Sounds good. Thank you for checking on that.

To JosB and sosidge there is something you should take into consideration. These are our rules and YOU shouldn't comment. It's like telling someone his wife is ugly. While it may be true, it just isn't something that anyone with even a little common sense would do. Good God man, you don't see us commenting on your rules cause we don't race them and don't think that our comments would be helpful.

Frankly, your snide comments about our series just pisses me off. And as glad as you are that you don't race the TCS Series in the USA, I'm certainly more glad you don't.

If this upsets you two or anyone else, tough. I'm just a little fed up with this BS coming from people that don't race here.

Yes, you can tune each platform to do such. But what he is implying is that 'by design' each platform layout has such character traits. And he is absolutely correct.

nm

for the guys that have run their mini's under the new TCS rules (21.5/blinky)

what kind of setup changes should I expect to make? running it at the same track it was last run at, so track conditions shouldn't vary too much..

just curious what to expect from the car

I don't know of anyone that had to make any changes to their setup here.
The car is slower with the 21.5 blinky than it is with a silver can.

really?? i'm sure compared to a properly prepared silver can :)

how did you compensate for the added torque of the 21.5...I know on my table it seem to definitely spin the wheels a ton more then with the silver can I had in there

We don't run any timing in our motors either. There's a couple of new guys that have the silver cans still. They can easily pull us on the straight, we just make up for it on the rest of the track.

thanks, Jim...

I guess i'll be ok with what I got in mine and adjust as necessary.. I'm sure the guys i'll be running with will be running all sorts of timing in their motors - so I doubt I'll be lucky with getting away with no timing

you can get it from this kit on ebay

I have two of these kits and can confirm it's black plastic. This particular listing is without the all important body so it's of no interest to me.

The mystery piece of the puzzle is that not all motors are the same when it comes to how much timing is 'dialed in'... If you set all motors of different brands to 20• per the label-marking on each can for example, they will all run differently.

rite now the KillShots seem to be the fastest in sheer straight line speed. I'm running and prefer the R1-Wurks.

In my humble opinion from experience, leave the unlimited battery option and varience in motor performance kinda works itself out believe it or not. It's tough for me to catch an M03 down the straight if I don't exit the previous coner just rite and vice versa. I have to catch them in the infield. The speed difference are not that great, it actually comes down to who has the better line and handling.

Yeah, with the limited gearing on these cars, it seems like RPM based motors like the killshot/R1 is better suited. My vote goes to the R1 though.

So everyone is running an FDR of 5.8:1? At least that is what I recall the lowest FDR was on my last M03. That seems like a silly high ratio for a 21.5 that really needs to be closer to 3:1 no? Which makes me chuckle a bit at the whole C-rating argument currently going on regarding batteries as the motor has a relatively low load to be able to take advantage of any additional current capacity that the battery would be able to provide.

Which is why we just run them with no timing now. It makes them all pretty close.

I had my FDR down around 4:1 once, using cheater gears and some tweaks. On our relatively short carpet track, I killed a silver can in a few laps. Tried running with hi-po fans. Still melty. Also tried the same gearing with a 6t. Really hot! I found the fastest thing was the 6t Hobbyking motor and a 16t pinion with stock gears. Stood on it's nose every time I braked, capable of disintegrating tires if run on the bench!