applies to both 1S and 2S setups.

So, I use the Kimbrough mid-size servo saver that comes with no pre-drilled holes. Drill my own holes for the ball studs. Had to be fairly careful doing this to make sure the holes are properly spaced. Ruined one before I caught on to that issue. For the reversed servo setup, the ball studs are attached to the back side of the servo saver.

Using the CRC raised red aluminum ball studs on the steering links to minimize the angle.

Those plastic "laydown mount" servo posts are what I am using. I add a dab of shoe-goo under the servo to better secure it to the front plate.

Attached are a couple pictures for your reference.

Cheers!

Bill

notsocrazybrit

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much Bill, a picture is worth a thousand words.
I'll get myself some raised ballstuds you wouldn't have a part number would you? How about those ball cups that you are using on the steering links? It seems like the kit one's will be a tight fit between the servo saver and servo case.
Your cars look great Bill, lots of nice details. I like the battery locators on the side's of the battery. The centre body support on the front brace seems like a good idea too.
While I'm here I might as well ask... For 1s 10.5 blinky, low grip carpet should I use the medium or wide front end.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

#1407 Anodized Hex Balls for One Piece Link.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=1407

The ball cups are the ones used on the Top touring cars. They are excellent!

I get more steering from the medium front end so I would use that on low grip. For high grip (usually at a major event), I like the wide front end.

Cheers back!

Bill

notsocrazybrit

iTrader: (2)

Thanks again Bill.

sparkyboy22

I bust the pod on my X10LE, snapped all of the 3 graphite parts.

Trying to avoid doing it again.

If I get the parts 1763 and 3342 will these fit onto the car without also replacing the lower graphite part or the ali motor mount?

Cancun Tom

Bill, I also have this same chassis. I noticed some things on yours. Could you tell me what teeth your pinion and spur are? Also what is your tire diameter? I like the "front steer" servo set up too. The cross-brace over it...where did you get it? What motor do you run? I see you use a red spring on the shock, what weight oil, also where can I source it? What front springs are you using and also tires? I really appreciate any answers as I live in Cancun, Mexico and therefore am somewhat isolated from comparing notes and setups with others. Thanks

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Yes, those are the two parts I use on my X10LE car to beef up the rear pod. Works great for 1S unboosted WGT classes.

If you want the ultimate in crash worthiness, you can use a second #3340 Low Profile Motor Pod on the left side because it works on both sides. I used this rear pod setup when WGT was running boosted ESCs and crashes were potentially far more damaging.

After such an impact, also make sure that your current Motor Pod is still straight. The weight of the motor in a big impact can bend them.

Was that shunt that did all this damage on carpet or asphalt?

Cheers!

Bill

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Hi Tom,

Thanks for showing the pictures. That helps a ton.

From the front end parts, I assume that your car started out as being a Pro chassis and was upgraded to an LE with the updated bottom plate.

Very interesting how you have your 1S battery positioned sideways; so, I assume that you are running on asphalt and looking for more weight transfer from side-to-side by having the pack placed that way.

I can say that I always use an 88T CRC spur; but, the pinion varies quite a bit per the motor/ESC setup used. However, following ROAR WGT rules, my pinion is usually in the low-to-mid 40T range with a Trinity D3 13.5 motor.

The front brace is optional CRC part #1776 Multi Width Front Brace. To this I added an adjustable height Corally touring car body post to prevent the body from flexing downward too much in a frontal impact and cracking at the front wheel well openings. This cheap trick really can really make a body last a lot longer.

I only run Spec Lilac WGT tires as required per the events I run in (being ROAR and major races). If you are running on asphalt, Lilacs may not provide enough traction for your situation. Lilacs are doable when used on cleaned and well prepared asphalt tracks.

I often start on a new carpet track using red center and rear springs and 1/12th scale 50-55# front springs (and king pins); so, that is what you are likely seeing on my carpet car. Usually have something softer on asphalt tracks; so, you would need to describe your track surface to give me a hint.

Hope this helps.

Cheers!

Bill

sparkyboy22

I was giving it a quick test in the office. Caught a chair leg with the back wheel.

Wade....

iTrader: (2)

So carpet then!

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Dang! I always hated myself afterwards when I'd do that without taking the few seconds of time it would take to put the body back on. LOL

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Still wondering myself...

Wade....

iTrader: (2)

How come Horizon does not have any Encore shock springs or 3342?

I ordered 3340 instead but I still would like to get a hold of a red center spring. Any help?

Also noticed Horizon has the GenX10LE on inventory reduction.... new car coming?