silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

I'm running no sway on front, heaviest on rear, 50wt all around yellow fronts blue rears, front spool,rear ball diff a little loose. I also changed all my balls to the flourine coated. I had signs of wear on the blue balls (that's what she said) and I decided to swap them out. The worst wear was on the ifs ball studs. My ifs link is very long to preload the dampers.

I would also reccomend putting more weight and a looser diff in the rear. The stiffer springs reduce the rear dive due to the additional rear traction.

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

Carbon shock towers front and rear
alum suspension blocks
Alum racing steering set
Alum hexes
Thick oil (300-500k) or putty for the front diff
Carbon reinforced arms chub and uprights
Swaybar set

My chassis is pretty much the stock plastic one

Ta06 is very heavy at the rear. Harder setting at the rear stabilizes it and prevents it from swinging around on corner entry. Keeps the rear planted when powering out of the corner as well.

Btw I'm running putty in the front diff and 2k oil at the rear.

Hths

@Art_Mighty

iTrader: (7)

I'm not sure what part you're referring to. What page / step is it in the manual?

...interesting. I would have thought the stock unit would flex too much.

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

Sometimes, flex is your friend.

Use the same arms, c-hubs, front and rear hubs as the 416/417. They're harder and sturdier than the stock plastic ones.

Refer to steps 14, 16, 18, & 20 (page 10 - 12)

Juan Aveytia

camber 1.5 to 2 degrees and 2 to 3 degrees of rear toe in

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

Ironically it seems there is a tad more flex in the exotek than the graphite from tamiya...

@Art_Mighty

iTrader: (7)

So even in the "pro" version of the TA-06 chassis all of the plastics are the softer formulation? Interesting...

@Art_Mighty

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the heads up...

kwkride

iTrader: (6)

Yes

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

The upside to geting the pro is:

Alum turnbuckles
Alum dampers
alum ball ends
HD low friction ball cups

I wish I woulda gone without the PRO and just got the TRF dampers, TRF titanium turn buckles and flourine coated balls. I did it on the pro, (except the dampers) I just spent money i didnt need to...

@Art_Mighty

iTrader: (7)

Are the universals in both the pro and non-pro kits?

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

I believe so. Check the manual on tamiyas site.

kwkride

iTrader: (6)

No, the non-pro has regular dog bones.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

Better yet, get one light weight and one regular...

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

In the UK, the Pro with a Tamiya shell only works out to be about £10 more expensive than the base model...