Originally Posted by tony gray (Post 5246705)

Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....

Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee :sneaky:

Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower. :lol:

Originally Posted by k_h_d (Post 5245785)

The surface is carpet and smooth. So you put more than just the one spacer?

Here is a picture from rc-mini.net which shows the spacer I used. If after I add about 200g and my ride height is still not any lower then I will think about more spacers.

My toe is pretty neurtral.

Kenny

Originally Posted by tony gray (Post 5246705)

Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....

Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee :sneaky:

Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower. :lol:

Originally Posted by xrayroooahhhh (Post 5246913)

...
someone suggested to use CA on the sidewalls of the tires....I've never done that.....I understand the idea but why wouldn't you just find a front tire that washes out a little on it's own.....if that's the principle? (I'm sure someone would like to answer:)!!)
...

Originally Posted by TryHard (Post 4357725)

Hey guys,

I noticed a while back some posting about the "ring of death" that occurs on the mini front tyres with the standard links, and if there's any way to stop it. Well, I thought I'd pass on this tip given to me a while ago.

Basically, you make some adjustable upper links for the front of the car :eek:
What you need are;
TAM53892 3x10mm turnbuckle shaft
TAM53662 TT01 turnbuckle tie-rod set

Then you need to take the 4 of the 5mm connectors from the TT01 set, and remove from the end 3mm of material. Then thread in the 10mm turnbuckles, and waa-la, you have a very short adjustable upper link. Set the overall length of the link to 24mm, and you'll still have a ~1° negative camber when the car is on the ground, although this can be altered a little if you cut off more of the connector joint. Then just mount the link up using the ball connectors supplied in the TT01 set, and your good to go. (pic 1)

Having the longer front link removes most of the negative camber present on the front, this is pretty much the big contributor to the very biased front tyre wear. I've attached a pic showing how the my new front S-Grips are wearing... with the normal setup, you'd expect most of the inside treads to be worn. However, with the longer front link, the wear is smack down the middle of the tyre :D

Another good thing is this aids forward traction, simply as the tyre is more upright when in use, meaning more the contact patch can be used for acceleration. A benefit for sure with a FWD. In my eyes though, the bigger benefit is the more even wear, so longer life from the tyres :)

Originally Posted by caltek1 (Post 5244711)

k_h_d,



Make sure you turn your steering rate down on your radio. This should make the turning slower to react to your input. This will not affect your steering endpoints.

Regards,

Calvin.

Originally Posted by cannon (Post 5255967)

The idea on steering is as follows:

On a normal set up radio the steering is linear. That is you get equal steering response across the whole range of movement of the steering wheel.

For Minis, you need to reduce the steering rate to a negative exponential. That is , the movement of the steering is reduced for small movement either side of straight ahead. The steering rate increases as you turn more. This eliminates the twitchy feel around no steering input (straight ahead)

On KO radios it is called steering curve. I dont know on Futaba