Can the stock tamiya rims be dyed
 

Can the stock grey rims be dyed black. Thanks.

Tamiya's jar paint for plastic models works great and drys smooth. Thats what I use and it will not chip off.

Thanks for the link.

Unfortunately, I've read this article twenty or more times and I cannot find the part that explains how to setup the steering.

All I could find was a conclusion about how it worked on that specific build but with no detail of the settings used or indeed the servo used. Namely:

I'd really like to copy that setup exactly because if I build my m-05 per the instructions the steering does not work.

Note: the servos I have tried work fine in other cars - but no matter what I do this car has totally unpredictable steering that will not centre after I have turned left.



Cheers.

Your steering linkage is tweaked. It does not take very much to totally mess things up. It's usually the right steering arm. If everything is straight the stock linkage works just fine. Inspect your. linkages and I'll bet it's got a tweaked bit somewhere. Anything sort of perfect will give you what you're experiencing.

I'm in agreement with Granpa on this one, you've probably already tweaked something.

The reason we didn't put any set-up details in the article was because there was nothing to put. It was built exactly as per kit instructions. And 3 months later it still is.

I tweeked my steering links too and while I was waiting for new ones I "slightly" cleaned up the bores for the shoulder bolts and that freed it up nicely although giving it even more slack than normal which is hardly noticeable considering how bad it already was. :sneaky:

I never put the new ones on.:sneaky:

Ridiculous amount of toe out is your friend on this car.

So which part of the steering do I need to replace ? (Tamiya parts numbers?)

I've looked at it and it "appears" to all be in good order so I'm completely stumped.

Should I buy a completely new kit and start again ?

Because this car has never worked - it's not a matter of did work, crashed and then it stopped working. It's been crap since day one - without any crashes or bumps.

cheers and thanks for the input.

+1
Plus dont built a tight diff.Dont use heavy grease in the diff
Loose diff seems to help stop it pulling to the right under power.
Would explain why , for some, torque steer seems to go away after a few weeks (as the diff loosens up)

-1

yes this will stop the torque steer, but running the ball diff lose so you dont get any effects of the torque will have the same effect as a gear diff.

no acceleration out of corners :flaming:

ive gone from testing 2 or 3 ball diffs in my m03, and all at different tightness's and it still gave me wander, to the point where it would go right on acceleration and left off throttle.

I then tried the gear diff with anti wear grease and extra shims to tighten it, after many trial and errors it was at a point where i could go in a straight line and have a reasonable amount of punch out of a corner.

however i was still unhappy with how it turned out, my conclusion is because each mini is different and one of a kind, this may not always work for yours. certainly not mine anyways. on the other hand there are many other people that they have the tightest diff and their car will track perfectly straight, matter of luck. :rolleyes:

I always run the left steering link with more toe out than the right (shorter link on left).
Shorten the shocks or make sure that when the car is lifted in the air that the springs are tight ie: not able to move up and down on the shock body.

Loose springs are uncontrolable in the way they reseat after cornering and this upsets the balance of the car.

Shorter rear shocks than front shocks also helps.

Bump steer is also a good tunning option, but that is my secret.

bjspinner, your track must be very smooth to run this setup, as you would barely have any suspension travel??

If you pop the link off the servo is the steering linkage free from side to side?
It's easy to tell.
If not, loosen 1 screw at a time to find when it is free or, if the parts are bent that is also easy to see.
Do the "ream" trick to each shoulder screw hole and be sure the linkage is all freed up.

If it's not a sticky linkage problem then toe the crap out of the front wheels.
You'll notice that when you compress the suspension that the wheels will pull the toe back in, bump steer back towards O degree toe.

I've always run my gear diff nearly locked up with shims and antiwear grease too and don't experience torque steer, it was all fixed with toe out.
More toe out than you want to imagine, go extreme til it tracks straight then work you way back til it sucks again then go back to tracking straight.
Done deal. :sneaky:

I run a very tight MO5 ball diff in my MO5L and the car goes in a straight line. I also have the complete Tamiya hop-up steering rack on the car and MO5 alloy front uprights. Initially my car would not pull straight but then when the car loosened up the car is now very drivable, as is my MO5M similiar setup.

I do run 1-2 degrees front toe out which seems to settle the car down. I have seen Bruces car on the track and his car looked very well mannered and handled like a TC, so he must have something setup right.

I think that the MO5 just requires a different type of setup than the MO3. The car takes some time to get to work and be at the pointy end. I know when I used the original plastic steering system on the MO5 that I shimmed some of the slop out of it and used bearings in place of the bushes.

A spool and a very tight ball diff,(whether MO5 or TAO 3), will work in the MO5 and still run straight. It comes down to car setup and ensuring that you have no binding between the outdrives and the universals.

Hopefully I will post some pictures of my cars in the next few days. Both are blinged and setup differently. I personnally prefer the MO5L and have had the most success with this car. It presently has a very tight TAO3 ball diff fitted and seems to go alright.

Not sure why your steering rack/system is so bad. If it is not returning to centre I would be checking my servo saver and making sure that I was using the correct servo adaptor. I have made the mistake of using one that I thought was correct and caused all sorts of steering problems. I changed to a Kimborough and all was good again. I also use Futaba servo's in my car and as I have the MO5Pro car, I use the Tamiya high torque servo saver.

Hope you get your steering sorted, as the MO5 is such a great car.

Regards,

Calvin.

I dont class TFTR as being smooth, infact it seems to be worse each year.

Around 4mm ride height.

So much rain I guess.

oh, you run at templestowe, well i can understand that then. :nod: