Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
see on the box it actually says TRF mini
Awesome finally TRF not ashamed of the mini lol
Awesome finally TRF not ashamed of the mini lol
Tech Regular
Very nice but why three?
Do you get S grips in it now or still the crappy M chassis tyres?
I also like that they have finally swapped out those crappy brittle clear shocks!
Do you get S grips in it now or still the crappy M chassis tyres?
I also like that they have finally swapped out those crappy brittle clear shocks!
Why three. One for me and the other two for spares. No just joshing. They both have new homes.
You still get the kit radial tyres, with the same rims they used in the MO3R kits. These are the Chrome plated swift rims.
The inclusion of the Super mini CVA shocks is a godsend, however these will be consigned to the spares box and the M Chassis 54000 TRF shocks fitted.
The kit also includes tune up parts, which include blue ball connectors, blue flange lock nuts, ,etc. It is definately better value than the original MO5 Pro kits.
The Instructions are from the MO5 Pro kit with the inclusion of a two page supplement for the S-Spec inclusions.
Later,
Calvin.
You still get the kit radial tyres, with the same rims they used in the MO3R kits. These are the Chrome plated swift rims.
The inclusion of the Super mini CVA shocks is a godsend, however these will be consigned to the spares box and the M Chassis 54000 TRF shocks fitted.
The kit also includes tune up parts, which include blue ball connectors, blue flange lock nuts, ,etc. It is definately better value than the original MO5 Pro kits.
The Instructions are from the MO5 Pro kit with the inclusion of a two page supplement for the S-Spec inclusions.
Later,
Calvin.
Tech Regular
Thanks for the info Calvin and enjoy building your new machine
Do they still give you the same parts as per the M05 pro so you have the option of S M L wheel base? I usually run L. As you said they give you the pro manual I would assume so.......
Agree with the shocks but for someone starting out they can at least hold off on the M chassis shocks and get through a couple of races....couldn't get round the first corner with the clear ones
So basically the same as the pro but with better option parts to get you going right out the box?
Would be interesting to hear your report after trying out the additional rear toe. I suppose this will help when running the BL systems you use is Aus. Unfortunately we are still on the Tamiya sport tuned so would think it would take away some topend! When we do go BL it will more than likely be the Tamiya 18T hence on par with the sport tuned.
As I have never used a plated frame before can you tell me if it is heavier than the standard plastic frame? Besides the look are there any other advantages?
They must have had many complaints about the ali front shock mount bending, hence the new carbon variant....mine however is still fine after many a bad bang
Do they still give you the same parts as per the M05 pro so you have the option of S M L wheel base? I usually run L. As you said they give you the pro manual I would assume so.......
Agree with the shocks but for someone starting out they can at least hold off on the M chassis shocks and get through a couple of races....couldn't get round the first corner with the clear ones
So basically the same as the pro but with better option parts to get you going right out the box?
Would be interesting to hear your report after trying out the additional rear toe. I suppose this will help when running the BL systems you use is Aus. Unfortunately we are still on the Tamiya sport tuned so would think it would take away some topend! When we do go BL it will more than likely be the Tamiya 18T hence on par with the sport tuned.
As I have never used a plated frame before can you tell me if it is heavier than the standard plastic frame? Besides the look are there any other advantages?
They must have had many complaints about the ali front shock mount bending, hence the new carbon variant....mine however is still fine after many a bad bang
The S-Spec is designed to be built as a SWB only, if you want to use the new alloy one degree bottom suspension mount. This allows you to run with 2.5 to 3 degree rear toe in, although if you purchase the older zero degree rear hubs you would have only 1 degree rear toe.
The original rear bottom suspension plate is included. So you can build the car as a SWB,MWB or LWB. I tried to reverse the new alloy suspension bottom plate, however you would need to dremel some plastic off the rear bottom chassis plate for it to fit. This would effectively give 1 degree rear toe out, before you fitted the rear toe in hubs. I am not sure how that would work.
As stated on the outside of the box the car was designed for tight technical tracks and to also improve the weight distribution on the chassis. I will begin construction this weekend and hopefully run it after that.
I am not sure about the plated chassis. In the past I have run the black plastic chassis and this will be the first plated chassis I have used. I think it will work the same as the normal chassis and have no other benefits other than looking good, until it gets scratched.
Regarding the alloy front shock tower I have bent one in the past in a major impact, however I think the carbon fibre one will break if it is given a large impact. I don't want to really test its resilience just yet. Especially when the parts can not be replaced until the hop ups are released in the future.
I am looking forward to the build and testing on the track.
Later,
Calvin.
The original rear bottom suspension plate is included. So you can build the car as a SWB,MWB or LWB. I tried to reverse the new alloy suspension bottom plate, however you would need to dremel some plastic off the rear bottom chassis plate for it to fit. This would effectively give 1 degree rear toe out, before you fitted the rear toe in hubs. I am not sure how that would work.
As stated on the outside of the box the car was designed for tight technical tracks and to also improve the weight distribution on the chassis. I will begin construction this weekend and hopefully run it after that.
I am not sure about the plated chassis. In the past I have run the black plastic chassis and this will be the first plated chassis I have used. I think it will work the same as the normal chassis and have no other benefits other than looking good, until it gets scratched.
Regarding the alloy front shock tower I have bent one in the past in a major impact, however I think the carbon fibre one will break if it is given a large impact. I don't want to really test its resilience just yet. Especially when the parts can not be replaced until the hop ups are released in the future.
I am looking forward to the build and testing on the track.
Later,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 07-21-2011 at 06:15 AM.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Hey fellow mini guys, I've got a couple more questions for ya'll. I was wondering if I can run 1/10th scale touring car tires on my M05? Will they clear the knuckles and such.....
Also I am looking for a new motor for my M05. I am running the stock silver can brushed motor now and it goes around 15-20mph. I run on a small carpet track and i don't want it to go crazy fast but some more speed would be nice. Is there a motor you would suggest? And if i go with a BL motor will i have to change my ESC?
Thanks Guys
Also I am looking for a new motor for my M05. I am running the stock silver can brushed motor now and it goes around 15-20mph. I run on a small carpet track and i don't want it to go crazy fast but some more speed would be nice. Is there a motor you would suggest? And if i go with a BL motor will i have to change my ESC?
Thanks Guys
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
What sort of class are you racing in? That will answer most of your questions. One I can answer is that touring car tires on a mini don't work that well. They make it really difficult to get the ride height down.
Also, if you're running the stock ESC, then you will need a new speed control to go brushless.
jim
Also, if you're running the stock ESC, then you will need a new speed control to go brushless.
jim
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Its a totally open class. It's just getting started around here. I race with micro's, sprint cars, and even mini revo's, It's called the misfit class lol
Does the Hobbywing 13T motor have 3.5mm or 4mm bullet connectors?
Tech Addict
Don`t know about size but if you are going to chance the wires you should now that some say the sensorless systems are sensitive to chances in wire lenghts.
If you do chance them i think you at least should keep the wires at the same length. that way your probably only fiddling with the timing.
If you do chance them i think you at least should keep the wires at the same length. that way your probably only fiddling with the timing.
New 3Racing Oil Gear Diff for MO5/MO6
I thought I would show some photo's of the new 3Racing oil gear diff fitted to my MO5.
Built per instructions except for a light sanding of the internal gears and I used green slime on all 'o' rings and gasket.
All up fully assembled weight 27gms.
Dan,
Bullet connectors on the Hobbywing system are 4mm.
Regards,
Calvin.
Built per instructions except for a light sanding of the internal gears and I used green slime on all 'o' rings and gasket.
All up fully assembled weight 27gms.
Dan,
Bullet connectors on the Hobbywing system are 4mm.
Regards,
Calvin.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
M05 BL Motor and ESC option
Ive been checking out the hobbypartz Leopard 3000kv and 3300kv motor and ESC combo. Have you heard anything about it, good or bad?
Fluffy622,
I googled that brand of ESC and motor and it seems very different to the systems we use. I know we only use the Hobbywing or other OEM products. These being, Yeah Racing and Venom.
Regards,
Calvin.
I googled that brand of ESC and motor and it seems very different to the systems we use. I know we only use the Hobbywing or other OEM products. These being, Yeah Racing and Venom.
Regards,
Calvin.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Calvin, are the outdrives on the diff aluminum?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (35)
The outdrives are aluminium but not an issue as they also use blades so no wear on the outdrives. We have been running a modified Sakura gear diff for a while and no issues with the blades
The pic below shows you the parts included in the gear diff
The pic below shows you the parts included in the gear diff