I've seen two comments now about a spec motor. What is it? Can someone please provide a link? Thanks!

I've missed the RcMadness TCS event (my work schedule)- decent weather and great attitudes as always. Therefore, great racing. I'm gonna try to at least be a spectator at the Brownies sponsored, Jackson Rc hosted TCS; this event may or may not clarify what a spec motor is [:sneaky:]. I think there's 19 more days till then.:tire:(19 more sleeps)

Go to the Tamiya thread in the Racing Forum. For the Finals there will be a Spec motor. It's inferred that they will be handled like the Silvercans were.

I just don't understand. If the Spec motor is approximately of the same performance as a Silvercan and the procedure is basically the same in tech, why go thru all this B/L nonsense to begin with????? Especially, since the wide variation between Silvercan motors was pretty much nonsense. There's more, but to heck with it.

Try to have fun, Granpa.

Thanks, I found the post: http://www.rctech.net/forum/13374083-post18959.html

Now I have a precedent that I can use to propose an RPM/KV limit for the next winter season at the Hobbyplex.

Hi guys.

Well hopefully that's my car sorted.

Alu Motor mount & heatsink - check
Fan fitted - check
100,000k oil in diff - check
New Torque tuned motor - Check

Have the autosol, voodoo com drops and everything else ready for maintaining the motors. I am practising this week with the old silvercan motor to see if everything works ok then I will try it on the old torque tuned motor. Plan to use the new motor for finals only. It has been bedded in as per grandpas advice.

100,000k oil in diff. Calling it oil is pretty generous. I would say more a goop or a gel. Sheesh. Even though the seals etc are bedded in I take it the diff will still need a little running in before it settles down or is it good to go (Race meet on sunday).

Always do. Some times are just more fun than others. And let's face it , some things are just downright irritating.

Run in your diff (say in a drill/lathe) with some light oil (or WD40) if you're using metal gears (I don't know what gear diffs you guys use), then drain, clean, refill with oil of choice.

Corally make a syrup that is like that and some people really like it for a nearly spool-locked diff.

Granpa, personally I find age and irritation immunity are directly proportional.

don't know why club racing don't use the cheap hobbywing system. about the same speed as the old black can, motor doesn't get no where near hot, no timing adjustment. you know, instead of chasing that "motor of the month". my 2cents

you mean you don't know that brushless = better??? :lol:

said with complete sarcasm

brushless in other classes work, but, personally, don't see the need for them in mini - mini is a 'if ain't broke, don't fix' kind of class...and silver cans have always worked in this class

Only if you let it get to you, Granpa. Just remember a bad day playing with RC cars is better than any day you aren't.

We have been running that for years in Australia. Hobbywing 25/35Amp esc, and 13T 3000KV motor (or rebranded system) Nobody complains, its all fair, its cheap and the cars are fast enough for all experience levels.
Only thing I would like to see is to probably allow 60Amp ESC as the older lower amp ESC's are getting a bit harder to find.

Best of all, they are blue, so fussy people like me are happy :lol:

One thing for me is the much lower wear rate and lower cost, long term. I'm still on my first one. Can't imagine how many silver cans I'd have burned through by now.

With (HW style) sensorless BL, you get motors that are more difficult to mess with, similar top speed between cars, loads of torque, less heat, less demand on batteries...what more can be said?

I love the feel of a silver can in a mini. They're certainly more pleasant to drive with the softer launch characteristics. But this is a good change. I'd be happy if Tamiya got smart and distributed these new motors globally, stuck them in kits, etc.

There's an old saying that goes something like this. If you can remain calm when all around you people are losing their minds, you probably don't understand the situation. Most of this motor kerflufel is centered in the TCS Series of races in the USA. We're well aware of the solution that you've come to in Australia and the one that has been successful in Canada.

What many of you that post that info, which we've heard many times before, don't seem to realize or forget is that our situations are very different. Your series is run by an association or club, ours is run by a company. In some ways a benevolent company, but nevertheless is a business whose aim is to make money. I have no idea how a company like Tamiya is structured or how it's business operates. One thing I'm sure of is that the TCS series is a low priority item and other considerations have strong influences in how the Series is run.

Now, in case you're wondering, I've asked on more than one occasion, why we could not do a similar solution. I've asked why we didn't just pick one 21.5 and use that. The response has always been "we couldn't do that". What that means I don't know.

I understand your point.

However, my thought would be, if your series is ran by Tamiya, I would think it would have been in Tamiya's best interest to take the motor issue completely out of it by putting their foot down and saying, "you must run our branded ESC and brushless motor"

From the outside looking in, it seems the American series has become a motor war, not about who can setup, build and drive the best.
So long as there is no ruling on motor brands, the racing is no longer about tamiya products and will have little benifit to the brand.

Or if Tamiya is showing such little interest, forget them and just do your own thing and go back to having fun again