4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
11-17-2009, 06:38 AM
#7111
@Keith
You Scared me now
If a Driver Like you breaks 5 a week I should Order Tens of them
How About Xray C hubs? It fits but a bit too tight sanding them a bit may work has anybody Tried them?
P.s Never trust 3R Alloy Parts
Maybe Square made alloys would be better for you ....
You Scared me now
If a Driver Like you breaks 5 a week I should Order Tens of them
How About Xray C hubs? It fits but a bit too tight sanding them a bit may work has anybody Tried them?
P.s Never trust 3R Alloy Parts
Maybe Square made alloys would be better for you ....
11-17-2009, 07:09 AM
#7112
I was told to use the IFS normal plastic C Hub...and I never break it anymore after that.
11-17-2009, 07:18 AM
#7113
@Keith
You Scared me now
If a Driver Like you breaks 5 a week I should Order Tens of them
How About Xray C hubs? It fits but a bit too tight sanding them a bit may work has anybody Tried them?
P.s Never trust 3R Alloy Parts Maybe Square made alloys would be better for you ....
You Scared me now
If a Driver Like you breaks 5 a week I should Order Tens of them
How About Xray C hubs? It fits but a bit too tight sanding them a bit may work has anybody Tried them?
P.s Never trust 3R Alloy Parts
Maybe Square made alloys would be better for you ....Martin (Crisp) came to my track and he was feeding me ideas for setup all day and it seems i kept getting further and further away from where I needed to be.
Until this week I have broken only a couple parts. Also caster blocks, though. lol.
Had a nasty traction roll once traction came up... but before i started messing with the car it was right on pace... but after 3 rounds- the pace was like 1.5 laps faster- and my car was getting progressively worse.
I dont care who makes the aluminum-- as long as they are true.. lol.
I have to beat this traction roll. Martin says his car will roll too if he is not careful. Just seems wrong to have to adjust driving style to accommodate for a poor handling characteristic.
Think the Xray pieces will fit? Does anyone have the specs? Same pin? Height? that would be ideal. I can modify a little- i just dont want to have to drastically change things to make up for this.
ALSO--- a FYI for everyone. I picked up the LCDs that are available now from Atomic (i think it was atomic)... I got two weeks out of them before a drive pin broke. (in 13.5 rubber mind you) I dont know If replacements can be bought- i havnt looked into it. They work great- really smooth out the steering, but the pin diameter needs to be increased, and they need to be longer. I had to readjust them many times.
KB
11-17-2009, 07:21 AM
#7114
I dont know if mine were spent or what, but just on the bench my car was reading 10degrees of caster on one side and 5 on the other. I switched to the carbon ones and the car was instantly more consistent. BUT- at the cost of fragility.
Needs an answer to this problem...
Now- i rarely break stuff- but my car was apart after every run this weekend- and If i cant get ahold of parts by the weekend without paying 26.00 shipping from speedtech (2 day to NY)-- might be looking at other options.
I do love the car though...
11-17-2009, 07:40 AM
#7115
I don't think anybody in the US carries the Square stuff unfortunately. But, the c-hubs they make are really tough, and hold up quite well. The composite pieces aren't even usable in my experience. I do use the rubber ones sometimes, but I'm beginning to think they're just too inconsistent when the traction comes up.
Does TamiyaUSA or Ampdraw have the spool cups? If not, you might need to throw them in with your HK order for c-hubs. This kind of stuff is why Tamiya struggles to gain popularity in the US.
Were your atomic LCD's destroying the spool cups? When I saw they were 44mm, I figured that would be the problem.
Does TamiyaUSA or Ampdraw have the spool cups? If not, you might need to throw them in with your HK order for c-hubs. This kind of stuff is why Tamiya struggles to gain popularity in the US.
Were your atomic LCD's destroying the spool cups? When I saw they were 44mm, I figured that would be the problem.
11-17-2009, 08:03 AM
#7116
I don't think anybody in the US carries the Square stuff unfortunately. But, the c-hubs they make are really tough, and hold up quite well. The composite pieces aren't even usable in my experience. I do use the rubber ones sometimes, but I'm beginning to think they're just too inconsistent when the traction comes up.
Does TamiyaUSA or Ampdraw have the spool cups? If not, you might need to throw them in with your HK order for c-hubs. This kind of stuff is why Tamiya struggles to gain popularity in the US.
Were your atomic LCD's destroying the spool cups? When I saw they were 44mm, I figured that would be the problem.
Does TamiyaUSA or Ampdraw have the spool cups? If not, you might need to throw them in with your HK order for c-hubs. This kind of stuff is why Tamiya struggles to gain popularity in the US.
Were your atomic LCD's destroying the spool cups? When I saw they were 44mm, I figured that would be the problem.
I smell an xray in my future. Im not paying and waiting for shipping from HK every time i need something.
LCDs-- i dont think so. I think the spool cups were a little spent before i put them in anyway.
I want harder compound spool cups too.
Rubber casters---=== junk.
11-17-2009, 08:57 AM
#7117
TIR Racing Spool
I never seen them but If the cups Like the ones we use on xray (TIR cups) thats what you want
Which Class you r racing? Mod?
I never seen them but If the cups Like the ones we use on xray (TIR cups) thats what you want
Which Class you r racing? Mod?
11-17-2009, 09:29 AM
#7118
I smell an xray in my future. Im not paying and waiting for shipping from HK every time i need something.
LCDs-- i dont think so. I think the spool cups were a little spent before i put them in anyway.
I want harder compound spool cups too.
Rubber casters---=== junk.
LCDs-- i dont think so. I think the spool cups were a little spent before i put them in anyway.
I want harder compound spool cups too.
Rubber casters---=== junk.
If I were starting over, knowing what I do now, I'd probably have to give XRay some serious consideration as well. But after 2.5 years, I've got so many kits and spares, I barely need to order anything, and it would be very expensive to switch brands. Plus, the car is awesome, and it's nice not to be another "me too" at the track.
11-17-2009, 09:34 AM
#7119
No doubt XRay is an attractive choice in the US with all the parts availability and such, especially if you can land a 50% deal. I really think you have to want to run a Tamiya if you're in the US, 'cause the US importer and hobby shops don't seem to really care about on-road in north america. Shane at Ampdraw being a big exception, he's really tried hard to keep things in stock.
If I were starting over, knowing what I do now, I'd probably have to give XRay some serious consideration as well. But after 2.5 years, I've got so many kits and spares, I barely need to order anything, and it would be very expensive to switch brands. Plus, the car is awesome, and it's nice not to be another "me too" at the track.
If I were starting over, knowing what I do now, I'd probably have to give XRay some serious consideration as well. But after 2.5 years, I've got so many kits and spares, I barely need to order anything, and it would be very expensive to switch brands. Plus, the car is awesome, and it's nice not to be another "me too" at the track.
11-17-2009, 09:43 AM
#7121
keith,
get the yeah racing alloy c-hubs, the anodizing match is near perfect
and much closer than the 3Racing peices. The 3Racing c-hubs look
like they have been faded in the sun and have no gloss, they also
bend very very easily from my experience.
The Yeah racing C-hub is much stronger, closer anodizing match,
and very cheap (about $11).
I ordered these because the graphite c-hub breaks on light
board taps and brushes, very fragile but very true in comparison
to the IFS-plastic.
get the yeah racing alloy c-hubs, the anodizing match is near perfect
and much closer than the 3Racing peices. The 3Racing c-hubs look
like they have been faded in the sun and have no gloss, they also
bend very very easily from my experience.
The Yeah racing C-hub is much stronger, closer anodizing match,
and very cheap (about $11).
I ordered these because the graphite c-hub breaks on light
board taps and brushes, very fragile but very true in comparison
to the IFS-plastic.
11-17-2009, 09:46 AM
#7122
I've been running 3racing c hubs never had a problem with it, just ck it today and it's not deformed or anything.
11-17-2009, 09:50 AM
#7123
I hate using Alloy parts but I think I must use them this time ...I'm sorry to say that but Tamiya Part quality is a bit Low 
11-17-2009, 10:18 AM
#7125
i always carry a pair of every think in my box excluding alloy parts and chassis plate
rebuild the car every 2 months depending on usage and never really have wear or breakage problems
if somethig has a bit of play in it , i change it , i dont want to DNF a race i have travelled 200kms to compete in because i didn't change a 3 euro part
i find the Carbon reinforced C hubs get Brittle after a few crashes or sharp impacts
i wont use alloy parts as they can bent and not get seen on rebuild
rebuild the car every 2 months depending on usage and never really have wear or breakage problems
if somethig has a bit of play in it , i change it , i dont want to DNF a race i have travelled 200kms to compete in because i didn't change a 3 euro part
i find the Carbon reinforced C hubs get Brittle after a few crashes or sharp impacts
i wont use alloy parts as they can bent and not get seen on rebuild