Tamiya mini cooper
#4562
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 224
anyone have info on the eagle racing speed tuned gearset for m3 chassis? im using it in club racing so tcs rules dont matter.do you still use stock pinion?is it still metric gearcut?if the main gear is smaller where do you set the 20t pinion for mesh?any info on older mabuchi mtr with 4 vent holes is it faster than the current one?
#4563
anyone have info on the eagle racing speed tuned gearset for m3 chassis? im using it in club racing so tcs rules dont matter.do you still use stock pinion?is it still metric gearcut?if the main gear is smaller where do you set the 20t pinion for mesh?any info on older mabuchi mtr with 4 vent holes is it faster than the current one?
#4564
what kind of ball cups/turnbuckle ends are you guys running? I am contiually snapping them off. I know that the answer is to stay off the pipes, and for the most part I do, but it doesn't take but one clean smack to snap one off.
Also, I will be replacing my second chasis this week due to the servo mount breaking on my m03. Is this because I have too much throw in the servo? I am using the white tamiya servo saver, should I switch that up to avoid this issue? please help as I have been fast with this car in the past but can't get this figured out. We are running a points series and I need to be able to finish!!!
Also, I will be replacing my second chasis this week due to the servo mount breaking on my m03. Is this because I have too much throw in the servo? I am using the white tamiya servo saver, should I switch that up to avoid this issue? please help as I have been fast with this car in the past but can't get this figured out. We are running a points series and I need to be able to finish!!!
#4565
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
what kind of ball cups/turnbuckle ends are you guys running? I am contiually snapping them off. I know that the answer is to stay off the pipes, and for the most part I do, but it doesn't take but one clean smack to snap one off.
Also, I will be replacing my second chasis this week due to the servo mount breaking on my m03. Is this because I have too much throw in the servo? I am using the white tamiya servo saver, should I switch that up to avoid this issue? please help as I have been fast with this car in the past but can't get this figured out. We are running a points series and I need to be able to finish!!!
Also, I will be replacing my second chasis this week due to the servo mount breaking on my m03. Is this because I have too much throw in the servo? I am using the white tamiya servo saver, should I switch that up to avoid this issue? please help as I have been fast with this car in the past but can't get this figured out. We are running a points series and I need to be able to finish!!!
I need to add that I don't use much servo throw, so did not have any probs with the KB servo saver
#4568
Me and a bunch of the guys that I "bash/race" minis with all run the kimbrough large servo saver. I say race/bash because we all stay on teh stand after our race and play destruction derby with our cars till the director tells us to get down for the next race or we run out of battery. We will run at each other at full bore down the straight and hit at full speed head on sometimes. Ive even seen a couple knucles break, but no balls popping off!
I have a JR z590 servo in my MO3M aSwift and replaced the stock servo mounts with a pair of xray aluminum deals from my T2. I was able to space the servo down like granpa suggested using 3 1.5 mm xray shims (total of 4.5 mm down) I used standard TC metric screws (2.5 or 3 mm or whatever fits in the xray servo posts). I am using the lowest and farthest apart holes inteh servo saver and installed standard AE ball studs in those holes. I am using the regular cheapo AE ball cups on the inside of each turnbuckle (another anodized blue AE part that I don't know the part # of . . .sorry) and am using 4-40 dubro ends on the rear-most hole on the steering knuckle. I have shimmed the dubro hardware on teh knuckle up about 6 mm or soething like that to reduce the bump steer.
I have not once popped a ball cup off with this set up. Hope that helps. Lemme know if you kneed pics or something.
I have a JR z590 servo in my MO3M aSwift and replaced the stock servo mounts with a pair of xray aluminum deals from my T2. I was able to space the servo down like granpa suggested using 3 1.5 mm xray shims (total of 4.5 mm down) I used standard TC metric screws (2.5 or 3 mm or whatever fits in the xray servo posts). I am using the lowest and farthest apart holes inteh servo saver and installed standard AE ball studs in those holes. I am using the regular cheapo AE ball cups on the inside of each turnbuckle (another anodized blue AE part that I don't know the part # of . . .sorry) and am using 4-40 dubro ends on the rear-most hole on the steering knuckle. I have shimmed the dubro hardware on teh knuckle up about 6 mm or soething like that to reduce the bump steer.
I have not once popped a ball cup off with this set up. Hope that helps. Lemme know if you kneed pics or something.
#4569
anyone have info on the eagle racing speed tuned gearset for m3 chassis? im using it in club racing so tcs rules dont matter.do you still use stock pinion?is it still metric gearcut?if the main gear is smaller where do you set the 20t pinion for mesh?any info on older mabuchi mtr with 4 vent holes is it faster than the current one?
Guess what? They know there stuff. Waste of money. Not as durable, no performance gains.
#4570
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
We also say that the stock servo saver is best too...
Why? Because stronger ones just transfer the load elsewhere and something else lets go.. i.e chassis, servo mounts, servo gears etc. Are we starting to get the picture here?
Solution, run the stock one and/or stop hitting things.
Why? Because stronger ones just transfer the load elsewhere and something else lets go.. i.e chassis, servo mounts, servo gears etc. Are we starting to get the picture here?
Solution, run the stock one and/or stop hitting things.
#4571
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 438
From: Benson Arizona
I've never had my universals pop out of my joints. I've crashed very hard also and never had a problem like that. I've also raced the stock servo saver and never broken one yet. I was thinking of putting my black Tamiya servo saver in it but it won't help me at all will it?
#4573
I've never had my universals pop out of my joints. I've crashed very hard also and never had a problem like that. I've also raced the stock servo saver and never broken one yet. I was thinking of putting my black Tamiya servo saver in it but it won't help me at all will it?
#4574
Try the X-ray TC ones. They don't break, they are a real hassle to get on and off, though. Switch to a Kimbrough # 124 Servo saver and redrill the holes for the ball closer together. put a 2.5 to 3 mm on your servo mount to space the servo lower.You won't break any more chassis( I'm assuming you mean the right side) if you mount the servo mount with 3x20mm machine screw and place a nut on the end.
I need to add that I don't use much servo throw, so did not have any probs with the KB servo saver
I need to add that I don't use much servo throw, so did not have any probs with the KB servo saver
Well it is the left side that keeps breaking, As tony said...quit hitting stuff...but I am such a natural at that!!!! I have been using X-ray ends with a steel pivot ball and they just keep snapping, I may try using a standard ball cup if I can't get this straightened out.
Part of the problem might be that I bought this car used so I don't have all of the original parts of the kit. I am sure there are modifications that have been made that I am not aware of that are leading to this.
#4575
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Well it is the left side that keeps breaking, As tony said...quit hitting stuff...but I am such a natural at that!!!! I have been using X-ray ends with a steel pivot ball and they just keep snapping, I may try using a standard ball cup if I can't get this straightened out.
Part of the problem might be that I bought this car used so I don't have all of the original parts of the kit. I am sure there are modifications that have been made that I am not aware of that are leading to this.
Part of the problem might be that I bought this car used so I don't have all of the original parts of the kit. I am sure there are modifications that have been made that I am not aware of that are leading to this.



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