Claydoh

JohnA, thanks, that's it. Hmm, not sure what to make of that. They moved the motor out and took away 2 batts on the other side. Wonder how that balances.

Just got home from racing. Man, tough track this week. All 180's and straights. The one-ways are starting to wear me out. I may have to break down and get a diff or just quit running sedan outside. I haven't touched my setup from what I posted awhile back. I'll have to go to sorex 36's soon cuz of the heat but otherwise it's working. Radio problems were killin me. I think it's a motor/battery thing more than crystals/rec/trans. (My F201 works fine) I qual'd 5th and DNF'd the main to save the car. I had some hard hits from the glitching. I cartwheeled the type T at least 7 revolutions and landed on a board. Still ran. (Haven't looked hard for breakage yet, cross yer fingers for me) As always, the T was fast, fast, fast! But just couldn't get around the track this week.

Anybody else race today?

seaball

iTrader: (9)

yup. i did. i raced at a place that was pretty laid back. i'm please to say that my best setup today was actually pretty close to some of the setups posted here. i had a diff in, but opened up the layshaft for some of that turn in off power. it worked fairly well. tq'd and won, but like i said, it was laid back.

there's still something that i just don't like about the car. i have little high speed turn in. i went back to kickup front end, which gave me alot of overall castor, but something just feels wierd about the car. it has such different characterstics depending on what part of the turn i'm in. my springs and damping are getting better. i think i was previously overdamped which really deadened it alot. i'll be playing with it all summer. if i can get it working with the one way diff, it'll be a fast car. the middle oneway felt good, but the front is more aggressive on power, and just pulls the car through too much. it looks drifty that way. i'd like to further lower the front rollcenter...or raise the rear...but it's pretty limited on this car. i've already got the rear up 3 or 4mm.

anyway, it was a fun day. won't the triumph be nice if i get this car feeling good. now i've gotta go see this new car you've been talking about. are they fixing the balance issue? let's hope.

macaofriend

iTrader: (19)

Hi everyone, what a great board. I was checking out the board on Integy, but that board is pretty dead.

Anyway, I just bought a Type T and an original YM34 (for parts) and after putting the T together, I don't want to race it anymore because it's so nice looking. But I will put it on a track this Sunday and see how it goes. I've had a TC3 and a Losi XXXS and a TA04ss and so far, the Lose is my favorite car to drive. I was hoping I could make the YM my only car just because I want to be different. Everyone runs the same stuff most of the time where I'm at (SF, Ca).

Anyway, I read through the posts and I have a couple of questions. When you guys add kickup, do you add shims to the "purple square" that sits between the arms? If not, where? Also, besides Integy, where do you guys order parts from? From the Integy board, some guy says he got the front and rear arms all for $15 and I was wondering where he ordered it from.

Thanks,

j

TWiZTiD

looking for a mid size mid bie outdoor ashfelt track set ups please for type t and Si

keithander

help. I'm trying to stick with the type T for the summer and have raced on a few asphalt outdoor tracks and indoor on carpet. I'm having particular problems with lack of steering indoors and out in both stock and modified classes. Also I seem to be having serious diff problems which isn't good when it takes me a long time to change them over. I can't really get use to the front one way and am having problems with slippage on the delrin outdrives.

Thinking of changing to a xxx-s but would be dissapointed to give up on the type T.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

hey keithander,

i'll help with what i can. let me first say that i agree that the diff removal process is extremely painful with this car. as far as the steering goes...i've had the same problems as you. i'll assume that you do have, and run, a diff in the front.

i think the car was really meant/designed around running the front oneway. i've finally got the car to work on carpet by using double diff setup and opening the layshaft one way for off power turn in. it's not perfect, but it was extremely fun to drive that way. the front one way is so aggressive off and on power and i feel that without it, it the car doesn't steer well at all. trouble is, i can't get it to work with the front one way in. most of the others on this thread really love the car and don't stray too far from kit setup. i dunno the secret, but i wish i had it.

on carpet, it's almost impossible to not have enough steering. the trouble lies in getting steering AND maintaining high cornerspeeds. what i like about the diff is that you can always open up the layshaft if you need some off power rotation. you should post your setup and then we can comment on what it may be that is the main contributer to your poor cornering characteristics. where is the steering worst? entry, middle, or exit? on power, off power, or just at constant speed? these are often difficult to judge or recognize, but are great pieces of information as they will dictate what parameter to change on the car in order not to worsten other handling aspects.

the diff rings need to be ca'd to the outdrives during assembly. that should fix the slipping, and just a few tiny drops will do.

if you do give up on the atlas, the xxxs is a great handling car that's easy to dial in on any surface. but won't it be more fun when the atlas comes together?

later.

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys, well we been having some fun in the wet in the UK car is very good at moment apart from one problem which I am hoping that you all can answer......
car is set up to kit standard with layshaft opened,is very quick has ample steering and is a complete hoot to drive but it is very twitchy,going onto the straight the car seems not to want to centre on the servo this is on 3 different servos so that part is eliminated,so of course I am forever correcting it down the straight, secondly the car seems to tug to the right when power is applied as if something is binding, having completely rebuilt the car to get rid of this it is still doing it and wonder if anyone has any ideas,shocks are correct so no tweak there.also does anyone have a spare rear block for the hinge pin hanger as I appear to have sheared my one (on one of the corrections).
Car has been ultra reliable apart from the swerve on power and please someone help me with it coz I am getting fed up with having to run my Pro3 or KX-1.
Cheers
stuart

keithander

cheery2blost,

Could it be the weight distribution side to side....if you open a DVD case 45 degrees so it looks like a tent! Centre the car on the binding of the dvd case from front to back. Does it lean off to the right?

cheers,

JohnA

Here's something you might like to try... not a one-way, not a diff but a spool. There's a lot of talk on other threads aout them and it looks like it could be for you. Basically you get the turn-in of a one-way but you can brake as well.

Take the balls out your diff and thrust washer and replace the diff rings with ones cut from sand paper so the outdrives lock on to the pulley. Give it a try.....

I'm going to put one together and see how it goes.

TWiZTiD

drove my tpye T for the first time today and it had so much more turn in then my mission but I have had a couple off problems with the front cvd's they keep pulling apart

keithander

TWiZTiD

never had this problem although I think JOHNA did....he may be able to help....

seaball

iTrader: (9)

twiztid,

i'm not sure what you mean by pulling apart. breaking? i've broken two front cvd's when running a one way. if the pin is just sliding out...i'd just make sure you are using loctite on the set screw.

oh just an fyi on the spool fellas. because it is a rigid axle assembly there is no give when you hit a wall. just like a one way, but ...both ways. a spool tends to tear up cvd's perhaps faster than a one way. i played with one for a few weeks on carpet. it was very aggressive on power, but would push off power just like a very tight diff. infact, i'd play with the idea of just running your diff ultra tight before actually going to a spool. its amazing how much tuning you can do just with diff tension. the best part about a spool is that you don't need to rebuild it!

Claydoh

Ah, you think like I do.

TWiZTiD

is there any way to reduce the amount of caster thoes cars have

synapse79

there are 7degree and 9 degree caster blocks. If 7 is too much for you, you can reverse the fron pivot block and take another 2 or 3 out.

I think I maybe selling my Type T. I dont really want to, but if i got a decent amount for it I would. I have too many other things going on right now.

It has the TS chassis, purple battery brace, delrin diff, modified oneway(larger outdrives).
Top shaft and axels are shimmed to perfection.

Right now it has ball diffs front and rear, car is unbelievably stable like this, i think it gives up a slight amount of corner speed, but it is way easier to drive a perfect lap every lap for five mins. The front ball diff is steel.

Lots of spare parts.
Arms, shock rebuild kit, CVD kits, hubs belts gears, alum and plastic.

i just replaced the front and rear belts and plastic diff gears.
Has all lunsford TI turnbuckles and it has 50+ TI screws, nearly every screw is TI.

Car is in great shape, very clean. There are some scratches on the bottom.
Id sell it with a GM V12XC and a hitech 605BB servo.
Id like to get $350 for it shipped.

There are pix of the car on this forum, not sure which pages tho. I can post more if ppl are interested.

thanks
jason