Can you share what shell, esc motor combo and oils / tyres you were using. I am also building my M05v2 to start racing indoors on carpet so It would be cool to get a rough idea of a base level.

We had to use a HPI 20t brushed motor so I used a Tekin FX speedo, the tyres were Sweep 33 on front with sidewalls glued and Sweep 25 on rear. TRF shocks all at 56.5mm using 3 hole pistons and Muchmore 450 oil all round. I did not use the new arms as I think that they are pointless (metal screw on plastic) but use 3 racing arms all round. I also use a 3 racing gear diff with 100,000 oil in. I used a HPI Honda civic type r shell (medium wheelbase) But the VW Golf shell works to.

YES. Carbon towers Front and Rear

Cool thanks for that, I need to get some Sweeps (got Pit mediums atm) we are running 21.5 motors in ours and it has to be long or short but no medium wheelbase (I was told that long is much better on tight high grip carpet) so I just need to choose a LWB shell.

No medium? Why?

no idea, I think its got to maybe be a mini shell. Do Tamiya make a medium shell?

I assume medium is the best for carpet?

Tires were glued, S grips but we're the wrong choice for carpet.
This was my first race on carpet and was wondering what setting others changed when fighting traction roll.
I went stiffer, thinking to reduce chassis roll and keep car from transferring weight side to side. I had the tamiya mini white springs, and I increased front and rear camber to 2deg, front height at 5.5 rear at 4.5, and stock plastic rear hubs, I think they are 2deg.
If my thinking is incorrect, please let me know so I can continue to learn and understand chassis setups.

First, I'm going to assume you're fighting a traction roll problem, correct????? The info needed is whether the traction roll occurs on corner entry or later in the corner, if this is so.

In answering your question, again I'm going to assume it's on corner entry since that is the most prevalent problem. What happens in this situation is that you go honking into a corner, crank the wheel over, and you wind up on your lid. What happens in this situation, of course is the weight transfer goes to the outside front wheel and your car trips over it.

In this situation, your analysis of the corrections to make, are not the way to correct the situation. You're right to raise the front and lower the rear. This helps cause it makes the front softer on turn in so you're less likely to have the front dig in.

Here's where you and I part company. You control the amount of roll with stiffer springs in the rear and a rear roll bar. You want to load the outside rear tire to do this cause you want to have less load on the outside front. What stiff springs in the front do is that the set of the care occurs much too quickly which on carpet and hi-grip asphalt you want to avoid.

Having never seen your track layout, your carpet, or you drive, I can't get to specific other than to guide you to a basic set up that has served me well over the years. First, if you don't have a rear roll bar, put one on. Try using the soft neon colored springs, put the blues in back and either the yellows or reds in front. Any adjustment to the shocks should be with different shock oils and not the springs or with shock rebound. If you want to speed up the action do so with lighter oil or more rebound. Generally, with your problem you'll want slower shocks in front and quicker shocks in back.I'd start with 40 wt all around.

Another thing you can do with the shocks in your situation is to run short shocks in the rear and longer ones in the front. Damn, I forgot to go over different shock angles and the effect of shock placement, but I'm still exploring the intricacies of that myself. Orlando is the guy to ask about that.

And please, don't just try one or two of my hints. As a favor to me, do it all or do none of it. In all Mini set ups, things work together and you'll make me look bad if you do just bits and pieces. If you have any questions, send me a PM. I don't like arguing with people about this stuff.

Forgot that if you have a TX that lets you do this, try slowing your travel speed down and cutting down on the amount of travel. Also you could reduce the drag brake in the esc. This will help even if you don't listen to any of the rest.

LWB (239) bodies are very rare, almost extinct. Majority are SWB (210) and quite a few are MWB (225). Off the top of my head, here are the Tamiya bodies,

Nissan Silvia S15 239mm is only LWB I can think off.

225mm: VW Beetle, Mazda Miata, Alfa Romeo GTA ,

210mm: Renault Alpine, Honda S800, Fiat Abarth 1000 TCR, Fiat Abarth Corse, Mini Cooper, Suzuki Swift

A few errors here. It's tough remembering sometimes and I could be wrong here too. Monkey will probably set us both right. Tamiya discontinues so many bodies without notice.

My list:

SWB Rover Mini, Alpine, Fiat Abarth 1000, Honda S800, Nissan Silvia( also in LWB).

LWB JCW Coupe, Nissan Silvia, 2006 Cooper S

MWB CRX, Abarth 500, Suzuki Swift.

Its just a dumb rule. Someone will buy a common Mini like a Swift or 500 and get turned away from the track. What's the benefit of that?

Thanks for that so if racing on a tight indoor carpet (low grip) Short should be best?

Qatmix, are you running TCS rules? I noticed you mentioned something about Sweep tires, so I'm assuming not. How about bodies from companies like Blitz? Their shells are good quality and half the price of Tamiya.

Let me answer the question this way. The best carpet racer I know uses a SWB car.