![]() |
We're having enough trouble maintaining spec at my club now with only Tamiya cars. These should prove interesting: Some enthusiastic new racer shows up with his cool new HPI acquisition, and I have to explain the concept of Tamiya M chassis.
I still want one though. It makes me wonder if Tamiya is finally going to offer an update of the M cars. How cool would an M-05 be?!? Jim |
Originally Posted by MD
(Post 5576377)
Tony Gray - I was told by HPI that the Switch would be released in Japan only.
|
Well, I hope we get them in the U.S. When people start racing them I'll be interested in hearing their opinions. Hopefully, the guys at HPI in the U.S. are wrong.
|
Originally Posted by tony gray
(Post 5573871)
You guys forget, what we recommend people buy is what they NEED, not what they want...
M03M - $80, Shocks $25, Springs $8, Bearings $8 - Total $116 M03R - $125, Shocks $25, Body, $25 - Total $170 (All prices from the one HK based outlet) Ignoring tyres which you need for both cars anyway. $54 difference. Buys you a lot of other stuff. Yes the R has the shiny alloy stuff, but you DON"T NEED IT... The standard plastic parts on the 'M' and the Latest LWB are just as strong. I got no problem with someone buying an 'R' if they want all the bling, but it's not necessary and more importantly - it isn't any quicker..... :sneaky: But otherwise i entirely agree that the M03R isnt really value for money and have told this to a couple of people after i bought one myself. |
But that applies to BOTH cars Marty.... which is why I didn't put it in as part of the costing.
I was merely trying to show that at a basic level - this is all you need. Unis and ball diffs are the next level up and would be for both models 'R' and Standard. |
Heya, I'm curious about a couple of practices that some mini racers use. They sound at least partially like bunk to me, but I'd like to understand a little more about this stuff.
1. Differential centering: I have heard that some people spend a lot of time centering their differential in the chassis, using very thin shims. How exactly does one tell how much shim a diff needs? It's in an enclosed space, and I would assume this makes getting a feeler gauge in there rather tough. 2. Gear lapping/matching: This is something I actually have done. What I'm wondering about are other techniques that I may not know about. On other gearboxes I have used things like toothpaste and fire. Both work. Just wondering if anyone else has tried and succeeded with any other techniques. I'm just looking for something that will keep me up all night rebuilding my car before race day, that likely won't provide any concrete results. |
Ahhh fair enuff :)
|
that's a cool pic of the switch tony. nice find!
is it fwd? kinda looks like there's a shaft. i hate 4wd mini! 4wd belongs on the TC's RWD or FWD - FTW!! |
Originally Posted by monkeyracing
(Post 5578899)
Heya, I'm curious about a couple of practices that some mini racers use. They sound at least partially like bunk to me, but I'd like to understand a little more about this stuff.
1. Differential centering: 2. Gear lapping/matching: . |
Yup, you're right there, Tony. After spending a boring day at work yesterday and a little time late at night, I did learn a bit about gear lapping, it's benefits and downfalls. I'll keep it short.
The benefit is a smoother drive train. The downside is the possibility of the gears taking on odd profiles during the process. There are many things one can use as a lapping compound such as toothpaste, polishing compound, etc. I smeared a little toothpaste on my gears after having installed some crap bearings. I ran the car on the bench at low speed for about 15-20 minutes, took it apart and cleaned it all out. The gearbox is quieter now and runs quite smoothly. Faster? Maybe. Differential centering: I still don't know how one would figure this out. Jim |
Originally Posted by monkeyracing
(Post 5582586)
Yup, you're right there, Tony. After spending a boring day at work yesterday and a little time late at night, I did learn a bit about gear lapping, it's benefits and downfalls. I'll keep it short.
The benefit is a smoother drive train. The downside is the possibility of the gears taking on odd profiles during the process. There are many things one can use as a lapping compound such as toothpaste, polishing compound, etc. I smeared a little toothpaste on my gears after having installed some crap bearings. I ran the car on the bench at low speed for about 15-20 minutes, took it apart and cleaned it all out. The gearbox is quieter now and runs quite smoothly. Faster? Maybe. Differential centering: I still don't know how one would figure this out. Jim Spritz the gears with ArmorAll, let dry & viola, quiet, long lasting, free spiining gearbox. |
Originally Posted by mariob62
(Post 5583116)
Way too much trouble.
Spritz the gears with ArmorAll, let dry & viola, quiet, long lasting, free spiining gearbox. |
I usually don't have time to use any kind of lube. When gears are replaced it's generally between heats or batteries. When a lube is used, White Lightning is the best. A must on universals and may work on cvds, but don't know for sure as I don't run them.
|
Originally Posted by stocker
(Post 5583437)
Which ArmorAll product?
|
Quick question for you mini fans. What is the pitch of the diff gear on the mini ?
|
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:43 AM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.