Tamiya mini cooper
#7111
tyreguy,
Not sure what surface you are running on, however for bitumen, concrete I use the following.
TRF front
internal spacer
3 hole piston
TRF short yellow spring
50 wt oil
TRF rear
internal spacer
3 hole piston
TRF short yellow spring
40 wt oil oil
I also run thick swaybars front and rear. Ride height of 3/4mm front and 6mm rear. If front is to low then take up to 5mm. I also run approx 0.5 to 1 degree toe out and use Ride 3030 front tyres with a green insert and Pit Shimtzu rears with soft foam insert. Spice 32's work on the rear as well with foam insert.
Everyone seems to have a different setup for their mini's.
A great place to start with setup assistance is www.rc-mini.net/
Hope this helps.
Regards
Calvin.
Not sure what surface you are running on, however for bitumen, concrete I use the following.
TRF front
internal spacer
3 hole piston
TRF short yellow spring
50 wt oil
TRF rear
internal spacer
3 hole piston
TRF short yellow spring
40 wt oil oil
I also run thick swaybars front and rear. Ride height of 3/4mm front and 6mm rear. If front is to low then take up to 5mm. I also run approx 0.5 to 1 degree toe out and use Ride 3030 front tyres with a green insert and Pit Shimtzu rears with soft foam insert. Spice 32's work on the rear as well with foam insert.
Everyone seems to have a different setup for their mini's.
A great place to start with setup assistance is www.rc-mini.net/
Hope this helps.
Regards
Calvin.
#7113
G'day Jeff,
I tried using the Mini variety built as per instructions, however I found that there was no droop. So I went back to the normal length TRF shocks. I also found that the TRF shock collars unwind make the shocks unequal in length. These usually ended up with no pressure on the spring. I use the TRF shocks with the o ring on the shock retainer collar.
I build these to 56.5mm length front and rear. I also only change the springs on the rear for tuning. I normally run zero or one degree rear hubs. Although I have found the one degree rear hubs tweak very easily, if I have to run rear toe in I have been using the MO3R or Yeah racing 1.5's.
Hope that helps.
Calvin
I tried using the Mini variety built as per instructions, however I found that there was no droop. So I went back to the normal length TRF shocks. I also found that the TRF shock collars unwind make the shocks unequal in length. These usually ended up with no pressure on the spring. I use the TRF shocks with the o ring on the shock retainer collar.
I build these to 56.5mm length front and rear. I also only change the springs on the rear for tuning. I normally run zero or one degree rear hubs. Although I have found the one degree rear hubs tweak very easily, if I have to run rear toe in I have been using the MO3R or Yeah racing 1.5's.
Hope that helps.
Calvin
Last edited by caltek1; 08-24-2008 at 01:42 AM. Reason: xtra text
#7114

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#7115
I have been running a BL system in my Mini for sometime now. You don't have to worry about cleaning or comms drops etc.
Things to note though.
1. You are better off using the teflon coated 20 tooth pinion or you will go through a few mini spur gears. The standard alloy pinion does not hold up for long.
2. Due to more torque you will place more stress on the drive components.
3. Ensure you check your universals regularly.
4. Car pulls from corners quicker.
5. Tyre wear increases, however that comes back to how hard you mash the trigger.
I am still using the same pair of rides on the front that I fitted to the car in Mar of this year. Only changed when I ran at Castlehill due to different grip conditions. I thoroughly recommend the 3030 older style Ride tyres, great wear and grip.
BTW
I still get beaten by quick Sport tuned motors.
Regards,
calvin.
Things to note though.
1. You are better off using the teflon coated 20 tooth pinion or you will go through a few mini spur gears. The standard alloy pinion does not hold up for long.
2. Due to more torque you will place more stress on the drive components.
3. Ensure you check your universals regularly.
4. Car pulls from corners quicker.
5. Tyre wear increases, however that comes back to how hard you mash the trigger.
I am still using the same pair of rides on the front that I fitted to the car in Mar of this year. Only changed when I ran at Castlehill due to different grip conditions. I thoroughly recommend the 3030 older style Ride tyres, great wear and grip.
BTW
I still get beaten by quick Sport tuned motors.
Regards,
calvin.
#7116
The stock Tamiya ESC is actually pretty good for club racing the Minis, as long as everyone sticks with a spec driveline. If you get into a situation where people are running different motors or "tuned" (cheaters!) cans like red dots, then you may be at a slight disadvantage.
The Novak XRS is a great upgrade ESC for minis. It's affordable, very small/light, and does offer a slight upgrade from the Tamiya ESC.
Jim
The Novak XRS is a great upgrade ESC for minis. It's affordable, very small/light, and does offer a slight upgrade from the Tamiya ESC.
Jim
#7117
#7118
BMW Mini body.
There are others that are used on theMO4L, however these are not legal to run in Mini here in Aust.
See link. http://www.rc-mini.net/MiniWeb_Onlin...D7756B281E1090
Tamiya BMW M Roadster (240)
Tamiya VW (Classic) Beetle (240)
Tamiya Porsche Boxster (240)
Tamiya Mercedes SLK (240)
Tamiya BMW Mini (240)
Regards,
Calvin
There are others that are used on theMO4L, however these are not legal to run in Mini here in Aust.
See link. http://www.rc-mini.net/MiniWeb_Onlin...D7756B281E1090
Tamiya BMW M Roadster (240)
Tamiya VW (Classic) Beetle (240)
Tamiya Porsche Boxster (240)
Tamiya Mercedes SLK (240)
Tamiya BMW Mini (240)
Regards,
Calvin
#7119
BMW Mini body.
There are others that are used on theMO4L, however these are not legal to run in Mini here in Aust.
See link. http://www.rc-mini.net/MiniWeb_Onlin...D7756B281E1090
Tamiya BMW M Roadster (240)
Tamiya VW (Classic) Beetle (240)
Tamiya Porsche Boxster (240)
Tamiya Mercedes SLK (240)
Tamiya BMW Mini (240)
Regards,
Calvin
There are others that are used on theMO4L, however these are not legal to run in Mini here in Aust.
See link. http://www.rc-mini.net/MiniWeb_Onlin...D7756B281E1090
Tamiya BMW M Roadster (240)
Tamiya VW (Classic) Beetle (240)
Tamiya Porsche Boxster (240)
Tamiya Mercedes SLK (240)
Tamiya BMW Mini (240)
Regards,
Calvin
#7122
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,509
Thanks for the help whit the whole set up. The shocks I have are threaded and came with 4 white springs and 2 redish/orange springs. I will be racing on asphalt. That site you sugested is GREAT too.
tyreguy,
Not sure what surface you are running on, however for bitumen, concrete I use the following.
TRF front
internal spacer
3 hole piston
TRF short yellow spring
50 wt oil
TRF rear
internal spacer
3 hole piston
TRF short yellow spring
40 wt oil oil
I also run thick swaybars front and rear. Ride height of 3/4mm front and 6mm rear. If front is to low then take up to 5mm. I also run approx 0.5 to 1 degree toe out and use Ride 3030 front tyres with a green insert and Pit Shimtzu rears with soft foam insert. Spice 32's work on the rear as well with foam insert.
Everyone seems to have a different setup for their mini's.
A great place to start with setup assistance is www.rc-mini.net/
Hope this helps.
Regards
Calvin.
Not sure what surface you are running on, however for bitumen, concrete I use the following.
TRF front
internal spacer
3 hole piston
TRF short yellow spring
50 wt oil
TRF rear
internal spacer
3 hole piston
TRF short yellow spring
40 wt oil oil
I also run thick swaybars front and rear. Ride height of 3/4mm front and 6mm rear. If front is to low then take up to 5mm. I also run approx 0.5 to 1 degree toe out and use Ride 3030 front tyres with a green insert and Pit Shimtzu rears with soft foam insert. Spice 32's work on the rear as well with foam insert.
Everyone seems to have a different setup for their mini's.
A great place to start with setup assistance is www.rc-mini.net/
Hope this helps.
Regards
Calvin.
Last edited by tyreguy; 08-24-2008 at 05:38 AM.
#7123
A good place to start for the M03L is on the Tamiya America web site. At the top of the page you will see "articles." Click on that and then on the articles index you will see Radio Control Tech Tips. Click on that and near the bottom of the list is an article entitled "BMW Mini Building and Setup Guiide by David Beale." It's an older article but it's a good starting point. Some things have changed since then, but I still think it gives you some good basics.
#7124
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,509
A good place to start for the M03L is on the Tamiya America web site. At the top of the page you will see "articles." Click on that and then on the articles index you will see Radio Control Tech Tips. Click on that and near the bottom of the list is an article entitled "BMW Mini Building and Setup Guiide by David Beale." It's an older article but it's a good starting point. Some things have changed since then, but I still think it gives you some good basics.
just book marked it... thanks!
#7125
To me it sounds like a cheater motor. There is only so much you can get out of these cans and stay strictly within the rules (guys, please don't get technical, I'm also referring to the "spirit" of the rules) and these seems to be pushing the envelope.
Just because a tweak isn't spotted during tech, doesn't mean that it's altogether legal or moral.
Jim



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