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-   -   Tamiya mini cooper (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/20068-tamiya-mini-cooper.html)

Toyota Tom 06-26-2017 04:05 PM

Build notes M-07
 
A few notes from my build. The motor plate hole is too small for a
24 pinion. A round file fixes that issue. The left front chassis brace
won't allow a brushless motor, no room to solder the ESC wires. Left
that brace off. The stock plastic shocks use a 28 mm shock shaft. If you
are trying to use the short option shocks, they are not long enough.
You can use the long shafts from the kit, or use the front M-07 shock tower
on the rear, and for the front, I modified the M-05R rear graphite shock
tower for use on the front of the MO-7. In both cases, the shock tower's ball stud holes are about 2mm lower than the stock M-07's. Also the after market non-Tamiya 35 and 33 spur gears are a perfect fit. Although you don't have to split the chassis to work on the gears, You still have to disassemble the front of the car. The kit diff oil is not labeled but in the directions it indicates 100,000K. In any case, I used 30,000K. We will see how it runs next week.

Laguna Bozo 06-26-2017 05:09 PM

Could you please explain what "after market non-Tamiya 35 and 33 spur gears" are?

gigaplex 06-26-2017 05:18 PM


Originally Posted by Laguna Bozo (Post 14961751)
Could you please explain what "after market non-Tamiya 35 and 33 spur gears" are?

Third party spur gears with different tooth counts - stock is 37. Commonly referred to as speed tuned gears.

monkeyracing 06-26-2017 06:18 PM

The word you're looking for is "cheater" gears. I've got some nice delrin ones. ;)

Build is going well. Bearings are filled with rendered hog fat out of the box. Sticky.

torg 06-26-2017 06:22 PM


Originally Posted by howardcano (Post 14959195)
380 brushless motors tend to have less torque but more RPM than 540 brushless, which is exactly what a mini needs.

So this why the TA-05 M-four is the most awesome mini ever...:nod:

monkeyracing 06-26-2017 07:07 PM


Originally Posted by torg (Post 14961829)
So this why the TA-05 M-four is the most awesome mini ever...:nod:

Someone pass me the ban-hammer.

Laguna Bozo 06-26-2017 07:30 PM

Thanks guys for the "cheater" info. i didn't know the M07 gears were the same as 3/5/6.

gigaplex 06-26-2017 07:48 PM


Originally Posted by Laguna Bozo (Post 14961887)
Thanks guys for the "cheater" info. i didn't know the M07 gears were the same as 3/5/6.

The spur is the same but the rest are different.

nova2015 06-26-2017 08:17 PM

So if I've seen correctly elsewhere, a 20T pinion in the M07 gives same FDR as previous M-Chassis cars? I'm thinking of compatibility within the class with older cars.

monkeyracing 06-26-2017 08:38 PM


Originally Posted by nova2015 (Post 14961925)
So if I've seen correctly elsewhere, a 20T pinion in the M07 gives same FDR as previous M-Chassis cars? I'm thinking of compatibility within the class with older cars.

Yep. Difference of 0.01% That's less than tire wear.

eR1c 06-27-2017 11:10 AM

so w/ a 24t pinion the M07 should be much faster than the best M05's ...shoot, ..my M07 is on order and will not have it built for my next race. ...I know a few guys are already running the M07's at my track for our next race .... double rats :( :(

dmcguire 06-27-2017 11:21 AM

I'm not sure if I missed it, but for TCS races, is there a pinion limit for the M07 to keep the playing field level with the M03 and M05?

KA2AEV 06-27-2017 01:16 PM


Originally Posted by monkeyracing (Post 14961872)
Someone pass me the ban-hammer.

Here you can have mine, I have two of them and don't need both of them!

http://i1.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/.../BANHAMMER.png

monkeyracing 06-27-2017 03:22 PM


Originally Posted by dmcguire (Post 14962433)
I'm not sure if I missed it, but for TCS races, is there a pinion limit for the M07 to keep the playing field level with the M03 and M05?

I think it's safe to assume TCS will limit the pinion to 20t max. It's very easy to check on the M07. The little hatch covering the pinion just pops right off.

Weird thing from my build - tried using the heavy duty rear axles, like you'd use on any other mini. They caused a very slight binding for some reason. I tried removing shims, different bearings, different set of he axles, etc, but the only way to get smooth axles was to run the kit ones. The funny part is I can't see any diffrence between the old and new. Weird.

MORE: Motor fitment is a bit of a pig. Ended up filing a little bit to make room for wires for Hobbywing 13t style motor. I'm guessing at some point, someone will come up with a replacement stiffener bar for that spot that's bent differently. Fitting the rear suspension mounts requires minor juggling abilities. Oh, the thing with accessing the gearbox by undoing 8 screws also requires popping off upper links, steering links, swaybar link and dampers. I think you could do some work with just the screws out, but it's tricky.

Still, I like this car so far. Nice plastics, stiff chassis. Still pondering shorty battery attachment.

TheOtherBill 06-28-2017 06:38 AM

What body are you guys going to use for your MO-7s?


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