Proteus

Hmmm...Mike....on this thread. Did I miss something?

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Just got a set of TIR World's Edition CVD's. How durable are these and are they worth the $40? -JB

Desolas

iTrader: (2)

I've been running them a couple weeks now and they are really durable. More durable than the aluminum MIP ones, and IMO less prone to snapping than steel ones would be. Also much lighter than the steel ones (they feel like the aluminum ones to me, they have to be very close.)

Worth the money in my opinion. I've had some really hard hits recently where I've stuffed a single front wheel while making a turn at high speed, and they have not bent. One might be a little tweaked, but it's less than .001" of wobble. Today I stuffed the car hard enough to break a ring gear, the drive shaft outdrive on the front gear box, my front arm, and split my wheel and the CVD didn't bend at all. It's a little chewed where it goes into the outdrive, but not bent.

The damage done to the car would have totally wrecked the MIP CVD. I ruined both mine with much less contact than what I did today, so they totally have my support.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Thanx for the report ... -JB

axel

The tc4 mip ones are also alot better than the MIP pro4 ones. They are much bulkier, they also feel alot more lighter in my opinion. I haven't ran them yet, but it's already been proven. The only problem is that it is blue, but who cares

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

what do you think is better for taking hits the TIR World's Edition CVDs or the IRS big dawg CVDs

Desolas

iTrader: (2)

I bent the IRS ones with little effort. They held up for longer than the MIP ones, but still ended up bending. That and they only have one set of holes drilled in the CV cup if I remember right, where the TIR's have two sets so if you round one out you can change the pin to the next set. I'm not buying CVD's unless they have the cup drilled twice, it just doesn't make sense to only have one pin hole. It's the part that wears out if you don't manage to bend/break the bone.

So just for taking hits, I'd say the TIR's hands down are better; plus they match the car. Sounds petty, but I'd rather keep it purple. Kind of irks me that I'm running blue IRS axel nuts actually.

But this is all coming from someone who manages to snag a board under power at least once a week. If you don't hit stuff often, or can get off the throttle before you hit, the less expensive ones will work just fine. If the TC4 MIP bones will work, they may be even better than the IRS ones; much thicker. For a TC3 it could be just the ticket, I'd just rather not have a black, blue, and purple car.

Tbevofreak

Hi guys,

I recently bought a SDW but although I'm sure its great car to race I won't be using it (looks so beautiful in my pitshop) so I might be getting a Pro 4 for racing but I heard all this stuff about how hard it was to find a good set-up, is this true or just a rumor?

Thanks!

Skill

I've had the TIR Worlds edition CVD's in my car for 3 meetings now and no wear so far. They look very impressive and are a fair bit lighter than the standard aluminium CVD's, I only got them for the front though.

When I first got my Pro 4 it didn't take me long to get a pretty decent setup from the stock, infact I don't think I changed much at all, but it all depends on your driving style. Generally though the car is very well balanced and does exactly what you expect it to do when you change the setup, easy to setup and easy to drive, it's a great car...but then again, I guess I am a bit biased towards it

Desolas

iTrader: (2)

I agree with Skill, the car reacts to changes like it should. You alter a setting and you notice a huge change.

When I setup my car initially the stock settings were kind of off for my track, it took about two 2 hour sessions for me to get the car dialed in. But it wasn't hard, it was pretty entertaining being able to play with the car and learning how it reacts to stuff. I made changes everywhere just to see how it would react, changes that would do nothing when I had a TC3. Because of that it is easy to really screw up the car's setup though, if you set something off, the car can be really way off and unstable on the track. Unlike other cars where you can make huge changes and your not sure if it did anything. Mine still needs a little tweaking here and there, but is probably 90% dialed.

pitshop

iTrader: (56)

Then I suggest you pick up another SDW to race with

well, the LCG is coming out (converts any old version of the SD to SDW specs) so that could be another option...

Tbevofreak

Yeah! well I dont think I will find one anymore now unless I pay over 500$ for it wich I wont do (got mine for 429$) but your right the LCG might be a hot racer but you need loads of other parts

Sine I build the SDW I ve become a Yok fan, such a great finish and quality

The pro 4 is still a good choice, I have to compare price with a built LCG SD

I still cant go to belt cars although the BD and the 415 MS are catching my atention, great cars too

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

Desolas, just FYI IRS big dawgs do have two sets of holes

but alright i gess after i bend up my irs ones enough ill have to give the TIR ones a try

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Hey pitshop, long-time no hear from. I'm sure glad that trade didn't happen. I still got my 'UNTOUCHED' SDW, trying out the Pro 4 I just got and getting the BD next week. Patience does pay off ... -JB

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

DITTO... and where is everyone else finding their TIR ones? -JB