Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Elite
It's all over the place. A lot depends on which version you're running. Your best bet is to come on out and see. There are a # of "gurus" out there that are very helpful. All you have to do is ask.
For example, up until a few months ago, almost all were running the SWB or the Rover Mini. Right now the mid chassis is the most popular amoung the veteran Mini guys and a few are running the LWB version. Now that the old, good 60d slicks are unavailable, S-Grips are the tire of choice with more different insert combinations than I could possibly remember.
The answer to your question is that there is no consensus, only a lot of different and differing opinions.
For example, up until a few months ago, almost all were running the SWB or the Rover Mini. Right now the mid chassis is the most popular amoung the veteran Mini guys and a few are running the LWB version. Now that the old, good 60d slicks are unavailable, S-Grips are the tire of choice with more different insert combinations than I could possibly remember.
The answer to your question is that there is no consensus, only a lot of different and differing opinions.
My set up from todays race
the car was AWSOME and totally prodictable
Gear diff with thin oil/grease added for smooth action
FRONT
Yellow short Spring
400 oil
3 hole piston
5mm under piston
1 bush in the top of the shock
full rebound
TRF dampers
M grip tyres
White Swift wheels
Kit inserts
top hole on inner upper arm mount
inner hole on upright (plastic)
3mm spacers on steering for toe out
4mm wheel hex's with 0.5mm spacer
6mm ride height
REAR
White short spring
400 oil
3 hole piston
5mm under piston
1 bush in top of the shock
full rebound
TRF dampers
S grip tyres
White swift wheels
Kit inserts
Adjustable upper arms with 2mm spacers between
5mm wheel hex's
6mm ride height
Mini body shell , no electrinics plates added
50g of lead added under Lipo and 20g on top of each side of the battery holder
Superglued the sidewalls of the tyres and the outer tread to stop grip rolls and smeared tyres all over all 4 tyres for about 30 mins before heat
Silvercan motor with a GM sx6 speedo ,
The car was really great to drive , prodictable and awsome corner speed and grip was high i like this car more then the old M03 chassis it has replaced
the car was AWSOME and totally prodictable
Gear diff with thin oil/grease added for smooth action
FRONT
Yellow short Spring
400 oil
3 hole piston
5mm under piston
1 bush in the top of the shock
full rebound
TRF dampers
M grip tyres
White Swift wheels
Kit inserts
top hole on inner upper arm mount
inner hole on upright (plastic)
3mm spacers on steering for toe out
4mm wheel hex's with 0.5mm spacer
6mm ride height
REAR
White short spring
400 oil
3 hole piston
5mm under piston
1 bush in top of the shock
full rebound
TRF dampers
S grip tyres
White swift wheels
Kit inserts
Adjustable upper arms with 2mm spacers between
5mm wheel hex's
6mm ride height
Mini body shell , no electrinics plates added
50g of lead added under Lipo and 20g on top of each side of the battery holder
Superglued the sidewalls of the tyres and the outer tread to stop grip rolls and smeared tyres all over all 4 tyres for about 30 mins before heat
Silvercan motor with a GM sx6 speedo ,
The car was really great to drive , prodictable and awsome corner speed and grip was high i like this car more then the old M03 chassis it has replaced
Tech Master
iTrader: (55)
Would u suggest getting the M03 or M05 for the aliso track?
M05 for me
Ok, first club day with the shiny new M05PRO.
Gotta unlearn M03 to my mind, went with soft front, firmish rear, same rubber on all 4 corners.
Thing was brilliant.
Gotta unlearn M03 to my mind, went with soft front, firmish rear, same rubber on all 4 corners.
Thing was brilliant.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
M03
blue rear springs with 400 oil in the shocks and 5mm spacer under the piston
red front springs with 400 oil in the shocks and 5mm spacer under the piston
about 1.5 degrees front toe out
M grip tyres all round and superglue on the side of the tyres
ball diff fitted
M05
blue rear springs with 500 oil in the shocks and 6mm spacer under the piston
red front springs with 600 oil in the shocks and 6mm spacer under the piston
5mm wheel hubs and 1mm spacer on them on the rear
about 1 degree toe out front
kit D tyres with superglue on the sides and on the first piece of outer tread on the front tyres ,
the car WONT grip roll now and i am only 0.05 seconds slower with my M05 than i was with my M03
use the gear diff in the M05 , the ball diff causes it to veer to the left on power and pull sraight when cruzing ,
Good luck with it and let me know how you get on
blue rear springs with 400 oil in the shocks and 5mm spacer under the piston
red front springs with 400 oil in the shocks and 5mm spacer under the piston
about 1.5 degrees front toe out
M grip tyres all round and superglue on the side of the tyres
ball diff fitted
M05
blue rear springs with 500 oil in the shocks and 6mm spacer under the piston
red front springs with 600 oil in the shocks and 6mm spacer under the piston
5mm wheel hubs and 1mm spacer on them on the rear
about 1 degree toe out front
kit D tyres with superglue on the sides and on the first piece of outer tread on the front tyres ,
the car WONT grip roll now and i am only 0.05 seconds slower with my M05 than i was with my M03
use the gear diff in the M05 , the ball diff causes it to veer to the left on power and pull sraight when cruzing ,
Good luck with it and let me know how you get on
Tech Initiate
Questions regarding setup (Why I am asking is beyond me, I have not even started building my M-05 Pro )
First off, I notice a number of people run spacers under the shock piston. I assume this is to lower ride height. Is this for people using TRF shocks not specifically designed for the M chassis? I bought the Tamiya 54000 aluminum shocks specifically for the M cars, do people still run spacers with them?
I also noticed a lot of people put a bead of glue on the sidewalls to avoid traction roll. Is this legal for the Tamiya Championship series? I think its a great idea, but I do not want to get used to running my car that way if I cannot do so in the Tamiya series.
Thanks!
First off, I notice a number of people run spacers under the shock piston. I assume this is to lower ride height. Is this for people using TRF shocks not specifically designed for the M chassis? I bought the Tamiya 54000 aluminum shocks specifically for the M cars, do people still run spacers with them?
I also noticed a lot of people put a bead of glue on the sidewalls to avoid traction roll. Is this legal for the Tamiya Championship series? I think its a great idea, but I do not want to get used to running my car that way if I cannot do so in the Tamiya series.
Thanks!
First off, I notice a number of people run spacers under the shock piston. I assume this is to lower ride height. Is this for people using TRF shocks not specifically designed for the M chassis? I bought the Tamiya 54000 aluminum shocks specifically for the M cars, do people still run spacers with them?
then make sure you get ALL the air out of the shock , it is more difficult due to the spacers , i use 5mm in all shocks
did you order the short springs you need these to get the ride height down
I also noticed a lot of people put a bead of glue on the sidewalls to avoid traction roll. Is this legal for the Tamiya Championship series? I think its a great idea, but I do not want to get used to running my car that way if I cannot do so in the Tamiya series.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Good luck and enjoy the races
First off, I notice a number of people run spacers under the shock piston. I assume this is to lower ride height. Is this for people using TRF shocks not specifically designed for the M chassis? I bought the Tamiya 54000 aluminum shocks specifically for the M cars, do people still run spacers with them?
I also noticed a lot of people put a bead of glue on the sidewalls to avoid traction roll. Is this legal for the Tamiya Championship series? I think its a great idea, but I do not want to get used to running my car that way if I cannot do so in the Tamiya series.
Thanks!
I also noticed a lot of people put a bead of glue on the sidewalls to avoid traction roll. Is this legal for the Tamiya Championship series? I think its a great idea, but I do not want to get used to running my car that way if I cannot do so in the Tamiya series.
Thanks!
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (42)
I just finished building my M-05 Pro and I used other Tamiya aluminum dampers from my TA03F Pro. I just basically used the damper cap & housing, and used the rest of the parts from the kit, per manual. I'm also using MWB on mine with a Suzuki Swift 1600 body. I want to take it Tamiya track soon, but still have to paint the body. A bead of CA on the sidewalls huh? I was going to just seal the complete sidewall instead, like I always do on all my tires, but might try this. By the way, I'm also going to be using the kit tires & inserts.
yeah ONLY indoors on carpet do i superglue my sidewalls
Tech Master
iTrader: (55)
Got my M05. What hop ups are needed right away? Dampers and bearings? Where's the best place to get cheap bearings?
If you have the regular M-05 kit, then you will need to replace the dampers & bearings. I've bought bearings from Avid RC for $1 each, and they have a few selections on bearings. Tamiya also sells the complete ball bearing set. The clamp type wheel adapters are also a nice hop-up, to prevent from losing the pin, when the wheels are removed. So much more, but it all depends on you.
Tech Master
iTrader: (63)
only hopups i have on my M05 are the m chassis TRF shocks, alloy motor mount and ball bearings of course. Flourine coated pinion gear is a good part to get aswell, not a performance thing just lasts much longer than the original pinion.