I just picked up a second-hand M03R! I shall be joining the ranks of M-Chasis racers on the 10th, when my local track starts its 2013 season. I also ordered a new A-parts tree from the bay, because the chrome one on my car looks awful. It will also give me a chance to rebuild some of the car and get familiar with its layout.

It is setup as 210mm, so I bought a Colt Nissan March body. It LOOKS nice, and it is a great price. I can't seem to find any other pictures of it except for the ones from the mfg. Does anyone have one or have pics of one on an actual car?

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...archCupCar.jpg

Here is a Nissan March Cup Car.

I would like to state, for the record "Mwuahhaahhaa!"

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps31bcbe55.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps5798f949.jpg

Anyone know how much trouble I'm getting into with the FF02? I'm approaching tuning as I would any other giant M03...yeah.

Wait, you are doing VTA with an FF02? Hehe.

When you "shim your diff"do you shim the bevel gears or the spider's??
I've had good results putting 50,000 wt oil in but would like to try shimming.
thanks in advance:)

I shim the big ones, three per side. They're Tamiya 9mm washers. (9x15x0.3mm)

I got a question for all you mini experts. I just picked up a used m03 and noticed it has mostly tapping screws on most of the chassis parts. Does any one know if regular machines screws will work in this chassis without coming loose? I would like to switch most out to hexes if possible.

Yeah, most are 3X10mm. Since they have used the self tapping screws already, you shouldn't have to use a tap. I routinely use machine screws to build from the start, but do have to tap the holes part way or they become to difficult to tighten. I use 3X6 on the bumpers and a 3X16 or 18 on the servo mount.

You can replace the shoulder screws in the camber links by using 4X6 flanged tubes. Can't remember the exact length of the screw, but 3X14 or 16 seems right. Part # for the tubes is 50593. I got mine from Tower Hobbies.

Guys, I have a question about LiPo batteries and Minis. I know I need to be aware of the size of the pack, but I am a little iffy on the whole C rating thing and how it impacts a silver can motor. Essentially, what C rating is appropriate? I am thinking that, because of the type of motor, there is a point of diminishing returns; i.e. a 50c pack would not give you that much more performance in this application than a 30c pack. Is this indeed the case, or is a higher C rating actually worth the extra $ for Mini racing?

Also, what capacity will work? Is 3300mah enough for a race day if I charge it between heats?

Thanks!

I've always thought that 20c was enough and the rest was just gravy. I'm running a couple of 3300mah 40c packs. They're perfect, as I'm only pulling about 950-1000mah per 6 minute heat. I could do with a single battery, as charge times are 20-25 minutes (at 1c) and I've got about an hour between heats, but having two is good insurance.

I was the same too , have bought a new lipo for last weekends race and we had 10 minute finals and after 6 mins the punch was off the battery , discharged after every run and charged with 7 amps but still all day the same

Thinking of taking the battery back to the shop as it was quite expensive as i needed one so went to the local and most expensive shop .....

What would seem to be the most important, at least in Mini, is what the voltage reading is at the end of your race. Doesn't how fast your motor runs depend on the voltage available????? The amount of ma used during the race is really immaterial. Smaller capacity batteries will have less voltage at the end of the race.

From what I know about batteries and battery technology, the primary reason for using high capacity batteries is to lessen this voltage drop. So essentially, selecting a battery is a relatively simple process. Get the biggest battery you can find, with the highest C rating and use that. The question then becomes can you believe the labeling by the various manufacturers???????

Another thing to consider is that batteries that are deeply discharged don't have the life expectancy of those that are not. If you have a 3000 pack and use 1200 ma and if you have a 4200 pack and use the same amount, the 4200 pack will last longer.

What you're doing to your batteries is not wise. It will kill your battery in a short period of time. Charging at 2C will not give you a performance advantage, it merely shortens the time needed to charge. Don't believe me??? Try measuring the voltage after a 1C charge and a 2C charge. The difference will be negligible.

Discharging further after each run, shortens your battery life by using up the materials in the battery. This was done in the nicad and nimh batteries, but those at best were good for 50 or fewer races.

never, ever "discharge" a lipo.

infact the best thing to do is top them of, at 1c, after everyrun. this will give you the longest life.

i have a pair of 3500 25c orion's for my mini that have lasted a long time, no i don't count runs. but they are old but well taken care of.

i treat my "el cheapo" turnigy batteries the same way and they are just as punchy as day 1.

Well, never allow them discharge below the recommended level, at least. My packs are generally around 7.8v when I finish a 6 minute heat, or 7.6v after 10 minutes, so they're darn close to storage voltage. If I'm using them again that day, they get balance charged at 1C. If they're getting put away for the week, they get balanced to storage voltage (7.6-7.8v) and stored in a nice cool ammo box. It helps them last a long time with a minimum of internal resistance.