Tamiya mini cooper
#2656
Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer
other than the decks, belts, bulkheads. what is common with any tamiya car on the Tech?? (diffs) uni's?
TAMIYA 50882, TA04 KING PINS SET - 150yen
TAMIYA 51236, SUZUKI SWIFT SPARE BODY PARTS SET - 3200yen
TAMIYA 51238 M03M F parts - 700yen
TAMIYA 51239 1050 BALL BEARINGS(4Pcs) x2 @ 500yen = 1000yen
TAMIYA 53255 M-CHASSIS 60D INNER SPONGE HARD(4PCS.) = 250yen
TAMIYA 53340 M-CHASSIS 60D REINFORCED TIRES TYPE-A(1PAIR) x2 @ 1100yen = 2200yen
TAMIYA 53341 MINI COOPER REINFORCED WHEELS(1PAIR)x2 @ 550yen = 1100yen
TAMIYA 53571 TRF DAMPER 4PCS FL COAT = 5800yen
TAMIYA 53597 M03 ASSEMBLY UNIVERSAL SHAFTx 2 @ 2000yen = 4000yen
TAMIYA 50793 M03 C PARTS(SUSPENSION ARM) = 900yen
TAMIYA 53301 TL01 STAILESS STEEL SUSPENSION SHAFT SET = 400 yen
Total cost: 49500 yen ($420USD or $535AUD) … and that's without hex drives or wheel nuts to hold the wheels on!
I suppose you could do it a bit cheaper by not using trf shocks.
I'm not sure if you can use belts off any of the Tamiya cars on it, or even if the diffs would be similar to a TA05 or 415, they look similar but I can't say for sure that they would fit.
All the Tamiya parts listed are needed just to get the thing running, so if any of them break it'd be easy to get spares for.
I never drove mine, it looked to be a really nice car, but I found it a hassle to work on.
The instructions could have been better, Tech supply ball joints/pivot balls that are a different size to the Tamiya ones, 4.3mm dia versus the Tamiya 5mm dia, which means if you want to run tamiya turnbuckle ends you then have to replace the Tech ball joints with Tamiya items. I mounted a motor in there and couldn't get the pinions that I had to mesh fully with the spur, I needed to use a few of those motor gaskets that come with the M03 to space the motor out so the pinion teeth would make full contact with the spur teeth. Changing the spur was easy as the layshaft only attaches via 1 screw to the alloy motor mount. I'm sure like any car, if you work on it long enough you'd get used to its quirks. Sorry for the long post
#2657
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
Originally Posted by Wicked-Wayz
Well atleast someone thinks so. I haven't run mini since the tcs. Will be fun again this year. The problems with steering sucked bad. I am just hoping I don't break something. All the team medicore guys coming this year. I guess I could say I am just good enough for the c main.
Peace Aaron(W-W)
Peace Aaron(W-W)
nah, you will be fine!
i am gonna make some decals for the rear windows, "Courtesy Car", since most of the guys here borrowed a Mini from me so they can run two classes... should be a hoot...
Wes
#2658
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
mini
Originally Posted by Wicked-Wayz
Yes, I will be running mini again. I am ready for my beat down already. In my mains last year I got my steering fixed. Hopefully this year it will be other issues instead. I know I shouldn't say that but I always have issues.
Peace Aaron(W-W)
Peace Aaron(W-W)
#2659
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Originally Posted by Turbonium
nah, you will be fine!
Wes
Wes
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I have yet to race mine as well like to see how the M03M is going to work just ordered a battery for it hope it's as fast or faster than my M03L ....be nice if the handout motors make it this time I'm running 3 classes looking for a lot of tracktime!!!!
Peace Aaron(W-W)
#2660
Originally Posted by Tim K
Tech Racing Mini M03 M Conversion kit: 29800Yen
TAMIYA 50882, TA04 KING PINS SET - 150yen
TAMIYA 51236, SUZUKI SWIFT SPARE BODY PARTS SET - 3200yen
TAMIYA 51238 M03M F parts - 700yen
TAMIYA 51239 1050 BALL BEARINGS(4Pcs) x2 @ 500yen = 1000yen
TAMIYA 53255 M-CHASSIS 60D INNER SPONGE HARD(4PCS.) = 250yen
TAMIYA 53340 M-CHASSIS 60D REINFORCED TIRES TYPE-A(1PAIR) x2 @ 1100yen = 2200yen
TAMIYA 53341 MINI COOPER REINFORCED WHEELS(1PAIR)x2 @ 550yen = 1100yen
TAMIYA 53571 TRF DAMPER 4PCS FL COAT = 5800yen
TAMIYA 53597 M03 ASSEMBLY UNIVERSAL SHAFTx 2 @ 2000yen = 4000yen
TAMIYA 50793 M03 C PARTS(SUSPENSION ARM) = 900yen
TAMIYA 53301 TL01 STAILESS STEEL SUSPENSION SHAFT SET = 400 yen
Total cost: 49500 yen ($420USD or $535AUD) … and that's without hex drives or wheel nuts to hold the wheels on!
I suppose you could do it a bit cheaper by not using trf shocks.
I'm not sure if you can use belts off any of the Tamiya cars on it, or even if the diffs would be similar to a TA05 or 415, they look similar but I can't say for sure that they would fit.
All the Tamiya parts listed are needed just to get the thing running, so if any of them break it'd be easy to get spares for.
I never drove mine, it looked to be a really nice car, but I found it a hassle to work on.
The instructions could have been better, Tech supply ball joints/pivot balls that are a different size to the Tamiya ones, 4.3mm dia versus the Tamiya 5mm dia, which means if you want to run tamiya turnbuckle ends you then have to replace the Tech ball joints with Tamiya items. I mounted a motor in there and couldn't get the pinions that I had to mesh fully with the spur, I needed to use a few of those motor gaskets that come with the M03 to space the motor out so the pinion teeth would make full contact with the spur teeth. Changing the spur was easy as the layshaft only attaches via 1 screw to the alloy motor mount. I'm sure like any car, if you work on it long enough you'd get used to its quirks. Sorry for the long post
TAMIYA 50882, TA04 KING PINS SET - 150yen
TAMIYA 51236, SUZUKI SWIFT SPARE BODY PARTS SET - 3200yen
TAMIYA 51238 M03M F parts - 700yen
TAMIYA 51239 1050 BALL BEARINGS(4Pcs) x2 @ 500yen = 1000yen
TAMIYA 53255 M-CHASSIS 60D INNER SPONGE HARD(4PCS.) = 250yen
TAMIYA 53340 M-CHASSIS 60D REINFORCED TIRES TYPE-A(1PAIR) x2 @ 1100yen = 2200yen
TAMIYA 53341 MINI COOPER REINFORCED WHEELS(1PAIR)x2 @ 550yen = 1100yen
TAMIYA 53571 TRF DAMPER 4PCS FL COAT = 5800yen
TAMIYA 53597 M03 ASSEMBLY UNIVERSAL SHAFTx 2 @ 2000yen = 4000yen
TAMIYA 50793 M03 C PARTS(SUSPENSION ARM) = 900yen
TAMIYA 53301 TL01 STAILESS STEEL SUSPENSION SHAFT SET = 400 yen
Total cost: 49500 yen ($420USD or $535AUD) … and that's without hex drives or wheel nuts to hold the wheels on!
I suppose you could do it a bit cheaper by not using trf shocks.
I'm not sure if you can use belts off any of the Tamiya cars on it, or even if the diffs would be similar to a TA05 or 415, they look similar but I can't say for sure that they would fit.
All the Tamiya parts listed are needed just to get the thing running, so if any of them break it'd be easy to get spares for.
I never drove mine, it looked to be a really nice car, but I found it a hassle to work on.
The instructions could have been better, Tech supply ball joints/pivot balls that are a different size to the Tamiya ones, 4.3mm dia versus the Tamiya 5mm dia, which means if you want to run tamiya turnbuckle ends you then have to replace the Tech ball joints with Tamiya items. I mounted a motor in there and couldn't get the pinions that I had to mesh fully with the spur, I needed to use a few of those motor gaskets that come with the M03 to space the motor out so the pinion teeth would make full contact with the spur teeth. Changing the spur was easy as the layshaft only attaches via 1 screw to the alloy motor mount. I'm sure like any car, if you work on it long enough you'd get used to its quirks. Sorry for the long post
#2662
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
It's a Chevron Models Monster M body. Currently out of stock pretty much everywhere except here Jasons Store on ebay. He is pretty pricey though.
Rainbow Ten usually have them but they sell out VERY quickly.
Rainbow Ten usually have them but they sell out VERY quickly.
Last edited by tony gray; 08-06-2008 at 01:07 AM.
#2663
real mini-cooper versus brushless electric touring car... terrible ending (broke my heart) but probably faked
http://mazdeathblossom.blogspot.com/...ro-rc-car.html
http://mazdeathblossom.blogspot.com/...ro-rc-car.html
#2664
servos
Just wanted to know what kind of servos you guys are using on your minis. Currently using basic futaba S3003 but wanna go with digital servo next. Its not talked about much on this thread.
#2665
S3003 should be fine ... I run the Futaba 9550 cos it's cool
#2666
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by akura2
real mini-cooper versus brushless electric touring car... terrible ending (broke my heart) but probably faked
http://mazdeathblossom.blogspot.com/...ro-rc-car.html
http://mazdeathblossom.blogspot.com/...ro-rc-car.html
#2667
Originally Posted by Tim K
Tech Racing Mini M03 M Conversion kit: 29800Yen
........
TAMIYA 53571 TRF DAMPER 4PCS FL COAT = 5800yen
.......
........
TAMIYA 53571 TRF DAMPER 4PCS FL COAT = 5800yen
.......
Few questions :
1.
How's the quality of the bulkhead ? Is it plastic (hard or soft) or alum ?
2.
About the ball diff, is the center pulley interchangable with TA05 (white pulley) or TA04( black pulley) ? Also the diff joint is it interchangable with TRF 414 / 415 / TA05 ?
3.
What's the thickness of upper, lower deck, fr and rear twr
4.
Could you post the assembly manual, the one I get (from Tony, I think) it's low res... I can't see it clearly.... ?
Thx.
#2668
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Questions, questions, questions!
1 - No dampers... None in the kit at all so you have to buy some for sure. This is one of our main complaints about the kit. For the money that part sucks! And the bulkheads are hard plastic, nothing flash.
2 - Diff pulleys... Well I dont have any TA05 bits, but I do have an 04 diff and the centre pulley looks near as dammit identical to it
3 - All the carbon is 2mm
4 - I've uploaded a better copy of the manual here I'll leave it here for a few days then take it down.
Tony
1 - No dampers... None in the kit at all so you have to buy some for sure. This is one of our main complaints about the kit. For the money that part sucks! And the bulkheads are hard plastic, nothing flash.
2 - Diff pulleys... Well I dont have any TA05 bits, but I do have an 04 diff and the centre pulley looks near as dammit identical to it
3 - All the carbon is 2mm
4 - I've uploaded a better copy of the manual here I'll leave it here for a few days then take it down.
Tony
Last edited by tony gray; 12-20-2006 at 12:25 AM.
#2670
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
I think a lot of people use the cheapy ESC that comes with the kits now, and it has reverse (although you can set it to off)
Certainly in most racing use of reverse is not allowed.
Certainly in most racing use of reverse is not allowed.