What is the best lipo for the mini?

The RTR Mini Cooper bodies are from the original body mold. The same bodies that came with the M-01 chassis (58149 & 58163). They are slightly narrower, compared to the current Mini Cooper bodies. Item #50795 is the new and much wider Mini Cooper body.

like I said this is a new Rocket Pack range

so which newer cooper bodies would be worth a try (model #'s)? i'm still talking the older rover style and not the modern one.

Check you local hobby stores as well for stock.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=50795

awesome - i read your original post back to me wrong. hopefully this will solve the wheel well issues I was having with this RTR body. I nearly had to lack most of the well away to fit the new tire/rims.

It will! I did the same thing on my older Mini Cooper body, to fit 60D tires. Alot of dremmel use to eliminate tire rub. I also forgot to mention that the RTR Mini body that you have has a chrome plated plastic front grille & side mirrors. The newer body doesn't have any of those.

You know before you go and buy a different body why don't you try to lower the suspension with shorter springs. I had the same issue where my body was a tad too high and I used shorter springs and now the car and the body sits just right.

Been reading the thread starting from when the M03 was the top mini.

With the M05, do you still find the need to weigh the battery with lead flashings?

Does the 60:40 weight distribution still apply and is it still necessary? Assuming it's possible, will a 65:35 or even 70:30 ratio be better or bad?

I can use a mini servo at the back and move the 22gram transponder forward to where the external motor heatsink would normally be located, PLUS put lead weight on the bumper PLUS use the heavy gear shafts to (very nearly) reach the 70:30 ratio.

Its nothing like that you just get more run time it will not make to motor go faster and wear out. LiPo's just last longer then a NiMh battery that's all just stay with the 7.2v configuration don't do the 12.5V or bigger don't need it, besides todays NiMh can keep up with LiPo's if you have one that's 5000Mah or higher.

I don't have an M05 but I drove one and it does seem to be better balanced since they put the servo in the middle of the chassis instead of right on top of the motor in the front like the M03. The guy who had it didn't have any weights on the car just lowered the car a lot and it handled very nice. I have three M03's (M03M, M03R and a M03) and I also have an M04 I've been thinking of getting an M05 lately ever since I drove one. It seems to be a little better designed then the M03 I hate to say this cause I'm a big M03 fan but I just think that the M05 is a tad better.

M03racer, it's not really a suspension issue, since I had already upgraded to the tamiya oil shocks with short springs. The car can't go much lower without major scraping. The RTR came with much smaller diameter wheel/tire combo than the aftermarket ones. Because of this difference in diameter the body was cutout and made to fit a smaller wheel. In addition to this the body itself just seemed taller in general compared t others I've seen.

Hi, for the weight question, best way would be to do testing on your particular track and look at the stopwatch to see if it is better to go for a lighter or heavier car and what best weight distribution would be.

My M05 is around 1,250 - 1,280grms, depending on the race condition. I've seen 1,380gms M05s go faster.

Hope that helps.

Please post a pic so we see what you mean. Thanks

m03racer, here are a few quick pics. As you can see I needed to remove a decent amount of body behind the front wheel and infront of the rear to get the body down over the tires. I needed to also mount it up higher to eliminate too much rubbing on the tires.

You can also see the difference in diameter in the one pic as well. This body appears to have been cut for the smaller box stock tires?

Before you ask, I'm currently running Tamiya S-Grips in the rear and M-Grips in the front.