Tamiya mini cooper
#3016
Originally Posted by Difuser
Wow this thread moved on a bit last night.
On the TRF shocks I like them because the shock is more precise. With the teflon piston fitting alot tighter to the shock body. While I agree that CVA's work close to the same and are lighter, the tolerance and resulting weight of oil having to be run stiffer I just flat do not like. I run generally around a 30-40wt oil period. I will vary the piston hole to get the balance and weight shift to where I prefer. With the CVA you have to run around an 80wt to get close to the same but with the blowby and the larger hole it just is not the same.
For the tires I do not have heaps of carpet experience here. David Weir who posted above is the man there. He is a regular at Trackside along with one whose hat is always there in the Nationals game. What I have found in the past is the the worse the tire the better the grip. I found the Mgrip tire on the rear and an S or A to be the hot ticket at Worlds. This was on the M04M. For insert I liked the black foam front and rear. It just sucked I found this in the last Main as the track changes so much over the 4 days that it is very tough to understand the car.
With Trackside allowing compound this might change a touch but it should be pretty similar.
As for my pedigree I am just an over the hill racer/business owner that still likes to offer the info I have learned racing. I like to think it helps others meet their goals. No Ego here and I certainly don;t need brownnosing. Madjack pointed out a fact nothing more, not all the people posting here know that in the last 15 posts or so you have 3 of the last 4 Mini National Champ winners from 2002 to present here offering help for those who want it.
Any of you going to be at 'Birds come over and say hello. Look for the Slapmaster Team in 12scale
On the TRF shocks I like them because the shock is more precise. With the teflon piston fitting alot tighter to the shock body. While I agree that CVA's work close to the same and are lighter, the tolerance and resulting weight of oil having to be run stiffer I just flat do not like. I run generally around a 30-40wt oil period. I will vary the piston hole to get the balance and weight shift to where I prefer. With the CVA you have to run around an 80wt to get close to the same but with the blowby and the larger hole it just is not the same.
For the tires I do not have heaps of carpet experience here. David Weir who posted above is the man there. He is a regular at Trackside along with one whose hat is always there in the Nationals game. What I have found in the past is the the worse the tire the better the grip. I found the Mgrip tire on the rear and an S or A to be the hot ticket at Worlds. This was on the M04M. For insert I liked the black foam front and rear. It just sucked I found this in the last Main as the track changes so much over the 4 days that it is very tough to understand the car.
With Trackside allowing compound this might change a touch but it should be pretty similar.
As for my pedigree I am just an over the hill racer/business owner that still likes to offer the info I have learned racing. I like to think it helps others meet their goals. No Ego here and I certainly don;t need brownnosing. Madjack pointed out a fact nothing more, not all the people posting here know that in the last 15 posts or so you have 3 of the last 4 Mini National Champ winners from 2002 to present here offering help for those who want it.
Any of you going to be at 'Birds come over and say hello. Look for the Slapmaster Team in 12scale
Cool, thanks for the info and I wasn't trying to stir up trouble and everyone is very helpful.
I think I just got a bad taste in my mouth from a few folks in another forum regarding ROAR rules changes being considered that would have made everything I own unuseable and forced me to spend hundreds of $$$ to get new stuff and I was told that since a sponsored national champion supported the change that I should just shut up. Since then, I've been a little quick on the draw and perhaps I should just calm down...
#3017
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Difuser
For the tires I do not have heaps of carpet experience here. David Weir who posted above is the man there. He is a regular at Trackside along with one whose hat is always there in the Nationals game. What I have found in the past is the the worse the tire the better the grip. I found the Mgrip tire on the rear and an S or A to be the hot ticket at Worlds. This was on the M04M. For insert I liked the black foam front and rear. It just sucked I found this in the last Main as the track changes so much over the 4 days that it is very tough to understand the car.
With Trackside allowing compound this might change a touch but it should be pretty similar.
With Trackside allowing compound this might change a touch but it should be pretty similar.
Yep, IMO, M's in the rear is the ticket for either M03 or M04 on carpet. Generally I use a decent air gap in the rear, thus I tend to favor the now discontinued black shaped m inserts (I still have a couple pair, I keep reusing them). A close equivilent is to take a 24mm black sedan shaped insert and cut it down in length to match the now discontinued mini insert. Width is fine.
On carpet, when traction can get quite high and can induce roll over tendencies, I think the key is a very full tire up front - a trick I learned from Diffuser. No air gap, solid sidewall tire (by stuffing the tire with insertS)- keeps the front tire sidewall from flexing over, which is what seems to induce the roll.
#3018
Originally Posted by Tomoyuki
Well i havent bought any shocks yet.. so i mite go wif plastic oil shocks first... anyway wad should the M03M front suspension conversion consist of?
This converts front and rear Suspension. The rear has 2 degree of toe, where as stock does not.
#3019
Originally Posted by Steven Key
I have a couple questions for all you Mini experts.
1. Are the suspension parts #50736 (TL01 B Parts) the same as the Suzuki Swift #51238 (M03m F Parts)?
2. Are the rear blocks on the #50736 parts tree the same as #51238 and do they have 2 degree toe in?
1. Are the suspension parts #50736 (TL01 B Parts) the same as the Suzuki Swift #51238 (M03m F Parts)?
2. Are the rear blocks on the #50736 parts tree the same as #51238 and do they have 2 degree toe in?
Also not mentioned, 50736 has 0 degree rear uprights. Most people have to get the hop up part when they run the older suspension. with the swift suspension (51238) you do not need to purchase toe in rear uprights, as rear on this tree has 2 degree
#3020
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Nothing about the Swift (51238) is similar to the older uprights (50736). the 51238 are all the suspension parts that they upgraded on the swift, get the 51238 and some 10 x 5 bearings and your set.
For those of you how are at Trackside, you are welcome to come by and see it in action, and I have some of the rubber stuff in my pit box.
#3022
Originally Posted by MrLesac
hey, i made something that my be useful to mini painters.
#3024
Originally Posted by MrLesac
i think there is one under the painting and design forum, under the templates topic. if there isnt let me know, and i can make one
#3025
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Asphalt Unlimited Customs, Baltimore MD
Posts: 3,144
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
yeah, i had scoobydoo make one for the tamiya rover cooper and the Beamer version. Nice job there MrLesac!
#3026
battery pack Question
Hey fellas,
What packs would you recommend for on road bashing and long run times for an M03?
Cheers.
What packs would you recommend for on road bashing and long run times for an M03?
Cheers.
#3028
Originally Posted by wallyburger
Hey fellas,
What packs would you recommend for on road bashing and long run times for an M03?
Cheers.
What packs would you recommend for on road bashing and long run times for an M03?
Cheers.
#3029
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (54)
Quick question on the gear diff.
Now, before everyone tells me to get a ball diff...I already have one. I've heard that some guys occasionally use the gear diff on carpet. What I want to know is if I use the gear diff, how tight should it be? Locked? Just able to rotate? Just curious.
Now, before everyone tells me to get a ball diff...I already have one. I've heard that some guys occasionally use the gear diff on carpet. What I want to know is if I use the gear diff, how tight should it be? Locked? Just able to rotate? Just curious.
#3030
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Originally Posted by CSeils
Quick question on the gear diff.
Now, before everyone tells me to get a ball diff...I already have one. I've heard that some guys occasionally use the gear diff on carpet. What I want to know is if I use the gear diff, how tight should it be? Locked? Just able to rotate? Just curious.
Now, before everyone tells me to get a ball diff...I already have one. I've heard that some guys occasionally use the gear diff on carpet. What I want to know is if I use the gear diff, how tight should it be? Locked? Just able to rotate? Just curious.
Peace Aaron(W-W)