Atlas YM34 Thread
01-07-2002, 10:50 PM
#121
Originally posted by robk
Hey a few more things about the old car at least.
It seems to like the same spring front and back. I fooled around with other stuff but the best change was equalizing the springs. I had Associated blues on with swaybars front and rear. I'm not sure if it can use a heavier spring on the rear, or if i should go heavier all the way around yet but it has been ok.
Run lots of droop in the rear. I don't know if the new car has droop limiters, but I drilled some into the arms of my car. It felt way better when I added a significant amount of droop to the back. I remembered this from the summer, when i took some droop out of the rear and it got loose. The front however looks to be more tolerant of less.
I think you have to run some antisquat in the car. I don't know how much is right yet, but I had 2mm in the back of the car. It helps to get the thing to rotate a bit more going in. i also added some kick up in front as well. I did this before changing the spring so the car might be ok without it. We'll see how much stays in as the car was a bit tight in the middle & getting out of the corner. LESS anti squat helps there.
By the b main the car was ok but I drove like a dork, and blew second place.
Gospeed- What do you think the major difference is between the old & new cars? Better or about the same?
Diva- thanks
Hey a few more things about the old car at least.
It seems to like the same spring front and back. I fooled around with other stuff but the best change was equalizing the springs. I had Associated blues on with swaybars front and rear. I'm not sure if it can use a heavier spring on the rear, or if i should go heavier all the way around yet but it has been ok.
Run lots of droop in the rear. I don't know if the new car has droop limiters, but I drilled some into the arms of my car. It felt way better when I added a significant amount of droop to the back. I remembered this from the summer, when i took some droop out of the rear and it got loose. The front however looks to be more tolerant of less.
I think you have to run some antisquat in the car. I don't know how much is right yet, but I had 2mm in the back of the car. It helps to get the thing to rotate a bit more going in. i also added some kick up in front as well. I did this before changing the spring so the car might be ok without it. We'll see how much stays in as the car was a bit tight in the middle & getting out of the corner. LESS anti squat helps there.
By the b main the car was ok but I drove like a dork, and blew second place.
Gospeed- What do you think the major difference is between the old & new cars? Better or about the same?
Diva- thanks
robk, the new type-t don't come with droop screws as well, but again, u can add it yourself.
i am running Kyosho yellow spring all around, with the same shocks oil (yokomo 400wt). but i laydown the front shocks to have more steering response.
yes, more rear droop = more rear grip in general, i usually run 3-3.5 mm droop in the rear.
Good luck !
01-08-2002, 11:00 AM
#122
Thanks for the info guys, i appreciate it. I have been running the shortest steering link. I agree it is best. i have the front shocks in one hole on the tower. I may go one more hole in, but i not sure yet.
I do have to say my results are a bit different on the droop. I just find that the car basically sucks without quite a bit of droop. I may have something else wrong but this is the crutch for now.
I do have to say my results are a bit different on the droop. I just find that the car basically sucks without quite a bit of droop. I may have something else wrong but this is the crutch for now.
Last edited by robk; 01-08-2002 at 11:03 AM.
01-08-2002, 08:43 PM
#123
Originally posted by robk
Thanks for the info guys, i appreciate it. I have been running the shortest steering link. I agree it is best. i have the front shocks in one hole on the tower. I may go one more hole in, but i not sure yet.
I do have to say my results are a bit different on the droop. I just find that the car basically sucks without quite a bit of droop. I may have something else wrong but this is the crutch for now.
Thanks for the info guys, i appreciate it. I have been running the shortest steering link. I agree it is best. i have the front shocks in one hole on the tower. I may go one more hole in, but i not sure yet.
I do have to say my results are a bit different on the droop. I just find that the car basically sucks without quite a bit of droop. I may have something else wrong but this is the crutch for now.
01-15-2002, 01:53 PM
#124
hello
hello guys,
I already have a tc3 and wanted a new (belt drive) car and ordered a YM34 last nite
. I was wondering, do instructions give gearing suggestions? For example If I wanted to run a 10x2 would the instruction have a table or chart that recommened a pinion/spur combo?
also, does this car use a standard size wheel hex so I can use proline/hpi wheels?
Thank you,
Kenny
I already have a tc3 and wanted a new (belt drive) car and ordered a YM34 last nite
. I was wondering, do instructions give gearing suggestions? For example If I wanted to run a 10x2 would the instruction have a table or chart that recommened a pinion/spur combo?also, does this car use a standard size wheel hex so I can use proline/hpi wheels?
Thank you,
Kenny
01-15-2002, 02:26 PM
#125
Hi here are 2 links for 48 and 64 p gear ratios
Somewhere i have a motor and ratio recommendation sheet.
I'll try to find and scan it. Its mostly for asphalt.
http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/ja...ym34tgear.html
http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/ja...ate_ym64p.html
Somewhere i have a motor and ratio recommendation sheet.
I'll try to find and scan it. Its mostly for asphalt.
http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/ja...ym34tgear.html
http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/ja...ate_ym64p.html
01-15-2002, 02:30 PM
#126
robk-thanks for those links.
that would be great if you could scan that motor and ratio recommendation sheet.
I will be racing on a permanent asphalt track so that would be perfect!
that would be great if you could scan that motor and ratio recommendation sheet.
I will be racing on a permanent asphalt track so that would be perfect!
01-15-2002, 10:25 PM
#127
Originally posted by kenny
robk-thanks for those links.
that would be great if you could scan that motor and ratio recommendation sheet.
I will be racing on a permanent asphalt track so that would be perfect!
robk-thanks for those links.
that would be great if you could scan that motor and ratio recommendation sheet.
I will be racing on a permanent asphalt track so that would be perfect!
8 turn - 8.5
9 turn - 8
10 turn - 7.5
11 turn - 7
So for example, if you're running 10 turn double, then you could try 120/37 (internal gear ratio of YM is 2.3125)
01-17-2002, 07:16 PM
#128
My YM34 came this afternoon. It looks very nice I dont have any grease of diff lube so I will have to wait to begin assembly until this weekend.
Diva-thanks I will try 120/37.
I dont have any grease of diff lube so I will have to wait to begin assembly until this weekend. Diva-thanks I will try 120/37.
01-20-2002, 03:29 PM
#129
ym34
Here is what I have so far. Im just waiting for my esc and servo to arrive and then I can finnish assembly and hit the track
01-20-2002, 06:05 PM
#130
MVP?
oh, one more quick question- I was running my 10x2 in my tc3 today (the 10x2 I planned on using in my YM34) and quickly realized I am not a good enough driver to run at those speeds yet. So I am going to run MVP in my YM34. Can someone tell me approx. gearing for a MVP or If any of you run an MVP what gearing you use?
Thanks!
-kenny
Thanks!
-kenny
01-20-2002, 11:22 PM
#131
Re: ym34
Originally posted by kenny
Here is what I have so far. Im just waiting for my esc and servo to arrive and then I can finnish assembly and hit the track
Here is what I have so far. Im just waiting for my esc and servo to arrive and then I can finnish assembly and hit the track
Anyway, it's a good way to train your fingers.
01-21-2002, 09:25 PM
#133
Re: Re: ym34
Originally posted by Diva
Oh I thought you had ordered the type-T. The one you ordered is not the newest version. But it's a ferrari. That means it's a good car provided that you're a good driver. The newest Type-T is much forgiving though. Even new players could run it well.
Anyway, it's a good way to train your fingers.
Oh I thought you had ordered the type-T. The one you ordered is not the newest version. But it's a ferrari. That means it's a good car provided that you're a good driver. The newest Type-T is much forgiving though. Even new players could run it well.
Anyway, it's a good way to train your fingers.
robk - thanks for the gearing info. i think this car will do nice with the mvp
01-24-2002, 11:13 AM
#134
Type T springs
Does anyone know what rate the Blue springs in the Type T are and where they fit in with the Integy springs. I am wanting to stiffen the car up a little bit and i already have a complete set of the Integy's. Thanks in advance.
01-25-2002, 01:12 PM
#135
anyone?? ttt