86LikesHpi Pro 4
08-03-2004, 06:55 PM
#6661
sorry everyone, didn't mean to start anything like this here. 
just needed some opinions.
just needed some opinions.
08-03-2004, 07:04 PM
#6662
Tech Champion
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Join Date: Aug 2001
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Originally posted by racer
sorry everyone, didn't mean to start anything like this here.
just needed some opinions.
sorry everyone, didn't mean to start anything like this here.
just needed some opinions.
08-03-2004, 07:42 PM
#6663
no it is all good 
i have the BMI but would definately go for the PRP if i was buying (mine came with the car) even if it does need a bit of work with a file and sandpaper and glue... simply for the extra tuning options it offers, and the added protection from the braces.
i have the BMI but would definately go for the PRP if i was buying (mine came with the car) even if it does need a bit of work with a file and sandpaper and glue... simply for the extra tuning options it offers, and the added protection from the braces.
08-03-2004, 07:45 PM
#6664
Originally posted by Kevin K
Michal....Im not Ben but I have been testing his Pro-4 HTS chassis and some of the options are......the battery is moved in closer to the drive shaft, there is the ability to play with the rear wheel base by moving the arm forward and rearwards, there is also braces that will go around the chassis can guard your electronics from a side impact, also you have the ability to use 3 center posts to further stiffen up the car or move the post the the front or the rear of the chassis to allow the opposite end of the chassis to have a little more flex.....this option is a great tuning aid. Its worked great so far.....I cant ask for anything more from it.
Guys I have seen chassis that BMI has made and they are of very great quality if you go with either chassis you will be getting a work of art. PRP does offer more options on the chassis....and going with either one you wont go wrong. Both are 3mm and once you build up a car with a chassis that thick its amazing how stiff it becomes....I think the PRP chassis would be a little stiffer as the top deck that comes with the HTS kit is full and has very few cut outs where the BMI ones that I have seen are cut out a little more so a little more flex.
Michal....Im not Ben but I have been testing his Pro-4 HTS chassis and some of the options are......the battery is moved in closer to the drive shaft, there is the ability to play with the rear wheel base by moving the arm forward and rearwards, there is also braces that will go around the chassis can guard your electronics from a side impact, also you have the ability to use 3 center posts to further stiffen up the car or move the post the the front or the rear of the chassis to allow the opposite end of the chassis to have a little more flex.....this option is a great tuning aid. Its worked great so far.....I cant ask for anything more from it.
Guys I have seen chassis that BMI has made and they are of very great quality if you go with either chassis you will be getting a work of art. PRP does offer more options on the chassis....and going with either one you wont go wrong. Both are 3mm and once you build up a car with a chassis that thick its amazing how stiff it becomes....I think the PRP chassis would be a little stiffer as the top deck that comes with the HTS kit is full and has very few cut outs where the BMI ones that I have seen are cut out a little more so a little more flex.
I appreciate your prompt and thorough reply.
Thanks, Mike
08-03-2004, 08:37 PM
#6665
Thank you HPI!
08-03-2004, 08:54 PM
#6666
I did put both capacitors directly to the speed control. Is this set up work? I haven't ran the car yet...just want to check before I burn everything.
08-03-2004, 08:55 PM
#6667
Originally posted by azenis
no it is all good
i have the BMI but would definately go for the PRP if i was buying (mine came with the car) even if it does need a bit of work with a file and sandpaper and glue... simply for the extra tuning options it offers, and the added protection from the braces.
no it is all good
i have the BMI but would definately go for the PRP if i was buying (mine came with the car) even if it does need a bit of work with a file and sandpaper and glue... simply for the extra tuning options it offers, and the added protection from the braces.
-Dave
08-03-2004, 09:02 PM
#6669
yeah cool! 
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
ON a side note you could ask Jason at BMI to make a few mods to the BMI chassis for the Pro4... I asked him to change a few things on the sets that I bought ... PM him or call him up to ask
-Dave
ON a side note you could ask Jason at BMI to make a few mods to the BMI chassis for the Pro4... I asked him to change a few things on the sets that I bought ... PM him or call him up to ask
-Dave
08-03-2004, 09:04 PM
#6670
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
should be no problem.... Hara I belive does this to
-Dave
should be no problem.... Hara I belive does this to
-Dave
08-03-2004, 09:09 PM
#6671
but they are schottky diodes not capacitors, they usually go on the motor between the +ve and -ve posts and oyu dont really need two of them, though i cant see why two would do any harm.
They work better the closer they are to the motor.
The novak gt7 has one inline on the motor wires.
just make sure the end with the silver stripe is on the +ve side or they will explode.
They work better the closer they are to the motor.
The novak gt7 has one inline on the motor wires.
just make sure the end with the silver stripe is on the +ve side or they will explode.
Originally posted by X-Garage
alright! I will bring it to the track tomorrow then..thanks!
alright! I will bring it to the track tomorrow then..thanks!
08-03-2004, 09:27 PM
#6672
Originally posted by azenis
but they are schottky diodes not capacitors, they usually go on the motor between the +ve and -ve posts and oyu dont really need two of them, though i cant see why two would do any harm.
They work better the closer they are to the motor.
The novak gt7 has one inline on the motor wires.
just make sure the end with the silver stripe is on the +ve side or they will explode.
but they are schottky diodes not capacitors, they usually go on the motor between the +ve and -ve posts and oyu dont really need two of them, though i cant see why two would do any harm.
They work better the closer they are to the motor.
The novak gt7 has one inline on the motor wires.
just make sure the end with the silver stripe is on the +ve side or they will explode.
yes, I have + on silver stripe side. I don't know why I have 2....may be 2 better than 1...
08-03-2004, 09:33 PM
#6673
cool
hey whats with the bits of foam between the battery slots?
hey whats with the bits of foam between the battery slots?
08-03-2004, 09:46 PM
#6674
just to keep my batteries in place..
08-03-2004, 10:05 PM
#6675
Stick packs or side by side? I guess it would sqush into between the cells in a side by side and hold it in
does it help much?
where do you get that foam?
does it help much?
where do you get that foam?