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-   -   Tamiya mini cooper (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/20068-tamiya-mini-cooper.html)

scoop 09-13-2011 01:10 AM


Originally Posted by monkeyracing (Post 9650707)
Shoe Goo works great, especially if you lay down a strip of fiberglass drywall tape first and sort of laminate it in place. Makes your car darn near indestructible.

Jim

Never heard that before. I will use that one:)

digitrc 09-13-2011 01:45 AM


Originally Posted by MD (Post 9650586)
The Tamiya Swift.

Standard weight Tamiya bodies seem a lot tougher than the lightweight versions also.

I haven't run the Spice diff (didn't realise it was available yet), but I am very impressed with the 3Racing diff.

jonest 09-13-2011 02:01 AM


Originally Posted by notch johnson (Post 9650627)
I want to try a VW bug body... those look sweet... but will it work on my m05?

sure. a friend of mine used it!

RedBullRacing 09-13-2011 05:13 AM


Originally Posted by Wylie27 (Post 9650767)
Check after each run?? its a M-Chassis.. thats to much work for an M-Chassis.. :D

Unless your RBR or Caltek1 .. lol

Gotta fill in time while waiting for the battery to charge , since there's nothing else to do !!

caltek1 09-13-2011 05:24 AM

Hello Jason,

I have found out the hard way, that if you don't check the car occassionally, then you will not finish the race.

I check the following only on my mini after every run:

1. universals to ensure the pin has not moved or the holes ovaled.

2. Shocks have not been pushed back on the ball stud.

3. Rims have not been bent and the tyres are still attached to the rim.

4. Screws are tight and that the front top a -arm screw has not come out. On a MO3 this is crucial.

5. With oil gear diff I also check the blades, I don't want to destroy the diff outdrive.

6. At a new track I will check the bottom of the chassis to ensure the ride height is acceptable and observe what the car is doing on the track. Obviously if I change the front tyres from 55mm diameter to 60mm then I will drop the ride height.

Thats about it. Not as much tinkering as a TC, always checking camber, ride height, droop etc.

Anyway thats my response. Not as anal as you might think, only gets a rebuild before a big event.:nod::lol:

Later,

Calvin.

Butler205 09-13-2011 05:32 AM

http://thercracer.blogspot.com/

Tamiya TA05 in M size.

Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.

RedBullRacing 09-13-2011 05:34 AM

Lol, some people have called me " Calvin " in the last six months, not sure what that meant.....................

Must mean that i'm faster than a certain J.Warren ........


Originally Posted by caltek1 (Post 9651547)
Hello Jason,

I have found out the hard way, that if you don't check the car occassionally, then you will not finish the race.

I check the following only on my mini after every run:

1. universals to ensure the pin has not moved or the holes ovaled.

2. Shocks have not been pushed back on the ball stud.

3. Rims have not been bent and the tyres are still attached to the rim.

4. Screws are tight and that the front top a -arm screw has not come out. On a MO3 this is crucial.

5. With oil gear diff I also check the blades, I don't want to destroy the diff outdrive.

6. At a new track I will check the bottom of the chassis to ensure the ride height is acceptable and observe what the car is doing on the track. Obviously if I change the front tyres from 55mm diameter to 60mm then I will drop the ride height.

Thats about it. Not as much tinkering as a TC, always checking camber, ride height, droop etc.

Anyway thats my response. Not as anal as you might think, only gets a rebuild before a big event.:nod::lol:

Later,

Calvin.


sosidge 09-13-2011 05:40 AM


Originally Posted by Butler205 (Post 9651577)
http://thercracer.blogspot.com/

Tamiya TA05 in M size.

Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.

Very interesting.

Not sure a proper FWD version would offer much that the M-05 doesn't already since the TA05-M is using the existing M-chassis suspension parts.

I'm more interested to see whether this is the catalyst for Tamiya's entry into the 4wd mini market with a normal-release, which could bring this class to life.

Also intriguing to see the 380 motor in there. Perhaps 380 is the way M-chassis cars need to go to keep the slow-cars-good-racing philosophy going in the brushless/Lipo age.

academygaz 09-13-2011 05:42 AM

380 with an LiFE pack would help with packaging issues in the chassis but 6.6v on a 380 motor might make it hard to put the power down.

Anyone wanna try one to find out? Just need a 380 to 540 adaptor plate....

Sith Lord 09-13-2011 05:48 AM


Originally Posted by monkeyracing (Post 9650707)
Shoe Goo works great, especially if you lay down a strip of fiberglass drywall tape first and sort of laminate it in place. Makes your car darn near indestructible.

Jim

Good tip. I'm about 15g underweight, struggling to find a nice spot to put some lead. I could probably get 15g in Tape and Goo and protect the body as well!:D

Sith Lord 09-13-2011 05:51 AM


Originally Posted by notch johnson (Post 9650627)
I want to try a VW bug body... those look sweet... but will it work on my m05?

Not sure what brand it was, but I saw one - looked awesome, but the body sides were hard up against the battery holder, so if you're running normal packs with the wires out the end they will push out the body making it look crap. Corally plugs out the top - no probs!

Tim K 09-13-2011 05:51 AM

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Originally Posted by Butler205 (Post 9651577)
http://thercracer.blogspot.com/

Tamiya TA05 in M size.

Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.

Interesting idea. I already have the TN Racing TA05/M03 4WD mini conversion. It uses the front and rear diffs from a TA05 and the suspension from an M03.

wollow86 09-13-2011 05:52 AM

Are the blades for a mini anything special? Or are all blades generic?

Tim K 09-13-2011 05:56 AM

53890, same as on the 415, 416 and 417.

I)arkness 09-13-2011 06:45 AM


Originally Posted by academygaz (Post 9651611)
6.6v on a 380 motor might make it hard to put the power down.

no offence but were you being sarcastic or serious? as you dont get that much power out of a 380 size motor and running on 6.6volts would be event less grunt.


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