dynamic_e

iTrader: (56)

For those of you who have tried the Yeah Racing one piece motor mount, how is it? I dont race TCS, but wanted to put the F103 pods back on but then heard of the rear pod breakage on the plastic side. The one piece looks perfect. Any issues fitting a brushless in there? Any opinions on the weird pivot t bar they have for it as well?

dynamic_e

iTrader: (56)

This car rocks, ran it off a Tekin 21.5 with a XERun Spec ESC and the Tamiya HBR Premounts and my laptimes were only .5 off my pace with World GT 13.5.

A quick Q, I am running on carpet, car is a 15th anniversary with the TRF shock. When held up in the air, car does not go into full droop(because of the tbar?) and when I pull the rear down, the shock fullly extends. I am used to link cars, not T bar, so is this ok? Also, the pd is currently dry, should I put some dill fluid in there? What does that friction pad do, dampen the system or slow the suspension movement?

Sorry, total noob at T bar cars.

madjack

iTrader: (28)

*Sounds like you may have spacers in your TRF shock or the t-bar o-rings (rear) are pretty tight. Adding spacers to limit droop will increase your steering on high bite tracks with the F1.

Adding lube to the friction pad will slow the reaction of the chassis. I think most run the pads dry, I have tried 3k to 6k lube on the pads with some success.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Really, you should be more concerned with how much droop you have as you raise the car off of a table or setup board. Do you have any droop at all? It also should not flop down like there is nothing there. How high does the chassis get before the rear tires lift?

Also, it's gonna depend on how much traction you get at your track to make a selection of damper plate fluid. I'd pick something like 10K or 15K diff oil and just see how the car acts. It's going to be more reactive when you go harder on the fluid. You can also go too light, and have the car sort of get twisted up. If there is too much traction, and too light of dampening, the car will like traction roll, but it's a weird mid corner snap usually in a 180* corner. The chassis just rolls too far.
If you're too thick, the car might do a little mid corner shuffle/slide, and also be hard to drive.

dynamic_e

iTrader: (56)

Ok, ride height is 3mm all around, measured at the end of the front plate, I can pull it up 6mm before the tires come off the ground.

Traction(now that the carpet is cold) is medium. I am experiencing some uneven wear on the front tires, more wear on the left then the right. The track does have more right hand turns. I think I should rotate them every other run maybe to even out the wear?

On the t plate, I tightened the rear screw so it's not loose, but there is still room for movement.

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

103 Gurus, do you prefer the stock kingpin or the option RD Special Kingpin set? I can't see the steering knuckles sliding up and down on the kinpins being better, it seems to me there would be more bind.

crashingbird

iTrader: (1)

Got some F103 tire questions.

What's the difference between :

Tamiya F103 Sponge Tires C (3630, Front) #84094 (normal type)

Tamiya F103 HBR Medium Sponge Tires C (3630, Front) #84096 (butyl type)


same q for the rear tires, I have to use Tamiya foam for TC rules, so these are the 2 choices.

There's also a premounted Tamiya foamtire, but I find those too expensive, I'll use both types as above mentioned.


Can I use both on tarmac and carpet , or is there one type that is only for carpet ? (like in 12th scale, the 'exotic' or synthetic rubber type is only for indoor carpet, and the 'natural' rubber foam can be used on both types of track)

thx
Kurt

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

The combo that you want is gonna be 84095 rear (super soft, very much like the premounts) and the 84096 HBR Medium fronts.
Perfect combo. I live on those for asphalt and carpet, just vary the sauce techique for the fronts (or none at all in some instances).
Clean foams every run is key. Motor spray, lighter fluid or...

The 84094 fronts are soft and you will never get the rear end hooked up if those are on.

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

I was a die hard "spring under" guy until this weekend.

With the springs on top of the knuckle, the car felt more consistent.
I had zero problems with the knuckles coming back to center.
Also, with the grub screws you can use up your old worn out knuckles
as they will now be nice and snug on the kingpin.
Another plus is if you shave your knuckles for ride height you can shim and
set the grub screw and not have to worry about the pin rubbing on the rim.
Giving it a thumbs up .

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

Live by those words.
Also the hard or type c fronts (if you can find them) work really good on high
grip carpet.
rc4less has front foams that are about the same hardness as the tammy med. fronts.

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

Anyone have an idea what #rate or dia.rate(example assoc. .020) the tamiya black front springs are?
I have a pile of springs in front of me from old oval days and need front springs for the 103's.

chinaman

Ballistic will fit the motor mount.

PaintVagrant

iTrader: (6)

So I think Im getting my RIDE soft compounds to break in finally on my carpet track, but I had a question about the rear tires specifically. The inserts that came with the tires are super thin, and very dense. The fronts had a spongey white foam, the rears had this greyish foam that was no more than maybe 4 or 5mm thick. Is that normal? The tires seem basically soft to the point of feeling hollow on the rear, and Im wondering if there was some sort of upgrade insert or something I should have put in there?

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

The Ride and the Shimizu rear tires do run the thin inserts and you end up with an air gap and this is normal. The tires do work like this.

PaintVagrant

iTrader: (6)

Thanks man, appreciate the info.