4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
04-03-2008, 01:03 AM
#1771
Hi Guys,
I'm planning on buying a 416 at the end of the month. Was just wondering what spares I should buy with it and what option parts are worthwhile. I'll be racing 5 cell modified so want to get the car as light as possible & I'll also be running on a variety of tracks so I'll need handling options. So far I've spotted the titanium screw set and the 1pc front axel, and I'll probably need a spring set (though I have the xray ultimate set) and the rear toe plates.
Also if you guys have any building tips that would be great
Cheers,
Craig
I'm planning on buying a 416 at the end of the month. Was just wondering what spares I should buy with it and what option parts are worthwhile. I'll be racing 5 cell modified so want to get the car as light as possible & I'll also be running on a variety of tracks so I'll need handling options. So far I've spotted the titanium screw set and the 1pc front axel, and I'll probably need a spring set (though I have the xray ultimate set) and the rear toe plates.
Also if you guys have any building tips that would be great
Cheers,
Craig
HiH
Ed (www.thard.co.uk)
04-03-2008, 01:48 AM
#1772
Definately get some aluminum Chubs. Whether it be 3Racing or Square. 3Racing seems to lighter with less strength than the Square ones. They are $12 a pair vs $30 a pair for the Square units. I currently run the 3Racing ones with no problems what so ever. Although I think my friend bent his. The kit Chubs are firm and seem to be the weak link in the car. Scroll back several pages and you'll see pics I posted of the 3Racing Chubs on my car.
I would also buy the EvoV or LW Short arm set. That's all I run right now. The LW Long might be better for low traction tracks. Everything else I would use LWS.
Of course pick up spare spindles and rear hubs. I do not see the need for aluminum hubs. But if that's your thing, go for it. The extra hole might be nice. But I prefer a lighter suspension. And get some spare inner hinge pins.
One nice thing to have too is spare steering tie~rods. They can bend or break easy in a wreck. Switch to Ti ones if you can. Or just carry a spare set with you.
Thats all you really need. Maybe a spare bumper with extra body posts. And some different suspension blocks. 1E, 1D (416 version if you can), 1C (maybe 2), 1XA. You can even get a spare 1B (416 version) and 1A (416 version) if you want.
Get the spool when it comes out for Mod along with some spare outdrives for the spool. And get some steel bones for the front. The kit is all aluminum bones. I run 46mm EvoIV steel bones up front with my MRE spool.
Springs, what ever you want. I run Tamiya, Hara, HPI, XRay, and AE springs.
Also visit TryHards website for the "Need to know" section on the 416.
I would also buy the EvoV or LW Short arm set. That's all I run right now. The LW Long might be better for low traction tracks. Everything else I would use LWS.
Of course pick up spare spindles and rear hubs. I do not see the need for aluminum hubs. But if that's your thing, go for it. The extra hole might be nice. But I prefer a lighter suspension. And get some spare inner hinge pins.
One nice thing to have too is spare steering tie~rods. They can bend or break easy in a wreck. Switch to Ti ones if you can. Or just carry a spare set with you.
Thats all you really need. Maybe a spare bumper with extra body posts. And some different suspension blocks. 1E, 1D (416 version if you can), 1C (maybe 2), 1XA. You can even get a spare 1B (416 version) and 1A (416 version) if you want.
Get the spool when it comes out for Mod along with some spare outdrives for the spool. And get some steel bones for the front. The kit is all aluminum bones. I run 46mm EvoIV steel bones up front with my MRE spool.
Springs, what ever you want. I run Tamiya, Hara, HPI, XRay, and AE springs.
Also visit TryHards website for the "Need to know" section on the 416.
is it better to use the stock arms than use the Short LWT arms in a low to medium grip track? thanks
04-03-2008, 04:11 AM
#1775
spool + asphalt + foam
i remembering asking whether a spool will be good for asphalt foam tires... and majority said no.. dont even go near..
but after talking to 2 people who runs mod at our local track. he said that spool and foams are the way to go.. it will take corners faster and better. i wonder now if thats really the case and if i should get a front spool to try
but after talking to 2 people who runs mod at our local track. he said that spool and foams are the way to go.. it will take corners faster and better. i wonder now if thats really the case and if i should get a front spool to try
04-03-2008, 04:29 AM
#1776
If your track has alot of sweepers and fast corners, the spool will be great. Tons of steering. But if it's tight with a lot of 180's and slow corners, a diff might actually be better as it'll offer more mid corner steering than the spool. But a little less steering in the sweepers and fast corners. If the track has a lot of traction, oneways will be great. I remember running asphalt with foams years and years ago with a oneway.
04-03-2008, 04:39 AM
#1777
Tech Rookie
bigbutstupid - go with diff up front with some heavy lube (losi brown) and make the diff pretty tight almost locked. you will have better entry and mid corner steering and it will pull like a spool coming out of the turn. something to try.
04-03-2008, 04:48 AM
#1778
Ive been reading this thread over the last few months and its very interesting to say the least.Having read about the minor problem with the chubs up front its got me wondering if tamiya have adressed the problem and if so how long before the new improved chubs from tamiya will be released.
I see that many of you experienced TRF drivers are using aluminum chubs from 3racing and square rc.The thing that has me concerned with aluminium front chubs is that they can bend in the event of an argument with the boards where as plastic would just snap etc.Unless your an engineer or have a keen eye for these things you would never notice a slight bend in the ally chub.This would then lead to handling problems and diagnosing the problem. Until you realize its the ally chub that has bent.
Damn i hope that makes sense!
I see that many of you experienced TRF drivers are using aluminum chubs from 3racing and square rc.The thing that has me concerned with aluminium front chubs is that they can bend in the event of an argument with the boards where as plastic would just snap etc.Unless your an engineer or have a keen eye for these things you would never notice a slight bend in the ally chub.This would then lead to handling problems and diagnosing the problem. Until you realize its the ally chub that has bent.
Damn i hope that makes sense!
04-03-2008, 04:59 AM
#1779
Makes perfect sense. And this is something to consider with any aluminum part. I keep track of my chubs by aligning up the top of the chub with the bottom of the chub to see if it has moved and/or still parallel. But another option is to use the caster block function on some setup stations. Just line it up with the king pins and you can read your caster to see if it has changed. So if you are going to check your camber and toe with a setup station. Why not check your caster as well. 
04-03-2008, 11:03 AM
#1780
I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the massive number of Tamiya parts available out there. So... someone help me out here with part numbers. If I wanted to convert my stock 416 to use a suspension system (and other parts?) like the TRF guys are running, what would I need? I believe they're running short arms or something? Do I need different drive shafts and such?
04-03-2008, 12:15 PM
#1781
I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the massive number of Tamiya parts available out there. So... someone help me out here with part numbers. If I wanted to convert my stock 416 to use a suspension system (and other parts?) like the TRF guys are running, what would I need? I believe they're running short arms or something? Do I need different drive shafts and such?
Only extra parts to get would be the suspension blocks, although that seems to have been altered a little recently with C/C and XA/E being the favoured block setup.
So parts required...
2x TAM53928 Short LWT Arms
1x TAM51067 1C Block
1x TAM53808 1XA Block
1x TAM53896 1E Block
1x 401016 Serpent 3.0 block (for front rear position)
Otherwise, it all fits
Ed
04-03-2008, 01:05 PM
#1782
Awesome Ed, thank you! I'm going to setup my second car like the TRF guys are, and keep the first one with the setup that's be doing well for me. I'm hoping to try IIC this year, and would like to try the different setups back-to-back to see which one works better for me.
Not at all, as the arms are a direct replacement for the ones used on the kit, and work fine with all the other parts. Might need to shave a little material of the right rear driveshaft blade (if it touches the diff nut), but thats it.
Only extra parts to get would be the suspension blocks, although that seems to have been altered a little recently with C/C and XA/E being the favoured block setup.
So parts required...
2x TAM53928 Short LWT Arms
1x TAM51067 1C Block
1x TAM53808 1XA Block
1x TAM53896 1E Block
1x 401016 Serpent 3.0 block (for front rear position)
Otherwise, it all fits
Ed
Only extra parts to get would be the suspension blocks, although that seems to have been altered a little recently with C/C and XA/E being the favoured block setup.
So parts required...
2x TAM53928 Short LWT Arms
1x TAM51067 1C Block
1x TAM53808 1XA Block
1x TAM53896 1E Block
1x 401016 Serpent 3.0 block (for front rear position)
Otherwise, it all fits
Ed
04-03-2008, 04:01 PM
#1783
If your track has alot of sweepers and fast corners, the spool will be great. Tons of steering. But if it's tight with a lot of 180's and slow corners, a diff might actually be better as it'll offer more mid corner steering than the spool. But a little less steering in the sweepers and fast corners. If the track has a lot of traction, oneways will be great. I remember running asphalt with foams years and years ago with a oneway.
