rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

oh...more important info...

you can also get the optional high traction arm set... designed for low traction tracks... unfortunately it's only available overseas... I got my sets from RainbowTen in Japan.

GCT69

iTrader: (10)

Rainbow ten do they have a website That speaks english
Interested with the high traction arm set

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

If you dont know what a change will do, do one thing at a time. If you want to see what affect a change has, go to the extremes of that change, but this may not always work, so then you just have to play around with it.

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

Thanks again Zombie.I already have those and I have noticed a difference.I also just added the 2mm chassis. From one week of running I do notice the difference in the chassis, however it seems the car doesn't react as well with the 2mm. It feels sluggish transitioning side to side. I may have to up the shock oil or go with smaller pistons to get the quick flickability back. Any opinion on improved reaction side to side? Right now I run 40w front an rear.with white springs in front and stock silver in the rear, 1.2 pistons all around.

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

It isn't that I don't know what does what, but I was wondering if you guys find it better to keep things more neutral, and change more things ONE BY ONE. I'll try the best I can to explain this.

EXAMPLE: Your car's rear end isn't hooking up. You have 1 deg. rear toe, 40WT oil, medium springs. What would you do? Take the extreme route and go 4 degrees toe (I know there isn't a 4 deg. toe block, it's an example), or maybe go a spring rate lower, add a degree or half a degree of toe, and use a bigger shock piston hole, or whatever.

Again, I am just wondering if you would make one huge change, or lots of little changes that amount to the same handling...
-Josh

DORIFT

From you little example, i would go to do the main things first... maybe step up the next available rear toe and try it out on the track. I tend to leave the shock oil and pistons to last as I am not really that good to really feel the changes in those area. But thats just me..

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

yes i would go with more tow or camber, then springs, oils and pistons take alot more time and the idea that you have to toss oil away to change which is basically tossing money away because the other things will probably work. even when i change from carpet to asphalt i usually dont change oils because the other things will do the job just as well

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

So most of you guys change lots of little things as opposed to one big thing, that both achieve the same end result?
-Josh

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

yea take small steps, like in your example i would try going down one spring weight and maybe a half of a degree or a full one on your tow. if you change somthing like tow drastically the wear pattern on the tire will be much different and the tire wont be ready for that major difference. the tires you have on it are being worn with 1 degree and another degree wont change the tire contact patch to much were going straight to 4 degrees will and your tires wear patters wont b e suited to this change

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/index.html

Erik Shauver

Reset your droop at all 4 corners. This is always needed when swapping chassis thicknesses. You may even be able to reduce your droop to get a more direct feel.



Also, for the other discussion of rear grip; please be more descriptive with your problem. Is the rear end coming around on initial turn in when you first approach the turn, or is it happening at the apex of the corner? Or is it happening as you start to reapply more throttle coming off the turn? At different point through the turn, you can make different changes to gain grip or rear stability.



As far as the size of steps or change increments, I feel it comes down to your overall experience wrenching and also your driving level. Some people will notice say a change from 1 degree of rear toe to 1.5 degree of rear toe. Others may need larger jumps to feel a change on the track. It will also depend in some cases on your setup equipment.

andyh

Desolas

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I agree with that for sure, some drivers require a missing wheel before they notice any issues with their car. It just depends on how dialed in you are with it, and your overall experience. Eventually you'll notice the smallest changes.

Another good reason for making small changes is say your traction solution can be solved with going to 1.5 degrees of toe instead of going to 3, if you make the huge jump to 3 and it solves your problem you may then end up with too much rear traction and scrub speed. Your car will feel really hooked up perhapes, but it may end up being slower on average.

With the Pro 4 it seems to give a lot of feedback to small changes though, which I think is a big reason we all recommend doing a little at a time. Its not that much work, you can make a lot of changes in a 4 hour session until you find the right combonation.

Southerfried, with 3mm of antisquat I would expect your car to push a lot. I also agree 1.5 seems to be about max, I've tried 2mm and it just make the car push too much coming out of a corner.

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

First...thanks Erik Shauver. My car is loose mid-corner.When I start to get back into the throttle it wants to break loose.I can't accelerate as well as I would like exiting.

Next, I never said I ran 3mm of anti-squat. I said I run a 3mm spacer at the upper camber links. For the record I am running 1 degree of anti-squat and it feels about maxxed out. I do use the 3 degree rear toe block along with the 2.5 front.

I would like to say my car is good. These are just the issues I woul like to improve on. I have run alotta off-road, mainly Monster truck , but this is my first full year runnning on-road. I am still learning how each change affects the car.

The sluggishness side to side is the worst problem I see right now. Followed by rear traction in general but especially mid-corner.Thanks again for all the help

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

My setup

Frt
Springs- white
shocks- 40 w 1.2mm pistons
shock position- 2nd hole in on tower - outer on arm
upper camber link height-3mm
upper camber link position- rear inner
lower blocks- f 2.5mm r 2.5mm
ride height- 5mm
droop- 5mm
caster blocks- 4mm
spool
no sway bar

Rear
springs- stock silver
shocks- 40w 1.2mm
shock position- 2nd hole in on tower middle hole on arm
upper camber link height- 3mm
upper camber link position- outer hole on upright...rear outer hole on camber plate
lower blocks- f 3.5mm r 2.5mm
ride height- 5mm
droop- 4mm
delrin diff
no sway bar
standard wheelbase