your sort of implying that that now that youve changed a to a gear diff this doesnt happen? from where i sit the type of diff you use wouldnt mak any difference to the outdrives notching anyway

BumFacedGoat,

Not implying that at all. All outdrives will eventually notch. I have found the tighter the diff is run the faster the outdrives will wear. Even when using blades they will still wear a notch in the outdrive.

The MO5Ra outdrives are just stronger and take more time to notch. I used to run my MO5 ball diff very tight using a 2.5mm diff bolt and different thrust bearing. When I was using the alloy diff outdrives they wore quickly, so I changed to the steel and the wear rate slowed down.

On the Oil gear, I have replaced the standard outdrives with ones from a Nitro car which are hardened steel and use diff blades. I have run my mini with the oil diff for over a month now and run various surfaces, carpet, asphelt etc and I do not see the same wear as before. At this time I do not have any evidence of notching.

The oil gear diff is not as tight the ball diff, so that might be why the wear rate is different. I have found the oil gear diff to be much more consistant and not have to worry about splines,(TAO3 ball diff), snapping a bolt,(MO5 ball diff) and tighter than a bevel gear diff.

As you have suggested, all outdrives will wear a notch, some just take longer.

I see the advantage of the oil gear diff, in that for different tracks you can have a diffs made up with lighter or heavier oil to suit the conditions.

Anyway just my opinion. I have two cars setup with these and find them to my liking. The part I like is on the MO5 I do not have the car pull left or right under acceleration anymore, but pulls straight.

BTW,

We use these diffs with our Hobbywing BL systems so there is a lot of force being applied to the outdrives and universals. I still have a Mini with a TAO3 ball diff, which I use regularly as well. At the present though the oil gear diff cars are being tested, under large event race conditions, clubbies and practice. So far these diffs are working well and are as fast as the guys using the TAO3 ball diffs, modified bevel gear diffs and modified MO5 diffs.

Enjoy your mini racing,

Calvin.

Another mini rookie question...

How do you have your AMB transponder mounted to your mini...I'm looking for a nicer way than a piece of velcro/tape.


"Honk if you love mini"

Misiek,

My AMB is on the right side steering post screw.

Hello everyone! The 2011 M Chassis Enduro sign ups are live on the Tamiya America website. here is the link: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=514 I look forward to seeing everyone again for 6 hours of fun in the sun! BTW if it does get cloudy, or decide to rain (I know it is July, but you never know with the weather this year) we will still run the race in the wet. So the enduro is rain or shine. Remember that, so if the weather turns cloudy for whatever reason, bring your water proofing stuff and whatever you need to keep going. Once again thanks for everyone's support and get your sign ups in for the 3rd annual M chassis enduro!!!!!

Roger

Racing dry & wet, sweet! Just like full size racing. I'm happy Aliso track is still available.

Could anybody explain the difference between the M05 and the M05Ra?

Hey guys. I just picked up a M05 and started to race it at my local carpet track. the motor is a little slow for my taste. Does anyone know if the traxxas 12t motor fits? And i'm also picking up the CVA oil filled shocks for it this week. What weight oil would be good to run in them and what color of springs would work well?

The M-05 is a basic M-Chassis kit. It's a front motor mounted, FWD on-road version, with a body included. The M-05Ra is the rally/off-road version, that comes with skid plates, rally tires, and a body. There is also an M-05 Pro, which is the semi-hopped up version of the two. It's a road version, but doesn't come with a body.

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/v...O/DSC_5855.jpg

Is it possible to convert a M-05Pro into a M-05Ra? I like the idea of racing offroad sometimes. But I don't want to buy a new kit.

The motor will fit. If it's got a torque ring on the outside of the can, that will probably have to go. The motor (I think) is a 550, so it's a bit longer. It will definitely throw the balance on your car right out the window.

What class are you racing exactly? A 12T would be a fairly massive step up from the stock motor.

As for tuning, the best advice is to go to rc-mini.net and read everything you can, then take it to the track and see how it works. It's hard to advise on springs and setup without really knowing the track. Rc-mini will get you going the right direction, though.

Jim

The class is an open class mixed with mini's, and micro's. Its just getting started. Is there a better motor to run in the M05 than that then? maybe a brushless? and thanks for the rc-mini site

Don't forget it will be a lot faster with a lipo in it. As for your motor question, try the search function. I'm sure that has been answered 100 times in this thread alone.

EZrun 13T is close to the silvercan i hear people say.. go try a 11T or something.. 9T is probably too fast..

I got a 9T in my TL-01 its fast and works nicely, but it might have a too high gearing.