Tamiya mini cooper
Well I got my used M-05 in the mail yesterday and started working on it. needed a new silver can, and all the electrics were pulled and had to put new ends on everything.
went to go hook up the esc and all it did was beep and I couldnt get any power to the rx. Hit the BET button and powered it up and got a pause...2 beeps...pause...then the beeping again(and the led was blinking with the beeps).
the guy wasnt sure if it worked to begin with...whats wrong? and and if it is wasted what is a good replacement that is cheap?
got a novak gtb but that is a pain to run brushed, and a LRP digital but I think that has seen better days
went to go hook up the esc and all it did was beep and I couldnt get any power to the rx. Hit the BET button and powered it up and got a pause...2 beeps...pause...then the beeping again(and the led was blinking with the beeps).
the guy wasnt sure if it worked to begin with...whats wrong? and and if it is wasted what is a good replacement that is cheap?
got a novak gtb but that is a pain to run brushed, and a LRP digital but I think that has seen better days
Well forget my last post, figured it out. Just got to plug in the power wire to the esc so it has power. duhhh
Need to look up how to calibrate the throttle and the power system will be fine.
but I think there is another issue...the ball diff. I think it is a bit loose. you just barely brush a tire and it stops. hopfully its like a ae ball diff and I can tighten it up a bit. the car has a pull to one side or the other under acc, and I am blaming the diff slipping.
any pointers?
Need to look up how to calibrate the throttle and the power system will be fine.
but I think there is another issue...the ball diff. I think it is a bit loose. you just barely brush a tire and it stops. hopfully its like a ae ball diff and I can tighten it up a bit. the car has a pull to one side or the other under acc, and I am blaming the diff slipping.
any pointers?
Well forget my last post, figured it out. Just got to plug in the power wire to the esc so it has power. duhhh
Need to look up how to calibrate the throttle and the power system will be fine.
but I think there is another issue...the ball diff. I think it is a bit loose. you just barely brush a tire and it stops. hopfully its like a ae ball diff and I can tighten it up a bit. the car has a pull to one side or the other under acc, and I am blaming the diff slipping.
any pointers?
Need to look up how to calibrate the throttle and the power system will be fine.
but I think there is another issue...the ball diff. I think it is a bit loose. you just barely brush a tire and it stops. hopfully its like a ae ball diff and I can tighten it up a bit. the car has a pull to one side or the other under acc, and I am blaming the diff slipping.
any pointers?
Also, I sanded both of the diff rings with 800 grit sand paper both sides and use super glue to hold them from slipping.
The car will wander alot with the stock servo saver. I would suggest a Kimbrough servo saver.
I'm running the stock arms on my M03 Shane. Now that I know they attach there though, I should be able to figure it out. Thanks
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Just spent some time refilling the 3Racing gear diff. With 500000 cst Kyosho silicone. Holy moly! It's like filling it with cold honey. I'd describe it as almost locked up, but still smooth. Amazing! Should have quite a lot of pull.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 01-23-2012 at 01:47 AM.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (35)
The other good filling is Ofna diff lock (Tower Hobbies usually has it). Very heavy so plenty of drive out of corners
500.000 sounds really tough.
Is there still any difference to a spool regarding on power pull or off power turn in?
I still have to tryout mine, but definitely will start with 2.000k, as included in the kit.
Just thinking: Do the experts also run in the gears with handwashing stuff or any abrasive medium? I heard this would even smooth the diff action.
Probably should get new o-rings after that...
BR,
Matthias
Is there still any difference to a spool regarding on power pull or off power turn in?
I still have to tryout mine, but definitely will start with 2.000k, as included in the kit.
Just thinking: Do the experts also run in the gears with handwashing stuff or any abrasive medium? I heard this would even smooth the diff action.
Probably should get new o-rings after that...
BR,
Matthias
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Adjustable gear diff working for me like a ball diff.
Double shims under outdrive gears and firmness adjusted by how tight the diff halves are screwed together. Liberal coating of AW grease.
Too tight and steering was lost, too loose and poor corner exit, "diffing out".
Car's never been better. Very successful at TCS yesterday in Pro Mini class, 17.5 no timing (esc).
Double shims under outdrive gears and firmness adjusted by how tight the diff halves are screwed together. Liberal coating of AW grease.
Too tight and steering was lost, too loose and poor corner exit, "diffing out".
Car's never been better. Very successful at TCS yesterday in Pro Mini class, 17.5 no timing (esc).
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
Anyone know why the Tamiya #53509 Hard 20t pinion is so hard to find in stock?? Any good long lasting alternatives...cant stand the stock pinion.
Adjustable gear diff working for me like a ball diff.
Double shims under outdrive gears and firmness adjusted by how tight the diff halves are screwed together. Liberal coating of AW grease.
Too tight and steering was lost, too loose and poor corner exit, "diffing out".
Car's never been better. Very successful at TCS yesterday in Pro Mini class, 17.5 no timing (esc).
Double shims under outdrive gears and firmness adjusted by how tight the diff halves are screwed together. Liberal coating of AW grease.
Too tight and steering was lost, too loose and poor corner exit, "diffing out".
Car's never been better. Very successful at TCS yesterday in Pro Mini class, 17.5 no timing (esc).
With the 3Racing diff you just build it as it comes, fill it with oil and run it.
I'm running 5K on carpet, as are a few other racers I know. We like it, it is fast in our local championship. Naturally other racers will have their own preferences, but I have found thick goop far too stiff in the car, rendering it undriveable - even 7K feels edgy on the track.
What I like about the oil-filled gear diff compared to the ball diffs is that as you accelerate out of the corners, the fluid locks up, so the diff can be both free mid-corner and positive out of it. It took a while to get used to this different feel, but having briefly gone back to a TA-03 diff, I'm sticking with the 3Racing diff from now on.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
The pinions were called something like ...metric pitch...to fit the Mini.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
With the fluid diff, you get what you get and to change it, it has to come out.
I have a tiny hole in the chassis to allow access to the diff half screws for adjustment. Ssshhh. Best diff I've ever had, ball or fluid, onroad or offroad.