I'd be more concerned for the pavement than the tire. :)

But seriously, sometimes a harder compound can have shorter life than a softer compound, since it slides more. It will depend on the surface.

Did any of you ever try those blocky looking, super cheap, 3Racing tires? They looked and felt like they were made of really hard plastic, but once they were broken in, they were the grippiest things ever (on carpet).They would probably be awful on pavement, however.

My recommendation for asphalt parking lot fun would be S-Grips or the Pit Shimizus (like Granpa recommended).

For racing you'll have to follow TCS rules and only run Tamiya pre-mounted wheel/tire combos (listed on the Tamiya website).

Tire wear will depend greatly on the speed of your car, -what size motor are you running? If the stock silvercan then you shouldn't worry about tire wear as it will take a year or more to see significant wear ..in fact I prefer my Tamiya Mini's tire to be worn a little rather than new out of the bag/box. Even a 21.5t brushless you won't get that much tire wear ....not like a TC car where you can buy a new set of tires each race day.

-perhaps if your doing donuts all day long in on a very porous parking lot surface on a super hot day then you'll probably see more wear.

Tell us more about your car? Motor? and where you plan to drive it?

No just parking lot asphalt. I have oil shocks...different springs. Not sure what any of it is right now to be honest....it's from at least 5 yrs ago and just got back into it and had NO idea what the hell was what. Stock silver can and I just got shimuzu 456 and 452 mounted on new rims. I just have parking lot asphalt and sadly no one to race with but I still try to be better all the time....which is why I'm interested in making the car as perfect as possible.
What power is the stock silver can anyway?? I think if the shimizu work I'll stick with them. I also reused my old foam for now....I couldn't wait any longer for my LHS to get the super hards in. I know they are hard just not sure how hard.....but tons harder than the mushy supplied donut that comes with the shimizus lol

Monkey just an update I got those washers for the wheel play I was having....the traxxas teflon washers.....it's mint now. Nice and tight. Gonna try her out with the shimizus right now! Cheers guys. Keep the great advice coming!

Hey so I know most of you guys race on a track...but is it normal for the shimizus to just collect all the dirt and start to loose grip. They started our like glue...after a few min they have a light dusting on them and they loose grip. Any way to combat this other than a cleaner parking lot?

All tires do that newbie
That's the hardest thing to do after each run for us at TGR
We clean the tires
We use contact cleaner spray and paper towels. I've seen some of the guys use brake
Cleaner or even lighter fluid, but I got an in for the contact spray and it works good for us.
Depending on which route you go, it may wear down the tire faster.

For asphalt-----Simple Green

Carpet-------Tire cleaner or motor spray

I would also setup the car to run with the lesser traction.. ie soften springs and dampers, remove rear stabilizer, change steering/throttle inputs.

This is when 4WD m-chassis really comes in handy.

Can't seem to get the V2 to dial in correctly with the #54000. Thing understeers both on and off throttle even with 3hole piston front with red springs, 2 hole piston rear with blue springs. I'm using #400 yellow Tamiya damper oil. I need to find softer oil for the front, or might just bore out the 3 holes a little more since I won't be joining any TCS races.

The car has rake (rear sits 5mm taller), 5-7mm droop, ball diff is stiff, but not extremely stiff like how you guys have it set. Car drives well with the factory clear CVA's, btw. Crap, I think I wasted money on pretty aluminum parts. :lol: ;) jk, I'm going to work on it some more this afternoon to get this thing to work right with the V2.

What's the simple green?

Its a citrus based degreaser. Aren't you a car tech? Should know this..?

Tried red #200 on the V2's front 54000 3 hole piston. Still understeers

We don't use any citrus stuff at bmw. It's all industrial strength kill your hands and work quick stuff lol. Flat rate man lol

I've posted this at least 5 times. The 54000 hock just don't work right cause the shock bodies are too short. I know you're loath to listen to any advice from me., but the only way I could get them to work "right" was to use the TC shock bodies which are about 2mm longer

Simple Green-----IMO best all purpose cleaner for R/C cars. Will clean both plastic and metal parts in dilute solutions. I used it in a very dilute solution when breaking in Silvercan brushes. Since I have an ultrasonic cleaner, it makes a good ball bearing cleaner.

$8-10 per gallon at most supermarkets