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Missing you
Grandpa, nice to hear from you. Bin missing you! Fun race coming up next week. Hope you can make it, at least as spectator. Your table space is still reserved...
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Originally Posted by avink007
(Post 13904061)
A close calculation is to multiply the actual speed by the square root of the scale. √12=3.46, 60x3.46=207.6. A mini probably does closer to 20mph, so 20x3.46=69.2mph scale speed. Still a bad crash to hit a wall at close to 70mph!
Originally Posted by Laguna Bozo
(Post 13904162)
Grandpa, nice to hear from you. Bin missing you! Fun race coming up next week. Hope you can make it, at least as spectator. Your table space is still reserved...
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THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS SCALE SPEED.
A RC car is a small vehicle in a normal sized world. Speed is distance over time and an RC car traveling at 20mph is just that. If you made the car bigger, it would still be traveling at 20 mph, because the world (and our concept of time) are a constant. Forces Related to a crash are solely the forces you would expect from an object of that size and weight traveling at that speed. |
Originally Posted by Neils74
(Post 13903937)
It is amazing how strong and resiliant these little cars are especially as it would be like us driving a real car into a solid wall at 200mph. That plastic chassis must flex more than we think!
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Originally Posted by Neils74
(Post 13904496)
Looks like that a flippant and obviously misguided comment by ME in regards to scale speed causes such a knee jerk reaction within the ranks. Sorry to open the "can of worms"
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I just know that my silver can is plenty fast for my tiny track! :D
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Ordered a bunch of maintenance gear today. :D
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Neils74, I would run a softer compound tyre on the rear. When we run sweeps, 40 or 33 on the front we use sweep 25 on the rear. If the rear end is stepping out then you have too much front grip and not enough rear grip. I only use 300 000 or 400 000 wt oil in my TOP racing oil gear diff.
You can use a harder front spring, softer rear spring, make the car wider at the front and narrower in the rear, (using 6mm hex and spacer on the front and 4 or 5mm hex rear), lessen the rear camber . You need to try the tyre change first, then these other suggestions. I have been using Ride Inch ups and decided to run Sweep 33 front and Sweep 25. All I changed on mysetup was my ride height and drove the car a little differently. I changed no settings in my radio and car was still fast and no traction rolling. I run mwb configuration using the Blitz VWGTI body with no wing. I am currently using the 1 degree alloy bottom plate with 1 degree rear alloy hubs. 5mm hexes all round. 35 wt oil front and rear, three hole pistons. My shocks are built as per m chassis trf instructions. I do not use the droop screws. I run negative expo on my radio, -25 for steering. I can push my car very hard without traction roll issues. Anyway, good luck, Regards, Calvin |
For me, widening the front will cause more rear stepping out.
If my Rover body had more rear quarter arch clearance, I would widen the rear track... |
Originally Posted by caltek1
(Post 13905608)
Neils74, I would run a softer compound tyre on the rear. When we run sweeps, 40 or 33 on the front we use sweep 25 on the rear. If the rear end is stepping out then you have too much front grip and not enough rear grip. I only use 300 000 or 400 000 wt oil in my TOP racing oil gear diff.
You can use a harder front spring, softer rear spring, make the car wider at the front and narrower in the rear, (using 6mm hex and spacer on the front and 4 or 5mm hex rear), lessen the rear camber . You need to try the tyre change first, then these other suggestions. I have been using Ride Inch ups and decided to run Sweep 33 front and Sweep 25. All I changed on mysetup was my ride height and drove the car a little differently. I changed no settings in my radio and car was still fast and no traction rolling. I run mwb configuration using the Blitz VWGTI body with no wing. I am currently using the 1 degree alloy bottom plate with 1 degree rear alloy hubs. 5mm hexes all round. 35 wt oil front and rear, three hole pistons. My shocks are built as per m chassis trf instructions. I do not use the droop screws. I run negative expo on my radio, -25 for steering. I can push my car very hard without traction roll issues. Anyway, good luck, Regards, Calvin Thanks for pointers, the tires will be the first change for sure. In regard to the wider hexes, are these tamiya parts for m or generic parts? I have read that some prefer stiffer springs at the rear, but I understand the need for softer, especially as there really isn't any weight back there. The ride height change, especially at the rear already has made a difference, as did a little less camber. I also slowed down the servo speed, It was at default, and it was a fast little bugger. It's a work in progress, but thanks again for the pointers! Cheers, Neilson |
Will the 3 Racing M05 gear different work in the M03?
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Originally Posted by Heathen
(Post 13907049)
Will the 3 Racing M05 gear different work in the M03?
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Hi All
I just started racing my M05 and need some help from some experienced mini racers! I recently purchased the 3racing gear diff and also the 3racing ball diff for my m05 and I am having the problems stated below - Gear diff, I cannot seem to get the cushion clips on the stand tamiya driveshafts I keeps snapping them, is there a reason they wont fit? Do I need different driveshafts? - Ball diff, seems that when I put the driveshaft into the diff side they are not long enough to sit into the wheel carrier and just fall out. Any help with this would be great! |
With the gear diff, soak the blades in boiling water for a few minutes. This will soften them up and make them easier to fit.
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
(Post 13907084)
Nope. Won't fit. Bearing sizes are way off. 03 = 5x10, 05 = 10x15.
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