2wdrive

Hi, i hope someone here can help me out with something i can't get my head around.

1. A softer spring will give a car less on-power steering (and more off-power). A harder spring will give more on-power steering (and less off-power).

2. If i put the shock in an horizontal position it effectivly becomes softer in relation to a shock that is placed at an angle.

So how come the horizontal shock gives more on-power steering when it effectivly becomes softer and would in theory give me less on-power steering?

What does a horizontal shock do that an angled shock with a softer spring doesn't to create the onpower steering?

Can someone give me a technical explanation why that is because i don't see the logic behind it yet.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I got a couple runs in last night. The first run the car just wasn't right. It was very edgy and was darting on the straight. I readjusted the tweak, toe and put more compound on the front tires. Then it felt great. I don't know when I did it, but it was geared really really wrong too. Rollout was approaching 4 inches and the motor was really hot. No wonder I had no infield punch. I fixed that on the bench last night and will be around 3.10" RO for practice on Saturday and can go up or down a couple pinion teeth from there. It is time to cut down some new front tires though. I ran the inside foam ring right off the rim. The rears are starting to get down there too, right around 2mm of material left on the rim, about 52mm. Time for another set of 56mm (2.20") all the way around. I'm going to use Bill's advice and cut 2 sets of fronts and rotate.

I'm trying something different to adjust ride height by shimming the king pin. Someone has probably already done it on one of these and is what is done for most of my RC F1 cars. I'm using the 1/8" ID plastic Associated spacers on the kingpin, the 10th king pins and perches with 12th springs. I haven't run it like this yet, but thought it was less of a pain than putting a stack of shims under the lower arms. I have .45, .50, CRC springs to test with.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

56mm is kind of big for carpet
I wouldn't go any more than 53, normally start at 52 for racing
Rear tires last a long, long time
on our 90x45 track we tend to run around 86 roll, I have gone as high as 92 roll in the winter
Always temp after a few minutes, anytime you change roll

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I can't tell you how old the rears are. I'm pretty sure 4 or 5 front sets old. You are right about the fronts, I will stay with that diameter. This last set of fronts I believe started out at 53 (2.10) and the rears were 55 (2.20) once upon a time. I'm starting to over think things again and just need more laps. I think I tore up a spur, replaced it at home and put the wrong diameter in, 84 instead of a 94 and hadn't ran it since. I'll admit it, I've been slacking on WGT for F1 lately.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

John, at Access I always start my tires at 2.12 front and rear. As for rollout 3.1 is pretty close to what we roll the 12th scale 17.5 cars at. I'd imagine getting down to about a 2.90 on our little layout would probably be better. The Gate is quite a bit bigger than home, and I was running a 3.08 at the regionals. Feather rolled out at 3.15 last week on a D3, and it was way too tall. All depends on the motor though.

Changing ride height at the king pin changes the relation of the upper arm to the caster block, which in turn, causes a difference in the amount of camber gain you'll get through suspension travel. That's why I always stack shims.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

ok, I'll get started.

ben w

does anyone know if there are 25-26mm standoffs for these for running 7.4 volt stickpacks.

ben.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

CRC Part #3337 Red 7/8" Hex Standoffs were used on the original Gen X-10 (that supported a 2S lipo pack with a thin nut underneath each standoff) so they should be fairly close to what you need. They come packaged in pairs.

Bill

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely not!

They would be perfect if you add a bolt AND a additional thickness of carbon...

Look for Xray parts instead...

dazzler-pws

I have to say i LOVE racing mine

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

Me Too. This is quickly becoming my favorite class. This car makes it easy to enjoy.......

chris_blakey

final got time to do a blog post for the last national

http://rcgtpancars.blogspot.co.uk/

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Car 2 needs a receiver battery, a shock rebuild, spring changes and a painted body for my son to start learning the class. He is 14 and has been showing promise since he was 9, so I thought I'd start him down the path of racing competition. He's run a little indoor offroad, TransAM, and Boosted 17.5 TC. He did well with my 12th last time he ran it. He has better hand I coordination than I do. Wish me luck!

On another note, I picked up a Hudy manual tire truer and had fun learning how to use it this weekend. 5 pairs of fronts and 3 sets of rears later, I had quite a mess to clean up, mostly on me. I didn't ruin any tires in the process. Truing was a lot easier than running the metal lathes I used to work with.

TyoBBS

My son crashed a lot of times this part:

3251 - CRC Steering Block set w/adjusters

I crashed one or two times too. Any news about this part with some optional part from manutech or another factory?

We have foam bumper but...


regards

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Opening up the slot on the inner side of the steering block can help with your issue. Gives more clearance for the block to move on the ballstud...Especially up and down which is limited.

Manutech's lexan bumper is somewhat more durable than CRC's carbon fiber units.

CRC also has a new steering block that uses an 1/8" steel front axle. Not sure I can say the block is more durable than the 3/16" aluminum axle.

Bill