Can someone tell me which steel pinions to use on the M03 ?

Robinson Racing is the place to go for steel pinions!:tire:

You need to get tamiya steel 20t pinion gears only... They have a different pitch than the regular 48p gears... They are 48p metric, not 48p... The gearset number is (#50356).....

Robinson Racing part # 1120. Quite good. Kawada makes a very nice hardened aluminum pinion. Worth checking out.

Made a mistake today. I'm low in parts because my LHS blows goats, so I decided to trust the wellbeing of my mini to a Tamiya HD servo saver. It was complete crap. It failed exactly as every one I've ever tried, on any car. I'm ordering some Kimbroughs, unless anyone knows of something better.

On the plus side, I drive the hell out of my car and the Pit tires aren't showing any wear. Really good, predictable traction, too. I would've burned through a few sets of S Grips over the past few race days I've attended.

48pitch 0.6 pinions work great.

Not sure why people have issues with the Tamiya High torque servo savers. :confused:
I use at least 8-9 on my various cars and trucks no issue. Maybe it's the aluminum horn? I only use the plastic horn that comes with the servo saver and make extensions..except for the V2 that came with an aluminum horn.

They are 0.6 module and have no relation to 48p at all, no matter what Robinson prints on the label.

I heard Tamiya was reissuing the Mazda Roadster...nope. Whole new deal. Very nice.

Is that roadster a m-chassis? That would be very cool.

I know they cost a small fortune, but the Xray Servo Saver is the best you can buy. I use them on everything.

I am sure this has been answered in the 1709 pages of this thread, BUT it would take way too long to find my answer through all the valuable information ..so here it goes.

I raced my Mini yesterday. First qualifying race got 3rd out of 11 racers. I adjusted my camber front and rear from about 3degree rear to 1degree and 2degree front to 1degree. I was trying to achieve a higher top speed by straightening my tires. I got 4th place with this adjustment in the next qualifying round ...my rear end was a bit too loose and was loosing grip around high speed corners ..this threw me off and I had to adjust my driving style mid race. Yet my car did feel a tad bit faster to me on the straights w/ this adjustment. Going into the A-Mains I decided to go to a 1/2way adjustment between my original settings going for something between my original camber settings and what I tried in that 2nd round.

Ended up using 2 degree rear and 1.5 degree front for my camber settings. This seemed to work very well, I had a bit more speed yet I had the grip I wanted. Ended the A's w/ a 3rd spot. (was happy about that).

My question:
I've been running 3degree toe in in the rear all season. Unfortunately to adjust this you have to purchase an entire hub assembly. I believe that my extreme 3 degree toe in is causing too much side-rub (for lack of better word) on the straights and not allowing the full speed I could achieve. What can I expect if I switch to 1 degree toe in in the rear? What will happen to my handling?
Tamiya offers an alumin 1 degree hub, -it's $40 ouch! ...so I'd like to know what I could expect before I spend the $$ on this. Also, what is the toe-in degree for the stock plastic hubs? (I don't have my stock hubs ...gave them to a racer on the track who broke his). Figured I didn't need them and didn't mind helping someone else out. If the stock ones are 1 degree or 1.5 I could purchase those instead as I am sure they are a lot less than $40.

thanks!

Eric,

I haven't found a need, on any surface, for 3 degs of toe in on the rear. On carpet, with great traction, we run 1.5 for the most part. Your right, the more toe in, the more 'scrub'. Id recommend changing to 2 deg right away. (Are you stuck with Tamiya only? if not, get one of the aftermarket ones. They work fine for a lot less money). 2 Deg should be good for your car, no matter what surface, and 1.5 is something you can try.

As for Camber, 2 degs in the rear is what I set up almost every car with, and hardly touch it. I do adjust the front, to get the right balance between the f and r grip. I suggest 1 deg up front to start, and make changes from there, to see the effect.

I was able to find a new gray M-03 chassis through Towerhobbies. Does anyone know if you can still buy a new black M-03 chassis without buying from an individual?

Ebay is probably your best bet. Banzai Hobby may have them as well, but it'll take some digging.

THANYOU! -For confirming my suspicions. I feel silly/embarrassed about this, but honestly hadn't checked the rear toe-in for at least a year. I suspect it's been hurting me. I think because the M05 and V2 don't allow for easy adjustment I never really looked at it. Okay, I am definitely ordering a 1.5 or 2 set today. We run TCS rules, -I'd hate to be disqualified for something like this, so yeah, i'll stick w/ Tamiya brand. I can get the part for $29 from RCmart ...so not as bad as locally. I think I may go w/ 1.5 if they have it in stock. Thanks again for the info.

Have a search for Tamiya part number 53345, it was an optional 2 deg rear hub for the M03. Plastic part so about a tenth the cost of alloy.

The alloy options are

54327 Alloy 1.0 deg rear hub.
54178 Alloy 1.5 deg rear hub.
54267 Alloy 2.0 deg rear hub.

You also have 54532 which is the alloy suspension mount which gives an additional 1.0 degree toe in over the standard plastic part which is 0 deg.

Try one of the German shops for the Carson gears. These are from good quality steel, cheap and last forever.
for example: http://tamico.de/Pinion-Modul-06