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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 01-18-2007, 10:44 AM
  #3016  
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Originally Posted by Difuser
Wow this thread moved on a bit last night.

On the TRF shocks I like them because the shock is more precise. With the teflon piston fitting alot tighter to the shock body. While I agree that CVA's work close to the same and are lighter, the tolerance and resulting weight of oil having to be run stiffer I just flat do not like. I run generally around a 30-40wt oil period. I will vary the piston hole to get the balance and weight shift to where I prefer. With the CVA you have to run around an 80wt to get close to the same but with the blowby and the larger hole it just is not the same.

For the tires I do not have heaps of carpet experience here. David Weir who posted above is the man there. He is a regular at Trackside along with one whose hat is always there in the Nationals game. What I have found in the past is the the worse the tire the better the grip. I found the Mgrip tire on the rear and an S or A to be the hot ticket at Worlds. This was on the M04M. For insert I liked the black foam front and rear. It just sucked I found this in the last Main as the track changes so much over the 4 days that it is very tough to understand the car.

With Trackside allowing compound this might change a touch but it should be pretty similar.

As for my pedigree I am just an over the hill racer/business owner that still likes to offer the info I have learned racing. I like to think it helps others meet their goals. No Ego here and I certainly don;t need brownnosing. Madjack pointed out a fact nothing more, not all the people posting here know that in the last 15 posts or so you have 3 of the last 4 Mini National Champ winners from 2002 to present here offering help for those who want it.

Any of you going to be at 'Birds come over and say hello. Look for the Slapmaster Team in 12scale

Cool, thanks for the info and I wasn't trying to stir up trouble and everyone is very helpful.

I think I just got a bad taste in my mouth from a few folks in another forum regarding ROAR rules changes being considered that would have made everything I own unuseable and forced me to spend hundreds of $$$ to get new stuff and I was told that since a sponsored national champion supported the change that I should just shut up. Since then, I've been a little quick on the draw and perhaps I should just calm down...
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Difuser
For the tires I do not have heaps of carpet experience here. David Weir who posted above is the man there. He is a regular at Trackside along with one whose hat is always there in the Nationals game. What I have found in the past is the the worse the tire the better the grip. I found the Mgrip tire on the rear and an S or A to be the hot ticket at Worlds. This was on the M04M. For insert I liked the black foam front and rear. It just sucked I found this in the last Main as the track changes so much over the 4 days that it is very tough to understand the car.

With Trackside allowing compound this might change a touch but it should be pretty similar.
Many thanks for the compliment, diffuser.

Yep, IMO, M's in the rear is the ticket for either M03 or M04 on carpet. Generally I use a decent air gap in the rear, thus I tend to favor the now discontinued black shaped m inserts (I still have a couple pair, I keep reusing them). A close equivilent is to take a 24mm black sedan shaped insert and cut it down in length to match the now discontinued mini insert. Width is fine.

On carpet, when traction can get quite high and can induce roll over tendencies, I think the key is a very full tire up front - a trick I learned from Diffuser. No air gap, solid sidewall tire (by stuffing the tire with insertS)- keeps the front tire sidewall from flexing over, which is what seems to induce the roll.
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Old 01-18-2007, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Tomoyuki
Well i havent bought any shocks yet.. so i mite go wif plastic oil shocks first... anyway wad should the M03M front suspension conversion consist of?
51238, and 8 qty 10mm x 5mm bearings (51239)
This converts front and rear Suspension. The rear has 2 degree of toe, where as stock does not.
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Old 01-18-2007, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Steven Key
I have a couple questions for all you Mini experts.

1. Are the suspension parts #50736 (TL01 B Parts) the same as the Suzuki Swift #51238 (M03m F Parts)?

2. Are the rear blocks on the #50736 parts tree the same as #51238 and do they have 2 degree toe in?
Nothing about the Swift (51238) is similar to the older uprights (50736). the 51238 are all the suspension parts that they upgraded on the swift, get the 51238 and some 10 x 5 bearings and your set.

Also not mentioned, 50736 has 0 degree rear uprights. Most people have to get the hop up part when they run the older suspension. with the swift suspension (51238) you do not need to purchase toe in rear uprights, as rear on this tree has 2 degree
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Old 01-19-2007, 06:08 AM
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Nothing about the Swift (51238) is similar to the older uprights (50736). the 51238 are all the suspension parts that they upgraded on the swift, get the 51238 and some 10 x 5 bearings and your set.
tamiyarcracer, thanks for the reply, the parts do look simliar on the picture now I know they arent'.

For those of you how are at Trackside, you are welcome to come by and see it in action, and I have some of the rubber stuff in my pit box.
Dave, I will have to come by next Tuesday and check out your rubber stuff. Sounds like a really good idea.
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Old 01-19-2007, 06:39 AM
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hey, i made something that my be useful to mini painters.
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Old 01-19-2007, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by MrLesac
hey, i made something that my be useful to mini painters.
That rocks..now if we only had one for the real Mini....
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Old 01-19-2007, 07:39 AM
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i think there is one under the painting and design forum, under the templates topic. if there isnt let me know, and i can make one
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Old 01-19-2007, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MrLesac
i think there is one under the painting and design forum, under the templates topic. if there isnt let me know, and i can make one
You know, I had no idea that was there...thanks.
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:05 PM
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yeah, i had scoobydoo make one for the tamiya rover cooper and the Beamer version. Nice job there MrLesac!
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:11 PM
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Default battery pack Question

Hey fellas,

What packs would you recommend for on road bashing and long run times for an M03?

Cheers.
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:27 PM
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we can run about 16 minutes on our spec venom 3000 packs we have to run at our track with the kit motor.
running an unmatched 4200 i can get over 20 minutes of run time
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:36 PM
  #3028  
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Originally Posted by wallyburger
Hey fellas,

What packs would you recommend for on road bashing and long run times for an M03?

Cheers.
Team Orion 3200 Lipo will give you the best run times and will also not require discharging...cooling or any other battery maintainance. Guys at our track are using roughly 600mah over a 5 minute race so that should equate to 30+ minutes of runtime. Plus, they are lighter and offer more consistent performance AND they won't need replacing in a few months.
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Old 01-19-2007, 01:01 PM
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Quick question on the gear diff.

Now, before everyone tells me to get a ball diff...I already have one. I've heard that some guys occasionally use the gear diff on carpet. What I want to know is if I use the gear diff, how tight should it be? Locked? Just able to rotate? Just curious.
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Old 01-19-2007, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by CSeils
Quick question on the gear diff.

Now, before everyone tells me to get a ball diff...I already have one. I've heard that some guys occasionally use the gear diff on carpet. What I want to know is if I use the gear diff, how tight should it be? Locked? Just able to rotate? Just curious.
Just able to rotate I think carl. I think per the rules it can't actually be locked. Maybe someone else knows exactly.

Peace Aaron(W-W)
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