9LikesTamiya F103 Forum
03-24-2010, 02:48 PM
#1082
03-24-2010, 09:14 PM
#1083
A little help here, unfortunately while getting my F103 ready for it's first run, I managed to snap the screw on the left hand sid wheel stopper. The bolt that holds the wheel on...Yes I tightend to the wheel nut just a little too much. I am having a hard time finding the part, but have found the F104 dif set on Tower. I am actually about to place an order with them anyway, and was wondering if this set: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXRA4&P=Z is a direct fit and an upgrade? Or should I keep looking for the part I brok which is: 53248
But you still need the left wheel stopper so the diff doesnt do you any good.
03-25-2010, 03:05 AM
#1084
Tech Adept
Zen tyres (F1-R35B) for a shore 35 foam rear tyre (tyre+rim). F1-F35B for a front tyre etcetera.
If you change your rear axel to a GT,
ZAC tyres (ZW-9121) for a shore 37 foam rear tyre (tyre+rim).
Track width is still maintained at 200mm as the rim has an offset, more for the rear.
Both available from RCChamp in Japan by special order.
http://tabata.jp/zac/products/zac_tire_10.html
Why would you change to a GT rear axel?
In the wet, I use touring car wet tyres : ) only down side is that your ride height is at best 9mm. I race my F103 in a GT class, or at least I try to as I am up against Associateds and CRC. ; )
I have been using tyres from the 2nd table down in the list, (shore 35-40) 30mm fronts and 40mm rears, and they are very good even for temps below 20°C (unsure what it is in °F) but I have not used them in, I presume hot temps in Florida, but they are rated for shore 42? Whatever that comes to ...
03-25-2010, 12:50 PM
#1085
Tech Regular
iTrader: (47)
The F104 diff will work on your F103 and it is a better diff as it doesnt use a thrust bearing,but you need a shorter axle. Either cut yours down or order the F104 axle.The uses three bearings instead of the two in the F103 diff making it smoother, Also you can take the wheel off without looseing the diff.
But you still need the left wheel stopper so the diff doesnt do you any good.
But you still need the left wheel stopper so the diff doesnt do you any good.
03-25-2010, 01:17 PM
#1086
Yes. The axle from left to right needs to be from the 104, or the 103. You can't inchange them.
03-25-2010, 01:21 PM
#1087
hi can any1 tell me what parts are needed to convert F103rm to F103gt?
03-25-2010, 01:33 PM
#1088
It would be easier simply to trade your F103 for a F103GT since F1 is getting bigger now.
03-25-2010, 01:48 PM
#1089
03-25-2010, 02:02 PM
#1090
03-25-2010, 02:03 PM
#1091
you need loads of parts
i wanted to change my F103GT to a F1 car
it was cheaper to order an F103 15th Anniverasy and sell the F103gt
chassis , front suspension , hubs , rear drive . . . . . . these are all differant
i wanted to change my F103GT to a F1 car
it was cheaper to order an F103 15th Anniverasy and sell the F103gt
chassis , front suspension , hubs , rear drive . . . . . . these are all differant
03-25-2010, 02:16 PM
#1092
I have a F103GT for sale if you are interested,
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-part-2-a.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-part-2-a.html
03-25-2010, 02:48 PM
#1093
Tech Adept
I have a F103GT for sale if you are interested,
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-part-2-a.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-part-2-a.html
03-25-2010, 03:12 PM
#1094
Tech Adept
You need GT front knuckles and axel, the 2 bearings that you have currently in your front RM wheels can still be used in the GT knuckles. It will be in the knuckles instead of the rim. And a pair of 12mm hex wheel adaptor with the pin.
For the rear, left side,
You will need a GT left wheel mount adaptor. You will still need to use your existing 16mm spacer.
For the right rear,
You will need a GT diff joint, diff housing A & B, part no R3 from the GT (58367) manual and GT right wheel mount adaptor. The 3 1280 bearings in your RM will still need to be used. I still use my thrust bearings. You will also need to use the 2 spring washers and some spacer and an extra wheel nut to tighten the thrust bearings. The wheel mount goes on top of that so the next time you change your rear wheels you do not need to undo the thrust bearings.
I am using a 3 Racing diff housing which uses 2 parts instead of the 4 that Tamiya uses ... and all aluminium as well.
Will get a picture of my LM converted rear to show you.
Then you can decide to run a TC shell with your TC tyres or get ZAC foam tyres and still use your F1 shell to run it as a F1 car (track width 200mm.
It will cost you more than if you were to get a second hand GT car.
If you are as pedantic as I am, I got all my parts after-market and the only original part on my LM is the chassis, bumper, friction plate and damper. The rest are either 3 Racing or Yeah Racing from RCMart in Hong Kong.
03-25-2010, 07:54 PM
#1095
It is not a tedius task ...
You need GT front knuckles and axel, the 2 bearings that you have currently in your front RM wheels can still be used in the GT knuckles. It will be in the knuckles instead of the rim. And a pair of 12mm hex wheel adaptor with the pin.
For the rear, left side,
You will need a GT left wheel mount adaptor. You will still need to use your existing 16mm spacer.
For the right rear,
You will need a GT diff joint, diff housing A & B, part no R3 from the GT (58367) manual and GT right wheel mount adaptor. The 3 1280 bearings in your RM will still need to be used. I still use my thrust bearings. You will also need to use the 2 spring washers and some spacer and an extra wheel nut to tighten the thrust bearings. The wheel mount goes on top of that so the next time you change your rear wheels you do not need to undo the thrust bearings.
I am using a 3 Racing diff housing which uses 2 parts instead of the 4 that Tamiya uses ... and all aluminium as well.
Will get a picture of my LM converted rear to show you.
Then you can decide to run a TC shell with your TC tyres or get ZAC foam tyres and still use your F1 shell to run it as a F1 car (track width 200mm.
It will cost you more than if you were to get a second hand GT car.
If you are as pedantic as I am, I got all my parts after-market and the only original part on my LM is the chassis, bumper, friction plate and damper. The rest are either 3 Racing or Yeah Racing from RCMart in Hong Kong.
You need GT front knuckles and axel, the 2 bearings that you have currently in your front RM wheels can still be used in the GT knuckles. It will be in the knuckles instead of the rim. And a pair of 12mm hex wheel adaptor with the pin.
For the rear, left side,
You will need a GT left wheel mount adaptor. You will still need to use your existing 16mm spacer.
For the right rear,
You will need a GT diff joint, diff housing A & B, part no R3 from the GT (58367) manual and GT right wheel mount adaptor. The 3 1280 bearings in your RM will still need to be used. I still use my thrust bearings. You will also need to use the 2 spring washers and some spacer and an extra wheel nut to tighten the thrust bearings. The wheel mount goes on top of that so the next time you change your rear wheels you do not need to undo the thrust bearings.
I am using a 3 Racing diff housing which uses 2 parts instead of the 4 that Tamiya uses ... and all aluminium as well.
Will get a picture of my LM converted rear to show you.
Then you can decide to run a TC shell with your TC tyres or get ZAC foam tyres and still use your F1 shell to run it as a F1 car (track width 200mm.
It will cost you more than if you were to get a second hand GT car.
If you are as pedantic as I am, I got all my parts after-market and the only original part on my LM is the chassis, bumper, friction plate and damper. The rest are either 3 Racing or Yeah Racing from RCMart in Hong Kong.
What about the chassis? does it need to be changed (I am running F103RM).