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Old 12-16-2014, 09:50 AM
  #22471  
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Originally Posted by axle182 View Post
Both the internal gears and the ring gear are plastic. No, I suggested packing with 500k silicone diff oil.
all plastic gears for internal dif scares me a lil ... im running on a med grip carpet...
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Old 12-16-2014, 09:57 AM
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I am sure it is on one or more of the 1500 pages on this thread, but my search skills are apparently challenged. I am looking for setup tips and tricks for an M03 on carpet, for my son. Here is what I have:
1. M03 long, medium or short (can make any of these)
2. aluminum shocks
3. swaybars (variety of sizes for front and rear)
4. S Grips tires
5. aluminum steering knuckles
6. bearings for car (1 shield removed, cleaned/re lubed and installed)
7. carbon bearing shafts
8. ball dif or aftermarket dif filled with silly-putty
9. variety of springs

We have been running the car short, with the putty dif, but seem to have a lot of chatter through the corners. It could be his driving style is not as smooth as it could be. we are CA'ing the front tires one rib in and are running both front and rear bars. 5mm ride hight with Tamiya 30wt oil in the shocks and 3 hole pistons. We are not running any spacers in the shock body or on the outer lower shaft.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:37 AM
  #22473  
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Originally Posted by jjmudd View Post
I am sure it is on one or more of the 1500 pages on this thread, but my search skills are apparently challenged. I am looking for setup tips and tricks for an M03 on carpet, for my son. Here is what I have:
1. M03 long, medium or short (can make any of these)
2. aluminum shocks
3. swaybars (variety of sizes for front and rear)
4. S Grips tires
5. aluminum steering knuckles
6. bearings for car (1 shield removed, cleaned/re lubed and installed)
7. carbon bearing shafts
8. ball dif or aftermarket dif filled with silly-putty
9. variety of springs

We have been running the car short, with the putty dif, but seem to have a lot of chatter through the corners. It could be his driving style is not as smooth as it could be. we are CA'ing the front tires one rib in and are running both front and rear bars. 5mm ride hight with Tamiya 30wt oil in the shocks and 3 hole pistons. We are not running any spacers in the shock body or on the outer lower shaft.

Any help would be appreciated.
John id suggest this -

1. Medium (Civic is great)
2. Good. 35-40wt with 3 hole pistons. Set the droop length about 1-2mm max. If you need help on how to do this, PM me.
3. Hard Sway bar rear. No sway bar front.
4. Perfect.
5. Perfect Get the tamiya M03 alloy servo arm and saver also. Or the big Kimbrough saver with mods (its on here)
6. Perfect
7. Not a fan, I usually use the heavy steel ones.
8. Diff with putty is best for the 03. Have a built spare on hand with a few spare bearings incase the putty starts to leak. Its an easy swap on a 03
9. Run Tamiya red up front and blue or yellow out the back.

Add toe out - around 1-2mm. balance the car left to right. As for the CA, I only like enough to control the lifting on the fast corners. Any more and I find I loose too much grip everywhere else. Sounds like your chatter could be too much steering throw. Less CA will give you more grip, and putting the limiters under the shock pistons will help keep the chassis low so with more overall grip, hopefully u require less steering throw and that will lessen the chatter, but really, most chatter anyhow. Sauce the daylights out of the front, rears sauce later. Basically the opposite of TC.

If this setup is generating too much steering (you want a mini to be aggressive in the corners and for some that makes the car twitchy) go to a stiffer front spring.

Depending on how involved you want to get in mini, id suggest changing the chassis to an 05 sooner rather than later, add in a few 05 options and your set. Its a better road if your thinking of upgrading the 03. Biggest reason, you can use the 3 racing diff I mentioned earlier.

Hope that helps dude and welcome back to RC!
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:53 AM
  #22474  
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Originally Posted by coolair View Post
all plastic gears for internal dif scares me a lil ... im running on a med grip carpet...
Seriously its not a worry. We run torque BL motors, on high grip (well at the big races its high) and I've never seen one fail internally. As I mentioned I haven't even looked into mine for a very long time.
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by axle182 View Post
Seriously its not a worry. We run torque BL motors, on high grip (well at the big races its high) and I've never seen one fail internally. As I mentioned I haven't even looked into mine for a very long time.
Thanks
will give it a go,,,
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Old 12-16-2014, 01:02 PM
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Default Tamiya mini m05 v2

Anyone know what bearings r used on m05v2 thank you .
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Last edited by [email protected]; 12-16-2014 at 02:35 PM. Reason: Got answer
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Old 12-16-2014, 01:19 PM
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Thanks Aaron. He is just starting out and we have 4 of the M03s. Not really looking at Mini seriously, but as a starter class for him and then as he improves a support class for the two of us. More stick time is always good. Hard to do when he is playing hockey and ski racing, but we are trying to get out a little. I have already bought an ARC 2013 for me for stock and am waiting on 2 Black Edition 2015's...one for him (stock) and one for me (mod).
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Old 12-16-2014, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jjmudd View Post
Thanks Aaron. He is just starting out and we have 4 of the M03s. Not really looking at Mini seriously, but as a starter class for him and then as he improves a support class for the two of us. More stick time is always good. Hard to do when he is playing hockey and ski racing, but we are trying to get out a little. I have already bought an ARC 2013 for me for stock and am waiting on 2 Black Edition 2015's...one for him (stock) and one for me (mod).
Jesus, two 2015s.... way to step back into rc lightly hahaha. If I was to finally give up my Tamiyas, it would be the Yokomo, but I digress...

If that's the case John, the M03 is perfect for wheel time. Enjoy!
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Old 12-16-2014, 04:03 PM
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Great news --> someone at Tamiya contacted me via email and said they will be sending me the splined GEARBOX JOINT parts which is awesome because it means I won't have to disassemble the diff (I would have to disassemble the diff if they sent me slotted LARGE BEVEL GEAR parts instead)

Woo hoo!



And . . . I hope it's okay to paint the wheels

It better be because I already painted them

I don't expect the paint to last but when the car is new, these wheels might look good

Thanks everyone


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Old 12-16-2014, 05:21 PM
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Can anyone tell me if this body:

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-51236-s...?cPath=438_874

Is suitable to use with M05 V2 Pro when running in mid wheelbase setup?

Cheers
Simon
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Old 12-16-2014, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by pullstarter View Post
Can anyone tell me if this body:

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-51236-s...?cPath=438_874

Is suitable to use with M05 V2 Pro when running in mid wheelbase setup?

Cheers
Simon
Yes
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Old 12-16-2014, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by AngryRog View Post
Yes
Thanks
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:27 PM
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Just rebuilt my M05 from the ground up (after a catastrophic cleaning incident, melted/cracled A-parts) and oh my what a fun car to drive. Handles better too now. I wonder how much of that was the stress cracks and how much was the aluminum steering wiper (which i'm now suspect is actually for an M03).
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Old 12-17-2014, 03:49 PM
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I'm strangely giddy about the upcoming release of the black anodized alloy bits for the M05. I've wanting the blue to go away for a long time. I've got the black rear uprights from the Gold kit, but I'd still be stuck with blue front uprights. Hmm.

(disclaimer: I won't be buying the black parts kit as the price is going to be utterly insane.)

(probably)

(Okay! Just shut up and take my money!)
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I'm strangely giddy about the upcoming release of the black anodized alloy bits for the M05. I've wanting the blue to go away for a long time. I've got the black rear uprights from the Gold kit, but I'd still be stuck with blue front uprights. Hmm.


Is it possible to take existing parts, remove the blue anodized finish and then have them anodized black?

If so, would it be cost prohibitive?


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