R/C Tech Forums - Tamiya mini cooper

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thanx guys. new rules for 2008. minimum weight must be 1300 grams. i will have to weight the car and see if its worth it to run the lipo. and see how much weight i have to add. 120 grams is alot:nod:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Three (Post 4385123)

I'm a known troublemaker !!!! :lol: :nod:

You always have your clown nose into something.

hi guys,

a lil feedback on the 120g for the lipo packs - it works awesome! i took strips of steel from the tire shop and stick those to the top and bottom of the lipo. i was lucky to find steel instead of lead and also there are thin enough :nod:

got one question for gurus here:
what advantages does the universals CVD has over the stock dogbones?

thanks!

Dogbones are prone to popping out of the outdrives in a crash, or sometimes even just while you're turning hard.
And they simply don't work as well as Uni's, not as efficient.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkdut (Post 4384723)

Why mess with it? How do you know unless you try? My mini is a lead sled with the 4600 NiMh. I myself wonder if the results at SIR would have been different had I not been driving around 1470 grams.

I wonder what would have happened if you could have gotten an early gap and not had to battle with 3 other cars for the first 3 minutes of the race. He made the gap during that time and no one could make it up, but you ran comparable lap times once you got clear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by westerdude42 (Post 4385617)

If I had not had a brain fart and hit the pipe he would not have had the gap either!

my m03r under steers hugly can any one give me sum advice?

Need more info buddy....tires, suspension setup etc..

If the cars setup like our site says your car should be pretty much on the money.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkdut (Post 4385907)

If I had not had a brain fart and hit the pipe he would not have had the gap either!

Well there you go then. Brain Farts = Bad Juju:D

Quote:

Originally Posted by westerdude42 (Post 4387545)

Well there you go then. Brain Farts = Bad Juju:D

Even without hitting the pipe I am not sure I had anything for him if we both ran clean. Overall though I would call my 2nd a win based on the $ and time put into the car.

m04m problem.....

I got this particular car in a deal along with some other things.....when we were racing last night....carpet...high traction....down the back straight....the thing was nearly un-driveable:eek:....I have the stock friction dampers.....but with blue springs in the front...and lime green(soft) in the back....unlike my M03 or MO3R it sways back and forth in the back end fish tailing all over the place:tire::cry:.....any steering input and swish the other way:mad:!!! I'm sure this has something to do with the car being rear wheel drive.....but I need some help:blush:!! Hopefully this is enough info for someone to get me a little advice:)!! Thanks guys.

Ah, the M-04M.. heheh.. yeah, it can be a handful if it's not set right, but it's my favourite to race indoors..

The problem is likely your tires in the rear.. unlike the M03 where you can put the crappy stock tires in front and drag the rest of the car behind no problem, the M-04 needs high-grip rear tires like the S-Grip or Type A with the Dark-grey firm inserts..

"Soft" is a relative term, and I'm not sure what spring rate greens are, but if you have Tamiya reds (or the fluorescent reds) put them in the rear.

Be sure to sauce the whole surface of the rear tires really good with traction compound..

If you find the rear "jumpy" when accelerating, it's likely from the friction shocks.. try putting a set of your M-03's oil shocks in the rear, that'll dampen the spring action and keep the tire planted on the ground.. The fronts you can pretty well keep friction, as I have it set pretty solid, there isn't much spring action at all..

I have a setup I always use, never fails me.. end up posting a few times a year to keep it fresh for those interested in this much-maligned car.. :nod::D

Quote:

M-04M Carpet Setup

Front:
TRF Short White springs
TRF Shocks, 80 wt oil, 2-hole pistons, 2 o-rings, no rebound
S-Grips, moulded insert (hard to find), 1/3 traction compound on inside
Sway bar

Rear:
Short Fluorescent Red springs
TRF Shocks, 60 wt oil, 2-hole pistons, 3 o-rings, no rebound
Type A's, firm foam insert strip, full traction compound

5-6mm ride height all around

It's a very stiff setup in the front, and runs like a touring car.. no body roll for quick transitions, and at the same time I can run through the whole track full-throttle without flipping. If you need more steering, widen the strip of compound in the front.

Get the 2-degree rear uprights if you can, or just upgrade to the lightweight "M03M" set, it has 2 degrees already, and is very nimble.

Put the receiver and speedo on the sides like saddlebags, keeps the COG way low.

I use the Alfa body for TCS, and the HPI Miata for the other races.. love the rear wing..

That's the basis of the setup, the rest is optional.. aluminum hexes, rear universals, carbon gearshafts, TA03 Ball Diff w/ lightweight plates, aluminum screws with a few Ti in spots, but it's not that necessary.

Quote:

Originally Posted by xrayroooahhhh (Post 4395525)

Questions are you running ...

1) Rear Toe in Uprights? If not I suggest you get them
2) the black kit servo saver - if so switch to the white high torque, it has a lot less slop
3) lower your EPA on the radio as well as your dual rate a bit
4) EASE into the throttle, if you jam on it you will loop it every time.
5) don't use the brakes.

Plus, you have too much droop in the front shocks. If the car just veers back and forth in ever-larger arcs, it's the front droop. Trust me.

Thanks boys....I'll do some fine tuning:batman:.....check my droopy drawers:eek::weird:....and I'll let you know how it goes next Sunday......thanks again:D,

Roo