raptor 700

iTrader: (12)

I got 2 questions.
1) How do I keep my diffs from loosening just about every other run?

2) What setup changes can i do to help get more grip on exit with power on? Every thing is fine in the turn until i have to go on power in the exit of the turn.

thanks in advance help that is offered.

Xtant3150c

iTrader: (10)

I would like to know the samething about grip coming out of turns on power to?

I've tried the 1.5, 2.0 and 3.0 rear blocks and the 1.5 actually seem to work the best.

We run on a medium sized prepped asphalt parking lot track. Running 6 cell with Tamiya Black Can motor and 6.58 fdr.

Also what is a good base setting for the rear diff? I have it set at about 1 turn out from locked now. Should it be set so that the wheels turn opposite ways without holding the spur? Or?

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

raptor get the HD diff nut, its the same one which comes with the cyclone kits.

Then when assembling put a tiny but of loctite in the nut. Not too much otherwise you can strip the plastic part off the but when you go to take it off.


a 1.5 degree rear toe block sounds about right for 540, i found anything less the car just didnt handle. Once i get to stock though i dont like to go below about 2.0 and the cyclone ive just go it permanently set on 3.0 for mod/19T

If you want more on power steering try a spool, however, in 540 a spool will probably make you slower as it will scrub off your speed through the corner. A spool is probably also not ideal for stock.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Always hard to describe diffs, in 540 you run them a little loose though as the torque isnt so harsh on them. I reckon its better to find someone who know what they are doing and feel how tight their diff is.

Manny

I found that if I run my rear diff a little loose (but NEVER slipping), then I"ll get more steering coming into a corner and less coming out and vice versa.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Ive never really worked it out. I used to always run them loose, but i went from 540 didnt race a lot of stock and then moved to 19T.

In 19T i started running it a touch loose (no where near as loose as in 540) but one of the guys at the track told me that running a loose diff chews up the rings cause it allows slippage and thus the diff wears quickly.
Although at the same time im pretty sure i dont use enough diff grease so i think im always running my diffs dry **OOOPPSS**

Steve B

1) Just put a drop of blue threadlock (the sort you get with the HPI CVDs) and should not have a problem and still be able to undo the diff screw because the blue threadlock does not set.
When building a diff you not need much grease on the diff balls and it is best to run the diff loose a bit (about 5 mins but dont drive it to hard) after a build or rebuild to bed averything in then tighten so that there is know slip and you should have a nice smooth diff.

2) For rear grip out of corners check thing like rear lower A arms and steering move freely first.
Settings wise you could give more front droop, run upto 3 degree rear toe in, soften rear springs etc.
Running a rear diff that slips a bit will help but only masks the problem.

Hope this helps.

Blacktiger355

iTrader: (81)

I saw someone above mention torque steer. After a good cleaning and rebuild, my pro 4 seems to have a bit of torque steer when I first hit the throttle from a stand still. It didn't do this before, what can I do to fix this?

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

what motor are you running?
with stock or 19T there should not be any noticable torque steer...

I know with the low-turn mod motors..Hara used 2 different droop setting for the left and right side of the car.
5mm for the left and 6mm on the right for the rear wheel only.
Front is the same on both sides..

Xtant3150c

iTrader: (10)

Mahalo's MangoMan!

And Mahalo's Manny!

Car ran much better at the last race after returning things back to what they were the first time I ran the car.

I bought it used and the guy I bought it from to used to race on carpet so the setup is obviously not the best for our outdoor parking lot track!hehehe

I will going to softer springs than what I have now (pink rear and I think red front?) Thought they were all pinks.

Again Thanks for the help!

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

try Hara's ROAR Nats set-up.. good base set-up.
really works well for outdoor parking lot racing.
use white springs in front and Pink in the rears....

Xtant3150c

iTrader: (10)

Mahalo's for the info RC Zombie!

I'll see if I can find those white springs locally?

I think anything softer will help my setup out!hehehe

Blacktiger355

iTrader: (81)

I'm running a CO27 pro, gearing is currently 100/35.

Could it be the rear diff is too tight? I did just rebuild it.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I build my diffs per the manual. not too tight. just enough so there is no slip.

Blacktiger355

iTrader: (81)

I will tear the diff back apart and double check.