Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Thanks for the ideas folks. The Black can motor is a closed motor so i cannot take it apart to maintain.
You are right it did have the plastic bits but they have all been replaced with the fancy bearings a few races ago. If it was not for the fact that my local track has such a long straight on most of it layouts this would not be an issue as through the twisty bits I can make a gain on most of the cars in the pack, it just when we hit top speed i appear to max out before a lot of the others. Does I am currently running NiMh batteries(LiPo's on order) i presume that will not effect the top speed?
You are right it did have the plastic bits but they have all been replaced with the fancy bearings a few races ago. If it was not for the fact that my local track has such a long straight on most of it layouts this would not be an issue as through the twisty bits I can make a gain on most of the cars in the pack, it just when we hit top speed i appear to max out before a lot of the others. Does I am currently running NiMh batteries(LiPo's on order) i presume that will not effect the top speed?
Even tho the Blackcan is a "sealed" motor, there are ways to clean and polish the comm. Please go to the Silvercan thread on this forum and do a bit of research. A clean comm can make as much as a 2,000 rpm difference. Several people have posted how to do this.
Hello, Mini racers.
New Mini bodies are arrived from ABC HOBBY.
Click Here to see the new Mini bodies

Click Here to see the Mini Parts Store.
FYI, Thanks.
New Mini bodies are arrived from ABC HOBBY.
Click Here to see the new Mini bodies

Click Here to see the Mini Parts Store.
FYI, Thanks.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
No, your eyes aren't deceiving you, and the picture isn't distorted. That's exactly what the Ofna JL12E looks like as you pull it out of the box.

Luckily the chassis underneath makes up for the shocker up on top.
Read our full review now - HERE

Luckily the chassis underneath makes up for the shocker up on top.
Read our full review now - HERE
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
It's not a 'remake' as such. It's a 100% Active Hobby car, just in a different box...
As for the diffs, well the first A210's were pretty poor, but since then we've seen quite a few go for a long time with no problem, and certainly we had no trouble with car in testing.
Oh, hardened outdrives? Not that we know of....
As for the diffs, well the first A210's were pretty poor, but since then we've seen quite a few go for a long time with no problem, and certainly we had no trouble with car in testing.
Oh, hardened outdrives? Not that we know of....
Tech Elite

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,583
Take the diff apart and look at the holes in the diff gear. There are ridges around the holes that stick out further that the diff balls. The diff rings rubs/rides on these ridges so you can't properly tightened the diff....unless it's a new diff gear and they fixed this problem......
Tech Elite

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,583
Messed with one for awhile. More like trying to get the diffs right. Mr. All Speed has it now. Everything else on the car is ok, plastic. There was an SS version that has hopups on it. Tony Gray or Tim K has one and reviewed it awhile back.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
I think they must have heard your cries of anguish. 
Our car has a spool up front and the rear diff is pretty much perfect.
We redid a few of the things in the car but didn't feel the need to even touch the diff.

Our car has a spool up front and the rear diff is pretty much perfect.
We redid a few of the things in the car but didn't feel the need to even touch the diff.
Tech Elite

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,583

The car I was setting up originally had a spool up front too which was turned into a diff. That's how I found out about the problem.
For the price I guess it's ok.



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