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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 09-23-2011, 10:33 AM
  #15811  
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I just put my m-05 together last night. The speed control has a low voltage cut off to protect "LF" batteries, what is a "LF" batt? And what voltage cut off is it set up for? Thanks
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:46 AM
  #15812  
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Originally Posted by jsinclair
I just put my m-05 together last night. The speed control has a low voltage cut off to protect "LF" batteries, what is a "LF" batt? And what voltage cut off is it set up for? Thanks
LF stands for LiFe batteries. Haven't figure out what the cut off voltage is at.
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:49 AM
  #15813  
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Originally Posted by jcr
Are you sure it is 66.5mm? That seems kind of long.

I built up the Super Mini CVA with 3mm spacer and got 56mm total length.
Sorry, I meant 56.5.
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:02 PM
  #15814  
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Originally Posted by jcr
LF stands for LiFe batteries. Haven't figure out what the cut off voltage is at.
Ill figure it out tonight, and post my results here. My charger has a motor drive function, and ill just keep dropping the voltage until it cuts out.
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:41 PM
  #15815  
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The lowest voltage recommended for LiFe is 2.4v per cell.
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:12 PM
  #15816  
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Default Mini Motors /esc question

I just put a stock Johnson motor in my M05 Pro after running it on a 17.5 and the dropoff in speed is significant. I'm running a really cheap futaba esc, but have a Sphere and a Cyclone I couild use if I choose to. Should it make any difference at all in punch to run a better controller? Been a while since I ran a brushed motor. Is it still recommended to do the water dip treatment on a new Johnson motor?

Clay
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:23 PM
  #15817  
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Is anyone using the rear sway bar on the long chassis setup? I can't figure out how to get it to work due to the position of the shocks in the long setup. Help is appreciated.

Clay
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:18 PM
  #15818  
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Originally Posted by clayrace24
I just put a stock Johnson motor in my M05 Pro after running it on a 17.5 and the dropoff in speed is significant. I'm running a really cheap futaba esc, but have a Sphere and a Cyclone I couild use if I choose to. Should it make any difference at all in punch to run a better controller? Been a while since I ran a brushed motor. Is it still recommended to do the water dip treatment on a new Johnson motor?

Clay
On another note what Esc is good for silver can? Is the stock tamiya teu 104bk good enough?
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:28 PM
  #15819  
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Unless you're running at a very competitive level - national or international - the stock ESC will do the job just fine. I've seen more than a few guys with the old stock 101BK easily win against others running Tekins, Novaks, LRPs, etc. You might find more adjustments in a higher end ESC, like drag brakes, but the stock one will do fine.

As for motors, we've just started running controlled 17.5T/2200kv motors at our club. They match the top speed of a good silver can quite well, but definitely pull harder out of the corners. Is this what you're experiencing, or is it an actual loss of top speed?

Jim
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:18 AM
  #15820  
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Default Swaybar MO5L

See attached pictures for the rear swaybar on a MO5L. I do not use a front swaybar only on the rear. I also find at some tracks that it not useful, so I just disconnect one of the rear supports.

BTW,

Car setup has changed since these pictures.

Calvin.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-dsc_0282.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc_0278.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc_0280.jpg  
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:59 AM
  #15821  
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As for motors, we've just started running controlled 17.5T/2200kv motors at our club. They match the top speed of a good silver can quite well, but definitely pull harder out of the corners. Is this what you're experiencing, or is it an actual loss of top speed?
Both punch and top speed are noticeably less. The motor I put in was previosly used and I know nothing of it's history. I have a brand new one that I'm going to put in next and see how that goes.

Thanks for the input .

Clay
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Old 09-25-2011, 02:17 AM
  #15822  
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Default Latest Incarnation of my MO5L

A couple of dirty pictures of my MO5 LWB after racing. Certainly needs a clean.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-dsc_0567.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc_0574.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc_0576.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc_0575.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc_0578.jpg  

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Old 09-25-2011, 02:44 AM
  #15823  
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Cal, that's a disgustingly dirty car for a photo shoot

Interesting Lipo pack you got there what is it?
I'm sick and tired of buying Lipo's that get pregnant and I have to throw away!

Question: What causes this swellage and is this one you have any better?

P.S I treat my Lipo's with the utmost respect, charge them at a sensible rate & don't short circuit them, what's going on is it just me?
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Old 09-25-2011, 03:06 AM
  #15824  
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John,

It's like its owner, dirty.

The Lipo is a LRP 4600 30C. These are not cheap. I got one to try and have been happy with it, although the IP3800 is very popular and will be the next batteries I get for mini.

I don't balance my packs and I don't touch them after racing. Just leave them until the next week and top up when i get to the track.

My batteries get a workout as I practice normally once a week and race twice a week when I'm home. Other than that they get left for periods of up to a month were they stay in the Lipo sack.

I have only had problems with swelling packs in Touring Car and the old 4000 IP Lipo packs. I must add that I thoroughly abused those packs and still have a couple I use for practice. These I would run to cutoff, which I had set at 3.8 volts per cell. This certainly hurts the batteries as they do not last as long. They are soon destined for greenier pastures.

BTW,

I have cleaned the car, ready for tomorrow night, providing the rain disappears and the sun comes out.

Later,

Calvin.
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:02 AM
  #15825  
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If anyone has a body that will go on a m03 that has the longer wheelbase, already painted or not and they would sellit,as long as itdoesnt have any cracksplease PM me
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